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Old 01-02-2014, 06:08 PM   #316
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If I go to Hawaii I'm taking my touring car. That track looks awesome.
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:35 PM   #317
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Time to upgrade my motor… I'm still rocking my Ion2 motor for Mod Does anyone ever use the upgraded bearings? I don't think it will make too much of a difference in Mod, maybe just keep the temps down a few degrees..
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:44 PM   #318
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Or maybe not… I just ran my motor that hasn't been used for 2 years as well as my Lipo's that haven't been used for that long either, I was under-geared one tooth and had my slipper set a little loose (dry dusty track) and I was clearing the triple with no issues.. In fact, I was missing the backside of the triple and bottoming out well after it! Gotta say I love my Fantom gear! My 2wd buggy is going to get a lot of love this year
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Old 01-08-2014, 03:00 PM   #319
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Default Apex V2 Spec 17.5 HT issues

So I picked up a Apex V2 Spec 17.5 HT and had some problems. When I was trying to adjust the timing I found that I could not turn the end plate at all. I had to remove the motor from my truck and loosen the can screws to be able to finally adjust the timing. Then once on track my truck came to a stop after 2 laps. I investigated and found that the two timing screws were gone and the timing plate moved around about 180*. I never found the screws but the next day I found some random screws that fit but were too long so I cut them down, still not sure what the correct screw size is since both fell off.

So I took the entire motor apart and found that even without screws it is really difficult to adjust the timing plate. I eventually worked it and a groove started to wear where possibly a high spot rubs, it works better but still really stiff. Then the most surprising thing is that the stator floats back and forth in the can, is this normal? Even after I reassembled it i see that the stator moves a little back and forth. I ended up re-shimming the rotor to allow for a little more play to be able to match the play in the stator and then reassembled. I also have a Trinity D3 and D3.5 and checked and those stators don't move in the can.

I have not tried it out on the track yet, but would the timing going to 180* hurt the motor at all?

Before I had the mishap the motor was strong for a few minutes but would fade which is why I was messing with the timing.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:16 PM   #320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigasipke View Post
So I picked up a Apex V2 Spec 17.5 HT and had some problems. When I was trying to adjust the timing I found that I could not turn the end plate at all. I had to remove the motor from my truck and loosen the can screws to be able to finally adjust the timing. Then once on track my truck came to a stop after 2 laps. I investigated and found that the two timing screws were gone and the timing plate moved around about 180*. I never found the screws but the next day I found some random screws that fit but were too long so I cut them down, still not sure what the correct screw size is since both fell off.

So I took the entire motor apart and found that even without screws it is really difficult to adjust the timing plate. I eventually worked it and a groove started to wear where possibly a high spot rubs, it works better but still really stiff. Then the most surprising thing is that the stator floats back and forth in the can, is this normal? Even after I reassembled it i see that the stator moves a little back and forth. I ended up re-shimming the rotor to allow for a little more play to be able to match the play in the stator and then reassembled. I also have a Trinity D3 and D3.5 and checked and those stators don't move in the can.

I have not tried it out on the track yet, but would the timing going to 180* hurt the motor at all?

Before I had the mishap the motor was strong for a few minutes but would fade which is why I was messing with the timing.
Hmmmm The stator should not be moving at all.. When you say 'back and forth' do you mean like wobbling? It sounds like something was unseated. The 180* shouldn't have done anything unless it caused your motor to overheat.

These are the screws you are looking for i believe:
http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...?prod=FAN28263
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:38 PM   #321
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Originally Posted by FantomLeopard View Post
Hmmmm The stator should not be moving at all.. When you say 'back and forth' do you mean like wobbling? It sounds like something was unseated. The 180* shouldn't have done anything unless it caused your motor to overheat.

These are the screws you are looking for i believe:
http://www.fantomracing.com/proddeta...?prod=FAN28263
Thanks for the link on the screws. That is pretty close to the length that I dremel cut the screws that I found that where the right thread pitch.

The 180* off was only after 2 laps and was ice cold so it didn't overheat, so I guess that is good. I still can't figure out why the end bell is so tight, I guess I will sand it a bit to give it more play.

