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Old 08-21-2016, 12:04 PM
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Default 13.5 The One Rollout Question

Hello all. I have a question regarding the TSR 13.5 The One. I am using it in our 13.5 Pro Oval Pan Car class / Boosted. The motor is set aprox two lines past -5* on the endbell w/ 12.5 4 line rotor, and 51 Speed Control timing. Runline is 144' medium/high bite old grey carpet. What rollout would you recommend. Any additional information Is greatly appreciated. Thank you
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by RC4413 View Post
Hello all. I have a question regarding the TSR 13.5 The One. I am using it in our 13.5 Pro Oval Pan Car class / Boosted. The motor is set aprox two lines past -5* on the endbell w/ 12.5 4 line rotor, and 51 Speed Control timing. Runline is 144' medium/high bite old grey carpet. What rollout would you recommend. Any additional information Is greatly appreciated. Thank you
Start around a 3.2 and see where temps and fade are. In 13.5 open we've seen less motor timing with approx. 50* esc and more gear and rotor has been better. You may end up way taller gear, but lets start low and go from there. Traction, car, turn radius, all will dictate where we go. Take good notes and let me know how things go. If you have a motolyser, see what your motolyser reads now and work timing from 15 to 18* range. Like I said, 3.2 is probably low, but lets start there and work up. Sometimes you catch lightening in a bottle in a different powerband of the motor way lower then what you would expect
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Old 08-21-2016, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by sg1 View Post
Start around a 3.2 and see where temps and fade are. In 13.5 open we've seen less motor timing with approx. 50* esc and more gear and rotor has been better. You may end up way taller gear, but lets start low and go from there. Traction, car, turn radius, all will dictate where we go. Take good notes and let me know how things go. If you have a motolyser, see what your motolyser reads now and work timing from 15 to 18* range. Like I said, 3.2 is probably low, but lets start there and work up. Sometimes you catch lightening in a bottle in a different powerband of the motor way lower then what you would expect
Perfect. Thank you for the great information and quick response! I will give that a try. Also, I will fill you in on the details after our race which is about 3 weeks away. Again, thank you.
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Old 08-21-2016, 08:09 PM
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Total newbie question:

I've been out of R/C racing for almost 15 years and just now getting back into it. 3000mAh NiMhs were the greatest thing when I last raced an RC10TC3!

Just picked up a Team Scream 2S 5000mAh 65C pack at the NORCAR track. What's the recommended charging rate?

Thanks!
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Old 08-22-2016, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by erikras View Post
Total newbie question:

I've been out of R/C racing for almost 15 years and just now getting back into it. 3000mAh NiMhs were the greatest thing when I last raced an RC10TC3!

Just picked up a Team Scream 2S 5000mAh 65C pack at the NORCAR track. What's the recommended charging rate?

Thanks!
I go 15A to 20A with my 2s packs.
Some guys will discharge at 40A then charge at 40A.
I'm limited with my charger
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:05 AM
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I suck as a driver but the motor is ballistic!!! Ended up not using the 4L rotor i purchased and the 2L gave me the fluidity i needed. Appreciate your products
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by sg1 View Post
I go 15A to 20A with my 2s packs.
Some guys will discharge at 40A then charge at 40A.
I'm limited with my charger
Thanks for the reply! The inexpensive Prodigy 680 charger I picked up will only do 8A. Any issues charging at such a lower rate?
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Old 08-22-2016, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by erikras View Post
Thanks for the reply! The inexpensive Prodigy 680 charger I picked up will only do 8A. Any issues charging at such a lower rate?
8A is fine, the advantage is so marginal that one decent board tap will cancel out the higher rate charge.

If you charge/discharge them too much at a high rate they start puffing.
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:24 PM
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So what is a general guideline to figure out gearing i know gearing for stock 17.5 and 13.5 but going to mod would you just figure so much rollout per turn? Say 96 for stock and 86 for 13.5 that difference is 2.5/turn so if i went to 6.5 would 68.5 be about the right rollout to start?

I dont have a mod motor but looking for used one to try it out see if i wanna run it.
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by MontanaMaxx View Post
So what is a general guideline to figure out gearing i know gearing for stock 17.5 and 13.5 but going to mod would you just figure so much rollout per turn? Say 96 for stock and 86 for 13.5 that difference is 2.5/turn so if i went to 6.5 would 68.5 be about the right rollout to start?

I dont have a mod motor but looking for used one to try it out see if i wanna run it.
With a 6.5, 13mm rotor, and 25* on the endbell I was 53mm RO
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Old 08-29-2016, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MontanaMaxx View Post
So what is a general guideline to figure out gearing i know gearing for stock 17.5 and 13.5 but going to mod would you just figure so much rollout per turn? Say 96 for stock and 86 for 13.5 that difference is 2.5/turn so if i went to 6.5 would 68.5 be about the right rollout to start?

I dont have a mod motor but looking for used one to try it out see if i wanna run it.
Look out. Drew is going mod
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Old 08-29-2016, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RBLove View Post
Look out. Drew is going mod
Thats right
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Old 09-06-2016, 03:29 PM
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I have a TSR 25.5 motor on the way. Any suggestions as to timing and FDR? I'm running outdoors on large (150-170 Ft straights) usually flowing asphalt tracks.
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Old 09-06-2016, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by John Wallace2 View Post
I have a TSR 25.5 motor on the way. Any suggestions as to timing and FDR? I'm running outdoors on large (150-170 Ft straights) usually flowing asphalt tracks.
I'm assuming you're running VTA...

Typically on larger more flowing tracks slightly less timing and more pinion works the best. Try the motor as is for timing and gear conservatively to start. I'm guessing 3.5's FDR is going to be under geared, but a starting point. See how the temps and fade are and adjust from there. If temps are 140+ (with a fan) try dropping the timing 1 line. Go out with same gear and see how it is. Timing will drop timing and fade more then dropping 1 pinion.

If temps are 110 or so, try adding a few more pinions. If it's still 110's add 1 line of timing. There's no magic temp you want, just the fastest top 5 with the least amount of fade. Typically when you're 110* range there's more to be had, if your 140+ the fade typically starts increasing.

If you're running F1 with the motor... Same theory applies.
Gearing wise start with a 44-96 with the set timing and follow the same rules as for VTA Running F1 make sure you have a fan, temps get a bit higher and more fade can occur.
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Old 09-06-2016, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sg1 View Post
I'm assuming you're running VTA...

Typically on larger more flowing tracks slightly less timing and more pinion works the best. Try the motor as is for timing and gear conservatively to start. I'm guessing 3.5's FDR is going to be under geared, but a starting point. See how the temps and fade are and adjust from there. If temps are 140+ (with a fan) try dropping the timing 1 line. Go out with same gear and see how it is. Timing will drop timing and fade more then dropping 1 pinion.

If temps are 110 or so, try adding a few more pinions. If it's still 110's add 1 line of timing. There's no magic temp you want, just the fastest top 5 with the least amount of fade. Typically when you're 110* range there's more to be had, if your 140+ the fade typically starts increasing.

If you're running F1 with the motor... Same theory applies.
Gearing wise start with a 44-96 with the set timing and follow the same rules as for VTA Running F1 make sure you have a fan, temps get a bit higher and more fade can occur.
Thanks you are correct VTA. Anybody know how much timing in degrees are in these motors as shipped?
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