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Old 08-08-2017, 07:03 PM   #886
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Is that an official email address for factory repair?
Yes. AboutRC is the importer of ORCA in North America and Canada. They can get your unit diagnosed and repaired.
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Old 08-12-2017, 04:14 PM   #887
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Interesting, so as I bought it from Europe by AMainHobbies, they should be able to repair?
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:38 PM   #888
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Interesting, so as I bought it from Europe by AMainHobbies, they should be able to repair?
They will repair if they can or give you a slight discount on a new one. I have had two esc's replaced.
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Old 08-14-2017, 11:22 AM   #889
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I tried the new R32 esc this past weekend. I am very impressed...better brake than my LRP flow and HW XR10 Pro. I also tried the RT 21.5 motor at tamiya track driving a FWD car. It keeps up with any motor out there with FDR 3.6 at Full timing. I still need to work on my RT 17.5 for GT2 class. Awesome stuff!!
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Old 08-26-2017, 05:23 PM   #890
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hello.

on my orca r32 the compress setting is set at 10% as a default in blinky mode.. does 10% compress mean that the throttle is more aggressive/sensitive at the bottom then if i set compress to 0%? or is it the other way around? (10% compress is less aggressive/sensitive at the starting point of the throttle then 0% compress)



my current setup is a tad aggressive because i had to go to a higher fdr because of temp in the motor and i wondered if i should turn off compress to get a smoother throttle at the first initial throttle point, with the higher fdr.
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Old 08-27-2017, 08:26 AM   #891
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hello.

on my orca r32 the compress setting is set at 10% as a default in blinky mode.. does 10% compress mean that the throttle is more aggressive/sensitive at the bottom then if i set compress to 0%? or is it the other way around? (10% compress is less aggressive/sensitive at the starting point of the throttle then 0% compress)



my current setup is a tad aggressive because i had to go to a higher fdr because of temp in the motor and i wondered if i should turn off compress to get a smoother throttle at the first initial throttle point, with the higher fdr.
The higher the number on compress, the more aggressive. I'm at 15% currently, in stock touring car. I just ran these speed controls yesterday, with a focus on brakes, and trying to get more punch/power out of he car mid to top end.

My settings (for those interested):

Punch levels all max
No drag brake
Brake frequency 800hz
Brake settings otherwise max values
Pwm typically 6-6.5, however I ended at 8500.

I think that's all. Any questions-ask away!
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Old 08-27-2017, 10:46 AM   #892
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The higher the number on compress, the more aggressive. I'm at 15% currently, in stock touring car. I just ran these speed controls yesterday, with a focus on brakes, and trying to get more punch/power out of he car mid to top end.

My settings (for those interested):

Punch levels all max
No drag brake
Brake frequency 800hz
Brake settings otherwise max values
Pwm typically 6-6.5, however I ended at 8500.

I think that's all. Any questions-ask away!
thanks

but if you want more mid to top end you should go higher in pwm right?

to my understanding higher pwm is smoother bottom end and more mid/top end power.
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Old 08-27-2017, 01:45 PM   #893
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Yes, but keep in mind that also can raise your motor temps. So, play with gearing and can timing as well. I personally haven't gone higher than 8500 right now.
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Old 08-27-2017, 02:38 PM   #894
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Hey guys,

Running the vx3 1s esc with a 4.5t in 12th mod down in NZ and am new to this class, We don't run tire additive on our foams.... Anyone have a good start out esc set up, ideally don't want it too aggressive on take off, and good brakes without over braking, much appreciated
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Old 08-27-2017, 03:36 PM   #895
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Yes, but keep in mind that also can raise your motor temps. So, play with gearing and can timing as well. I personally haven't gone higher than 8500 right now.
i am not trying to be an smart ass...

