Team ORCA USA Discussion Thread
#1006
Tech Addict
iTrader: (23)
Please email [email protected] about your esc problem.
Sounds like the CPU board have problem. Also cc me when you contact them
My email is [email protected]
Sounds like the CPU board have problem. Also cc me when you contact them
My email is [email protected]
#1007
Tech Regular
Orca r32x
Ran my 2nd orca r32x for the first time today and had a problem car was fine for practice session but for the qualifying car did 4 laps and cruised to a holt.
no power going to rx that is fine,but when you turn it back on the light comes on blue and red two quick flashes then one long one.
Anyone else have this go ran orca since vxx and had the vx3 which I had to run but just wondering if this is a known fault..
Thanks
no power going to rx that is fine,but when you turn it back on the light comes on blue and red two quick flashes then one long one.
Anyone else have this go ran orca since vxx and had the vx3 which I had to run but just wondering if this is a known fault..
Thanks
#1008
Dear Orca or anyone:
In fact i am looking to purchase B32 esc to run 21.5 and 17.5 blinky tc.
Whenever i downloaded their manual then try to understand how it works then appeared something that i want to be clarified:
What is the difference of punch and punch fine tune?
In case i run 21.5 and 17.5 blinky tc in ETS carpet, could recommend me initial setting:
Punch setting
Brake 3step setting
Best regards
In fact i am looking to purchase B32 esc to run 21.5 and 17.5 blinky tc.
Whenever i downloaded their manual then try to understand how it works then appeared something that i want to be clarified:
What is the difference of punch and punch fine tune?
In case i run 21.5 and 17.5 blinky tc in ETS carpet, could recommend me initial setting:
Punch setting
Brake 3step setting
Best regards
Last edited by mac853; 04-23-2018 at 02:07 PM.
#1009
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Dear Orca or anyone:
In fact i am looking to purchase B32 esc to run 21.5 and 17.5 blinky tc.
Whenever i downloaded their manual then try to understand how it works then appeared something that i want to be clarified:
What is the difference of punch and punch fine tune?
In case i run 21.5 and 17.5 blinky tc in ETS carpet, could recommend me initial setting:
Punch setting
Brake 3step setting
Best regards
In fact i am looking to purchase B32 esc to run 21.5 and 17.5 blinky tc.
Whenever i downloaded their manual then try to understand how it works then appeared something that i want to be clarified:
What is the difference of punch and punch fine tune?
In case i run 21.5 and 17.5 blinky tc in ETS carpet, could recommend me initial setting:
Punch setting
Brake 3step setting
Best regards
#1010
What is going on with the 25.5T Blitreme edition motor? Ridiculous in how long it takes to release this one.
#1011
#1012
Seems to be out and available, eg. at RC-KleinKram (1 in stock)...? This not the one? Or what other kind of "release" are you talking about?
#1013
*Edit
The 25.5's will not be happening for NA
The 25.5's will not be happening for NA
Last edited by DaSilva3525; 05-20-2018 at 06:15 PM.
#1015
I haven't run a track that size but I can maybe lend some info..
On the endbell between 44-46.5 degrees is usually peak efficient and runs strong and keeps cool. Seems anything above that the motor heats up much to quick. Indoors I usually run a 4.4 FDR with a strong running car, Start with a 4.2-4.3 FDR for that outdoor track and run the alum screws for some nice rpm gains. See where it stands and go gear from there sir.
On the endbell between 44-46.5 degrees is usually peak efficient and runs strong and keeps cool. Seems anything above that the motor heats up much to quick. Indoors I usually run a 4.4 FDR with a strong running car, Start with a 4.2-4.3 FDR for that outdoor track and run the alum screws for some nice rpm gains. See where it stands and go gear from there sir.
#1016
Tech Regular
I have read back through this thread but can't find the info I'm after. Some posts have some of the info but not all (eg timing and FDR but not ESC and class). Also this sub-forum is in the onroad but I can't find a comparable one in the offroad...
