294LikesTeam Scream Racing
08-15-2016, 01:55 PM
#751
Hoping to get some insights from the TSR experts - currently running a 17.5 "The 1" motor in a TLR 22 3.0 laydown transmission buggy. My home track is Norcal Hobbies and I'm trying to determine how to balance the right mix of motor timing and gearing. Currently running 64 pitch gearing - 42/96 right now.
After taking a 3-month break I got back on the track and it took forever for me to get around to tweaking the timing and gearing to get more punch out of the corners. Initially timing was turned all the way up to the 45* mark - I backed that down to around 32* and found more low-end torque.
So here's my question - with my current gearing and timing, in addition to a fan which keeps my motor temps right around 95-100*, where should I focus my attention? Not sure if playing around with timing is where I should focus...or should I pay more attention to pinion gearing? My goal is to get more bottom-end rip out of the corners with top speed being secondary.
After taking a 3-month break I got back on the track and it took forever for me to get around to tweaking the timing and gearing to get more punch out of the corners. Initially timing was turned all the way up to the 45* mark - I backed that down to around 32* and found more low-end torque.
So here's my question - with my current gearing and timing, in addition to a fan which keeps my motor temps right around 95-100*, where should I focus my attention? Not sure if playing around with timing is where I should focus...or should I pay more attention to pinion gearing? My goal is to get more bottom-end rip out of the corners with top speed being secondary.
08-15-2016, 02:32 PM
#752
Was planning to run a 72 spur in the YZ2 DT with 33/32 pinion..so still put timing at 45°?
08-15-2016, 05:37 PM
#753
With that much timing you'll see 2 things, you can be over and under geared and not have bottom end.
Start with a smaller than what you think pinion and work your way up to find the sweet spot. Motor temps with a fan may be 120 to 130*F depending on ambient temps.
08-15-2016, 05:57 PM
#754
My theory is, if I'm running 1/12 for instance, and I'm at a 94mm RO and my temps are 110*F I know I'm not getting everything out of the motor. I'll bump the timing up 1 line and see where it takes me (providing I'm not over timing the rotor I chose to run). It also works in reverse, if temps are 170's I drop 1 line. Swinging timing up and down will have a much more dramatic effect on motor temps.... BUT....
The real key though are the lap times. There have been many instances where I come off at 150*F+ and I'm only fading .3, so there's no reason to change anything
So... The moral of the story is not to base the motors performance only off of temps, top 5 laps and fade will tell the real story
Another tidbit of info that I spoke about... lol... Over timing the rotor you choose... For most applications we run stronger rotors now. With 1/12 being a lower voltage source you can't get away with higher timing and be efficient (on very high bite tracks with a 4 line). The most timing you'll want is 40* on a motolyser. Most of the time you'll be 36 to 38* on a motolyser. If you run a 2 line rotor you can get away with higher timing without killing the efficiency.
It's a crazy game to play with the different strength rotors, but general guidelines are stronger rotors = less timing and more gear, weaker rotors = higher timing and lower gear.
08-15-2016, 06:01 PM
#755
Hoping to get some insights from the TSR experts - currently running a 17.5 "The 1" motor in a TLR 22 3.0 laydown transmission buggy. My home track is Norcal Hobbies and I'm trying to determine how to balance the right mix of motor timing and gearing. Currently running 64 pitch gearing - 42/96 right now.
After taking a 3-month break I got back on the track and it took forever for me to get around to tweaking the timing and gearing to get more punch out of the corners. Initially timing was turned all the way up to the 45* mark - I backed that down to around 32* and found more low-end torque.
So here's my question - with my current gearing and timing, in addition to a fan which keeps my motor temps right around 95-100*, where should I focus my attention? Not sure if playing around with timing is where I should focus...or should I pay more attention to pinion gearing? My goal is to get more bottom-end rip out of the corners with top speed being secondary.
