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Old 09-09-2005, 08:37 PM   #4336
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Gary looking forward to it. See ya later wont be racing for about 2 months or more until all the loose ends in the big move to the sunshine state is finished but at least I won't miss the cold
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Old 09-11-2005, 08:04 PM   #4337
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Gary, you have a PM.
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Old 09-11-2005, 08:34 PM   #4338
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Wow it has been quiet around here, i guess everybody is preping for races.
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Old 09-12-2005, 07:55 AM   #4339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracingkid
Wow it has been quiet around here, i guess everybody is preping for races.
Or matching batteries..

Just wanted to let everyone know we just finished processing our last batch of 3300s EVER! We've got about 70 packs of various voltages in stock, so if you need them for ROAR events get them before they're gone!
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Old 09-12-2005, 06:39 PM   #4340
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hay kt and mike

i did well this past weekend at the big M.D charity race car is getting better
i q 9th in the a-main and finshed 4th , gary them packs was killer bud.


mike i got the motors send me a mail to send

grasshooper out
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Old 09-12-2005, 07:49 PM   #4341
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Bill Nice running!

I sent you a pm on rctech a few days back, if you didn't see it or want an email instead, shoot me mail at: [email protected] ....Thanks
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Old 09-13-2005, 06:09 AM   #4342
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Good run Bill. Glad to see the car is working out.
KT
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Old 09-13-2005, 06:52 AM   #4343
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thanks guys ok mike got it
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Old 09-13-2005, 08:24 AM   #4344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorhead
hay kt and mike

i did well this past weekend at the big M.D charity race car is getting better
i q 9th in the a-main and finshed 4th , gary them packs was killer bud.


mike i got the motors send me a mail to send

grasshooper out
Great run, Bill!! Keep it going....
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Old 09-13-2005, 08:25 AM   #4345
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How about some info on the 3700's, do they like being deadshorted like the 33's, same charge amps and cutback. Getting ready to get some for the upcoming carpet season and would just like to know.
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Old 09-13-2005, 09:19 AM   #4346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJ1
How about some info on the 3700's, do they like being deadshorted like the 33's, same charge amps and cutback. Getting ready to get some for the upcoming carpet season and would just like to know.
Same thing as 3300s for the most part -- Tray them 0v, DS them, charge at a high amperage, no peak if possible...
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Old 09-13-2005, 11:38 AM   #4347
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Thanks Gary, just wanted to make sure.
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Old 09-13-2005, 12:00 PM   #4348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghuber
Same thing as 3300s for the most part -- Tray them 0v, DS them, charge at a high amperage, no peak if possible...

Won't this kill the pack if done wrong or charged to high? Kinda weird sounding to me. No peak? Are you trying to sell more packs???LOL
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Old 09-13-2005, 12:39 PM   #4349
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Lana... I'm assuming by your post count that your are either new to RC in general or just new to RCTech. Trying searching a bit and see if you can find more detail suggestions for charging on this thread and some of the battery matcher threads.

Gary is not trying to sell more packs. He is refering to a charging method that works well in competative race situations. Gary was just giving a quick, paraphrased discription of competative level charging methods.

Charging at high amps needs to be done in such a way that the pack does NOT peak at over 130-135F. Going hotter will definately damage your cells. Many of the newer chargers use a temp monitor for cutuffs in addition to the standard delta-peak/threshold method.

Deadshorting also takes away a small portion of your runtime in favor of better voltage and lower IR. You have to bring the packs down to 0v with something that does cells individualy so you don't reverse cells. Like a 0-30 integy discharger or any of the various 0v discharge treys. Once at 0v you can deadshort safely.

When charging you remove the DS wire and let the pack rest for 5-10 minutes to let it recover a bit before starting the charge. You can charge at anywhere from 6-12amps depending on the race situation and assuming you can get the charger to stop/peak before the packs go over 135F. Higher rates do actually reduce the life of a pack slightly but if your racing at higher levels it gets you that bit of extra voltage and lower IR needed to compete.

For the best performance from your packs you'll want the charge to finish right before you go out to race. That's when they will have the best punch. If you let the pack cool for a long time and repeak you'll only get good punch out of the pack for the first few seconds of the run. It's better to run the pack right after the initial high amp charge with it's still up around 135F.

All this advice assumes you are running stock or 19t or similar class where high voltage and low IR make more difference than run time on a pack. This is not suggested for MOD.

Hope that helps,
bob
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Old 09-13-2005, 03:49 PM   #4350
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I would agree with everything that Bob said but stress that this is NOT for Mod racing. I currently have packs for both stock/19t AND Mod. They are totally different race situations so they require different things from your batteries. The fact of the matter is that todays motors can not handle todays batteries. When the Jump to NiMh was made that was much greater than the jump from the motors 5 years ago to today. I mean I still have a motor that is from 2000 that is very fast even by new motor standards. (GM 10-3, it just rips).

In the end, it all comes down to do you want to compete at the highest level or just be competing in general. Thats where the research, equipment and money all come in.
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