I have just bought a B32 and Blitreme 17.5T for my Kyosho Lazer 4wd buggy and have some questions. I have been racing just over a year so some of this will be basic, also I dont have a motor analyser.
Timing - it looks like around 48deg is a good place to start? Seems to be in the middle of suggested ranges, is that about right?
FDR is currenlty 6.5 which was right for the Trackstar Turbo 80a and v1 Trackstar motor (I know, but cheap and cheerful to get me started!). I'm picking I can got for a lower FDR/higher gearing with the new Blitreme? What are others running for a mid sized clay track? (Club runs 8th and 10th scale) I have a range of spurs and pinions so can finetune based on motor temps, but need the start point.
I see people mention changing the screws to ones with a different material for higher rpm? Really? Whats with that, and why wouldn't Orca have just supplied the better ones to start with? Is it a tradeoff for higher rpm/less torque like changing the rotor or magic or what?
I have just bought a B32 and Blitreme 17.5T for my Kyosho Lazer 4wd buggy and have some questions. I have been racing just over a year so some of this will be basic, also I dont have a motor analyser.
Timing - it looks like around 48deg is a good place to start? Seems to be in the middle of suggested ranges, is that about right?
FDR is currenlty 6.5 which was right for the Trackstar Turbo 80a and v1 Trackstar motor (I know, but cheap and cheerful to get me started!). I'm picking I can got for a lower FDR/higher gearing with the new Blitreme? What are others running for a mid sized clay track? (Club runs 8th and 10th scale) I have a range of spurs and pinions so can finetune based on motor temps, but need the start point.
I see people mention changing the screws to ones with a different material for higher rpm? Really? Whats with that, and why wouldn't Orca have just supplied the better ones to start with? Is it a tradeoff for higher rpm/less torque like changing the rotor or magic or what?
#1017
#1018
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
There was a super gt 17.5T blinky race at my local track and I thought I'll give the new blitreme motor a try.
Our race limit the kV rating of our motors to 2400kV, the lowest I can get my motor was 2580kV. It came 31xxkV out if the box which was the same as some 13.5t motor. Needless to say I can't use that motor for the race...Seems like I wasted money on it.
Our race limit the kV rating of our motors to 2400kV, the lowest I can get my motor was 2580kV. It came 31xxkV out if the box which was the same as some 13.5t motor. Needless to say I can't use that motor for the race...Seems like I wasted money on it.
#1019
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I haven't run a track that size but I can maybe lend some info..
On the endbell between 44-46.5 degrees is usually peak efficient and runs strong and keeps cool. Seems anything above that the motor heats up much to quick. Indoors I usually run a 4.4 FDR with a strong running car, Start with a 4.2-4.3 FDR for that outdoor track and run the alum screws for some nice rpm gains. See where it stands and go gear from there sir.
On the endbell between 44-46.5 degrees is usually peak efficient and runs strong and keeps cool. Seems anything above that the motor heats up much to quick. Indoors I usually run a 4.4 FDR with a strong running car, Start with a 4.2-4.3 FDR for that outdoor track and run the alum screws for some nice rpm gains. See where it stands and go gear from there sir.
At the next club race I experimented a bit more with the information you guys provided. I started the day at 4.0 at 50° and had TQ after round 1. Motor temps were also lower around 160°F but it was also cooler that day. For next round I lowered the timing to about 45-46° and geared at 4.0. I did not set a new TQ but was still able to stay in the lead the whole race. For round 3, I tried 3.8 and left the timing alone. I was on pace to set a new TQ but ran into some traffic which dropped me back a bit. Motor temp was around 140-150°F too so I decided to leave the gearing as it is going into the mains. The only thing I have noticed is that on the 180 ft straight, the cars with R1 motors have more RPM and will close the gap on me by the end of the straight. Maybe next time I'll try going up a few teeth on the pinion to 3.7 or 3.6 as this is getting closer to what I had my TSR motor geared at.
#1020
Nice info, thanks for the feedback. Do you have the both the end bell and the alum stator screws? If not there is some nice rpm to be had there as well for a small fee