After taking a 3-month break I got back on the track and it took forever for me to get around to tweaking the timing and gearing to get more punch out of the corners. Initially timing was turned all the way up to the 45* mark - I backed that down to around 32* and found more low-end torque.
So here's my question - with my current gearing and timing, in addition to a fan which keeps my motor temps right around 95-100*, where should I focus my attention? Not sure if playing around with timing is where I should focus...or should I pay more attention to pinion gearing? My goal is to get more bottom-end rip out of the corners with top speed being secondary.
08-15-2016, 06:16 PM
#756
Tech Apprentice
08-16-2016, 05:00 AM
#757
Yes, go 45*, if you snug the timing screws down and it looks like 44*, go with it, close enough
With that much timing you'll see 2 things, you can be over and under geared and not have bottom end.
Start with a smaller than what you think pinion and work your way up to find the sweet spot. Motor temps with a fan may be 120 to 130*F depending on ambient temps.
With that much timing you'll see 2 things, you can be over and under geared and not have bottom end.
Start with a smaller than what you think pinion and work your way up to find the sweet spot. Motor temps with a fan may be 120 to 130*F depending on ambient temps.
08-16-2016, 06:25 AM
#758
Tech Initiate
I'm using a 21.5 TSR The One in our 21.5 Pan Car oval class. Run line is 144' medium/high bite. Endbell @ 45. Rollout is 4.44. The car ran good and temps were around 130. However, the motor fell off around the two minute mark. I also tried to drop timing, added gear but times went down. Seems like the TSR motors like lower rollouts. Any recommendations to pick up more speed w/o fading?
08-16-2016, 07:04 AM
#759
I'm using a 21.5 TSR The One in our 21.5 Pan Car oval class. Run line is 144' medium/high bite. Endbell @ 45. Rollout is 4.44. The car ran good and temps were around 130. However, the motor fell off around the two minute mark. I also tried to drop timing, added gear but times went down. Seems like the TSR motors like lower rollouts. Any recommendations to pick up more speed w/o fading?
08-16-2016, 02:32 PM
#763
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
Wondering if I have a bearing problem / debris issue in a 21.5 The 1. Seems like I am getting some drag from the motor occasionally when hand spinning the drive train. Occasionally there is drag then it goes away. I disengage the pinion from the spur and check drive train and it is as free as ever but when I re engage there is drag. I have 4 xray t4's so I'm very familiar with how they feel hand spinning when free motor engaged or not. I have added oil on several occasions to the front bearing thinking maybe a bit of debris has gotten in the bearing case maybe hoping the oil would help work it out? It seems that adding the oil has possibly helped it free up but not positive as the problem seems to come and go. Right now everything is free again and I am hoping the problem is gone. I've never seen how motor bearings act when going bad and am wondering if this is a sign of that? There has been no noise or other symptoms noticed from the front bearing. I havent taken anything apart yet as I'm kind of in wait and see if the problem goes away or not mode. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
08-16-2016, 03:27 PM
#764
I would suggest doing a bit more investigation if you're only judging it by wheelspin with and without a pinion on. You could have an issue in the drivetrain in the spur gear area or belts that you only see under load.
If you aren't comfortable taking the motor apart I would still take it out of the car and compare with a motor with similar rotor strength using a pinion to spin them. I would still ask someone knowledgeable to take the motor apart for a good inspection in the stator area, there could be a piece of metal (body clip, bearing, etc) stuck in there.
Waiting to see if it solves itself could cause more damage if there is something lodged in there.
If you aren't comfortable taking the motor apart I would still take it out of the car and compare with a motor with similar rotor strength using a pinion to spin them. I would still ask someone knowledgeable to take the motor apart for a good inspection in the stator area, there could be a piece of metal (body clip, bearing, etc) stuck in there.
Waiting to see if it solves itself could cause more damage if there is something lodged in there.
08-16-2016, 04:46 PM
#765
Tech Initiate
