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Old 09-18-2018, 07:29 AM
  #2296  
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I don't look at the KV or free rev RPM as an end all tell all.
I like to use the motolyser as a reference for timing and see how the sensors are, then I check the motor on the dyno to see what it is under load.
Also.. If you are running 12th scale, have you tried an input voltage of 4.2V? There are times I see a variation in readings (timing and sensor deviation) from 8v to 4.2v.

Try the lower timing (42* ish) and a 60's RO.
If it is slugish off the turn drop in gearing.
If it peaks off quickly and runs cool you can add gear or a degree or so of timing.
I wouldn't go below 42*, Under a load that seemed to be the lowest timing without losing power.
You can actually go too low and the motor drops power
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Old 09-18-2018, 07:52 PM
  #2297  
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Excellent. Thank you for the notes!
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Old 09-19-2018, 11:14 AM
  #2298  
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I'm headed off to the USVTA Sounthern nats in a few hours.
I'll do my best to keep up with posts and questions for the nest few days
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Old 09-23-2018, 06:33 PM
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Wayne - congrats on the big win!!
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Old 09-23-2018, 07:06 PM
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+1
the Can-Am super stock 1/12 motor was great too
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Old 09-24-2018, 06:21 AM
  #2301  
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Default Tq and win for TSR at the USVTA southern nats!



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Old 09-25-2018, 04:13 AM
  #2302  
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What's a good starting point for timing and gearing for 17.5 the 1 in a 1/10 off road buggy on high grip astroturf, 120' straight with allot of tight corners? Indoor track.
I'm at 44 degs. & 69/30 now looking for more punch coming out of the turns. I started at 46, 69/29 and didn't seem to change much when I went to my current settings.
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Old 09-25-2018, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by roysays
What's a good starting point for timing and gearing for 17.5 the 1 in a 1/10 off road buggy on high grip astroturf, 120' straight with allot of tight corners? Indoor track.
I'm at 44 degs. & 69/30 now looking for more punch coming out of the turns. I started at 46, 69/29 and didn't seem to change much when I went to my current settings.
Are you running the V2?
Try dropping the pinion (27 or 28) and raising the spur (72 or 75) .
If temps drop drastically in the motor, then try bringing the timing up a few degrees (48).
What ESC are you running with what settings?

Last edited by sg1; 09-25-2018 at 06:01 AM.
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Old 09-25-2018, 06:23 AM
  #2304  
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Originally Posted by sg1
Are you running the V2?
Try dropping the pinion (27 or 28) and raising the spur (72 or 75) .
If temps drop drastically in the motor, then try bringing the timing up a few degrees (48).
What ESC are you running with what settings?
yes V2
HW XR10 Pro Stock V4 ESC in blinky mode
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Old 09-25-2018, 09:55 AM
  #2305  
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Originally Posted by roysays
yes V2
HW XR10 Pro Stock V4 ESC in blinky mode
What drive frequency do you run?
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Old 09-25-2018, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by sg1
What drive frequency do you run?
not sure I never changed the stock settings. What frequency do you recommend?
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Old 09-25-2018, 03:49 PM
  #2307  
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Low as possible, 1k
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Old 10-01-2018, 01:09 PM
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Default TSR Can Am Motors

I've been getting alot of PM's about the TSR Can Am motors. We are doing motors for 1/12 stock and 1/12 super stock.
They are based on different version motors we have had.
To assure the timing, RPM, KV, and Amp draw are very similar we opted to go with a can that does have adjustable timing so we can set each motor.
There's a tamper proof ID sticker along the can's seam. Then we fill in the timing screws and 3 long screws that hold the can together.
To help with spot checking motors, we have cut into the endbell and can to show a "line up" of where the endbell is set to.

Here's a pic of how they look:


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Old 10-04-2018, 12:43 PM
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Hi, I was wondering what kind of benefit I would get from buying a new rotor for my 17.5 V2 "the one"? Would there be a noticeable difference?
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Old 10-04-2018, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by VanBee
Hi, I was wondering what kind of benefit I would get from buying a new rotor for my 17.5 V2 "the one"? Would there be a noticeable difference?
Did you overheat the motor or run it multiple times a week?

Do you have a gauss meter that you can check it?

I've run the same rotor a year and it only dropped maybe 20 points.

The only time I see a drop in the rotors is when they consistently run 180*+ (on the can, not laminations) in a TC
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