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Old 04-08-2019, 07:06 AM
  #2461  
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Originally Posted by sg1
Are you able to check the rotor strength to verify the rotor is still OK?

As for timing and gearing...
I like high FDR's in 25.5 and lots of timing
That typically works on 80 to 120' straights and just change a gear or 2.
For example up at the Canadian Nats I ran a 4.99 with 57* in VTA, but my tires were really big and ballooned.
Motor was only 110 to 120*F
You could go that route, mid 50's and add some gear till you find the sweet spot.
I'd guess a 4.6 or 4.7 with big tires.
The other way to go is lower timing..
In F1 I ran the V3 25.5 with 38 to 40* and went 6 teeth higher and had great bottom end and top speed.
So if you went low timing you may end up 3.9/4.0 or so.

On to 21.5... lol...

That motor likes to be around a 4.3 to 4.5 on most tracks and swing the timing around.
Try 48 to 50* to start and work your way up.
It didn't seem to work just piling on the gear with that motor, it likes a bit less gear and more timing.

These are motolyser numbers, not can numbers.
John shoulda sent sheets with the motors.. see what timing they are at and mark the can, then you know what the timing was and swing it from there.
Thank You very much for the info
I don't have a way to check rotor strength, but the Motolyzer numbers are pretty much the same as before the screw incident with exception of the impedence is a little higher (+ .3 usually), but there's variance with my motolyzer. I put in an undamaged v2 rotor and it puts down the same motolyzer numbers.. Guess the safe bet is to just order a backup
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Old 04-08-2019, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ActiveShooter
Thank You very much for the info
I don't have a way to check rotor strength, but the Motolyzer numbers are pretty much the same as before the screw incident with exception of the impedence is a little higher (+ .3 usually), but there's variance with my motolyzer. I put in an undamaged v2 rotor and it puts down the same motolyzer numbers.. Guess the safe bet is to just order a backup
You may want to try a 3 line rotor in 21.5
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Old 04-20-2019, 10:58 PM
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140' straight on asphalt with 25.5 the One
what spur size are you running ?
schumacher mi6evo so i only have 90t and 96t in 64p to choose from.
i tried the 4.7 gears talked about and was running .8 slower lap times than with 3.92 i ended up with at 58į timing,
44t pinion and 96t spur right now. suggestions?
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Old 04-21-2019, 10:53 AM
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Whats a good starting point for timing and fdr for a v3 21.5 in F1 on a 120x60 asphalt track?
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Old 04-22-2019, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ImacFanatic
140' straight on asphalt with 25.5 the One
what spur size are you running ?
schumacher mi6evo so i only have 90t and 96t in 64p to choose from.
i tried the 4.7 gears talked about and was running .8 slower lap times than with 3.92 i ended up with at 58į timing,
44t pinion and 96t spur right now. suggestions?
Is that 58* can timing?
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Old 04-22-2019, 06:43 AM
  #2466  
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Originally Posted by mtveten
Whats a good starting point for timing and fdr for a v3 21.5 in F1 on a 120x60 asphalt track?
What timing is the motor at now and have you tried anything?
Looking at notes here, the only F1 info I have is for large carpet tracks that size.
For those lower timing (40* on motolyser) and gearing of 35/36-98 worked well.
I'd guess you have less traction then black carpet, so you may get away with another pinion and/or more timing.
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Old 04-22-2019, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by sg1
Is that 58* can timing?
No, timing from the dyno sheet in the box.
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Old 04-22-2019, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ImacFanatic
No, timing from the dyno sheet in the box.
A few guys have found that the 3.9 FDR is better... but when the traction comes up or the car is too stuck, it gets hot and drops off the last minute.
If your track is big and flowing maybe you could get away with it.
If it lacks bottom end try a 4.0
Just watch you temps/fade with 58* and a 3.92FDR.
If that feels close you can always go up or down a few degrees and try a pinion or two swing.

.
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Old 04-22-2019, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by sg1
What timing is the motor at now and have you tried anything?
Looking at notes here, the only F1 info I have is for large carpet tracks that size.
For those lower timing (40* on motolyser) and gearing of 35/36-98 worked well.
I'd guess you have less traction then black carpet, so you may get away with another pinion and/or more timing.
I'd have to check the sheet that came with the motor, I thought it arrived with the timing set in the 50s but I could be mistaken. is lower timing w/taller gearing in general better for v3 motors or is that more of a carpet setup thing? For reference my old motor was a 1s mach3 that worked well at 42* around 2.7fdr on the same track.
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Old 04-22-2019, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mtveten
I'd have to check the sheet that came with the motor, I thought it arrived with the timing set in the 50s but I could be mistaken. is lower timing w/taller gearing in general better for v3 motors or is that more of a carpet setup thing? For reference my old motor was a 1s mach3 that worked well at 42* around 2.7fdr on the same track.
Come on Mark.. you know the right answer to test on the track and go from there.. what ever the factory motor timing setting just leave it there and start with smaller pinion and see how is feel on the track and check temp for safe side.....
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Old 04-23-2019, 05:04 AM
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The one thing I have learned from running the V3 25.5 is you can no longer use temp as a tuning guideline. This motor just runs cool. If it gets hot you are way off in gearing and/or timing. Tuning has to be done by car feel and the time slips.
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by old_dude
The one thing I have learned from running the V3 25.5 is you can no longer use temp as a tuning guideline. This motor just runs cool. If it gets hot you are way off in gearing and/or timing. Tuning has to be done by car feel and the time slips.
And donít be afraid to try lower gearing than when your gut will allow..

I stayed a bit after racing this past weekend, and took what I felt was a big swing down in gearing (about 3-4 teeth) and I didnít loose any lap time. In fact I might have gained a tenth or so on a few laps.
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Old 05-16-2019, 03:38 PM
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Need sanity check on new 3.0 21.5 in USGT - new motor is said to be lower rpm and KV on sheet from TSR is slightly lower, even with more timing. I see people talking about higher numeric FDR but my 2.0 always ran best around 3.7-3.8 FDR on our track (150ft open outdoor asphalt). Any advice on this on the larger track? I'll probably need to get pinions before the weekend if it needs to be much higher. Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Big C
Need sanity check on new 3.0 21.5 in USGT - new motor is said to be lower rpm and KV on sheet from TSR is slightly lower, even with more timing. I see people talking about higher numeric FDR but my 2.0 always ran best around 3.7-3.8 FDR on our track (150ft open outdoor asphalt). Any advice on this on the larger track? I'll probably need to get pinions before the weekend if it needs to be much higher. Thanks in advance!
I'm currently running my 3.0/21.5. with 56deg timing and a. 4.15 FDR on a track with about 180ft straight. It's holding its own on the straight and has good punch in the infield. Comes off under 150. Probably going to try dropping a tooth on the pinion and see how that does.. My 2.0 liked a lot more gear than this 3.0. Not certain the 3.0 is an improvement, but I've had to wrap my head around a high fdr.
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Old 05-17-2019, 05:22 AM
  #2475  
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I think dropping another pinion would be a good thing
Is the 56* a can number or motolyser?
The V3 stuff does like a bit more timing then the V2 and less gear.. for most cases
There has been a few instances where you can run the lower FDR.. 3.8 or so... but guys had to drop to 40* range (motolyser)
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