but i think you mean it can raise your esc temps..not the motor..i think the motor is working less with higher pwm and the r32 has easy work in blinky racing even with high pwm so no problem for the motor turning up pwm..
( i have never been over 50c on the r32 and vx3 in 13.5t blinky with 32000pwm)

the motor is often cooler after i set higher pwm..(i did this yesterday.. i used 12500pwm and turned it up to 32000pwm and the motor temp went down 5c)

that is my experience anyway..
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Old 08-27-2017, 06:36 PM   #896
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Originally Posted by magstaff View Post
i am not trying to be an smart ass...

but i think you mean it can raise your esc temps..not the motor..i think the motor is working less with higher pwm and the r32 has easy work in blinky racing even with high pwm so no problem for the motor turning up pwm..
( i have never been over 50c on the r32 and vx3 in 13.5t blinky with 32000pwm)

the motor is often cooler after i set higher pwm..(i did this yesterday.. i used 12500pwm and turned it up to 32000pwm and the motor temp went down 5c)

that is my experience anyway..
This will be added to my list of things to try. I did try 10000 pwm but felt 8500 was better. Maybe I need to wick it waaay up and try maybe 20000 pwm just to see.
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Old 09-10-2017, 01:34 PM   #897
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Has anybody already had a problem withe the r32 response to throttle?

The ESC is working properly, accelerating, "boosting", "turboing" but the problems start when the car is stopped. From that point, impossible to make it move. The lights are blinking, it seems to respond but nothing is moving.

It looks like a sensor problem, but it happened today after one run, nothing special, fans over the esc and over the motor, I don't understand. I've tried to exchange my Fantom motor for a Schuur one and I got the exact same behaviour. Same with a new sensor cable...

Is this a known problem? Do you think my R32 fried? Could it be a problem with SSR or SHR? That would be strange as I changed nothing but the battery (I also tried with the first one just to be sure but nothing)
Same exact thing happened to mine. Practiced for about four minutes, walked off driver stand and pulled throttle to bring my car to me and Nothing. Thought it was a sensor board or cable. Change to a new cable and put in a different motor and still nothing. I Could get it running if I pushed started it while hold throttle but once I stopped no response. I put in my Vx3 and no problems. I tried recalibration with the radio and esc and there were no audible beeps on mine. I could see the lights flash though when I did brakes and throttle. I have it in blinkymode and it does flash.
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Old 09-10-2017, 02:00 PM   #898
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Try updating your programmer card and esc to the latest firmware version first.
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:25 AM   #899
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Originally Posted by Berrystrong View Post
Same exact thing happened to mine. Practiced for about four minutes, walked off driver stand and pulled throttle to bring my car to me and Nothing. Thought it was a sensor board or cable. Change to a new cable and put in a different motor and still nothing. I Could get it running if I pushed started it while hold throttle but once I stopped no response. I put in my Vx3 and no problems. I tried recalibration with the radio and esc and there were no audible beeps on mine. I could see the lights flash though when I did brakes and throttle. I have it in blinkymode and it does flash.
Give it a push start and see if it goes after that.

I had the same issue, and sent it in for repairs.
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Old 09-18-2017, 10:56 PM   #900
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Well this sucks, one of the VX3 I have just randomly died for no reason. It was working one weekend and stopped the next. Turning on the ESC spins the ESC fan, but doesnt power the receiver, servo or anything else plugged into the servo. Made sure the servo lead was plugged in correctly and the signal wires goes where it should....nada. I did a sniff test to see if it let the magic smoke out but I smell nothing.

Took a multimeter and tried to take a reading on the leads and it wasnt reading a whole lot, around 0.1v. Plugging in the program box and nothing happens. The ESC gets a bit warm if I leave the battery plugged and not turned on. Baffled, I took the ESC apart to check the PCB boards and cannot find any visible signs of electronics being fried.

Kind of sucks these ESC just randomly dies. Theres no point for me sending it in as well, Its been of warranty for a while and from what Ive heard, ESC manufactures dont even bother trying to fix their ESC. They just swap out whatever is broken or give you a brand new one for a fee. Ill just patiently wait for the R32X to come out and see what kind of discount they will give to R32 owners.
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