The stator can move freely in the can back and forth about 1/2 inch. The can has an indent that won't allow me to fully pull the stator out, based on my other motors I had also thought that it was just dislodged. The indent in the can looks factory, maybe I can push the stator into the fully seated position and dent the can a little more to hold it in place.

Looks like I am going to take the motor apart tonight and first try to get the stator to not move and then give the timing plate more play.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:45 PM   #322
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Wait, you can't pull the stator out at all?? That doesn't sound right… Here is a shot of most of the parts on your motor:



Are you able to get a pic of your motor with the endplate off so I can see the bent part you are talking about? The stator SHOULD come out.. The magnets are VERY strong and will make it hard but it definitely should come out..

edit: sorry, wrong pic
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:49 PM   #323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigasipke View Post
Thanks for the link on the screws. That is pretty close to the length that I dremel cut the screws that I found that where the right thread pitch.

The 180* off was only after 2 laps and was ice cold so it didn't overheat, so I guess that is good. I still can't figure out why the end bell is so tight, I guess I will sand it a bit to give it more play.

The stator can move freely in the can back and forth about 1/2 inch. The can has an indent that won't allow me to fully pull the stator out, based on my other motors I had also thought that it was just dislodged. The indent in the can looks factory, maybe I can push the stator into the fully seated position and dent the can a little more to hold it in place.

Looks like I am going to take the motor apart tonight and first try to get the stator to not move and then give the timing plate more play.
The ring is tight because of the anodizing. Just take the timing plate off and sand around the edge a couple times. It will be loose after that and easy to rotate. I have had every one of my trinity motors have that issue, but it's a 2min fix. As far as the stator moving I have not seen that on any motor I have run.
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:49 PM   #324
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You also might try this thread that is strictly for these motors:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ot-motors.html

I've never personally used them because I run Mod. I'm mostly basing my reasoning off of my experience with the Ion 2 and 3 motors
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:53 PM   #325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FantomLeopard View Post
Wait, you can't pull the stator out at all?? That doesn't sound right… Here is a shot of most of the parts on your motor:



Are you able to get a pic of your motor with the endplate off so I can see the bent part you are talking about? The stator SHOULD come out.. The magnets are VERY strong and will make it hard but it definitely should come out..

edit: sorry, wrong pic
I think you meant the rotor should come out. Not the stator.
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:03 PM   #326
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I think you meant the rotor should come out. Not the stator.
SMH… This is why I shouldn't log on after work any more How embarrassing.. Sigh.. But now this makes more sense to me!

Now it's just a question of why your motor tossed it's timing screws and how everything flipped around so much.
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:10 PM   #327
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Originally Posted by FantomLeopard View Post
SMH… This is why I shouldn't log on after work any more How embarrassing.. Sigh.. But now this makes more sense to me!

Now it's just a question of why your motor tossed it's timing screws and how everything flipped around so much.
He said he loosened them to adjust and prob didn't have them tight enough. I would thing the strength of the rotor would be enough to turn the sensor if the screws were not tight enough.
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:16 PM   #328
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Now I want to pull my motor off the car and check to see if the stator freely moves or not.. I wonder if once the motor threw the screws there was enough torque to break the inside of the can loose..
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:44 AM   #329
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Well here are a few pics of the stator movement. Also the screws that I used for the timing plate, I think the hex size is larger but again they both fell off. The screws falling off were definitely because I thought I tightened them because the timing plate would no longer move. What I think happened was that the back plate had moved so that I didn't actually screw into it.

I will sand off more of the anodizing to get it to spin freely. At this point I have taken it apart so many times that I am starting to wear it out on the bench.


Here is the stator play fully pushed in to almost out of the can. The dent in the can stops it from fully coming out.



Cut down screws with possibly bigger hex.



Here is the dent in the can that I believe is supposed to hold the stator in place, maybe it was not dented in enough or far enough back. Either way I am going to dent it in myself to get it to hold.


I will try that other thread for more specific questions about this motor, thanks.
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Last edited by Gigasipke; 01-09-2014 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:39 AM   #330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigasipke View Post
Well here are a few pics of the stator movement. Also the screws that I used for the timing plate, I think the hex size is larger but again they both fell off. The screws falling off were definitely because I thought I tightened them because the timing plate would no longer move. What I think happened was that the back plate had moved so that I didn't actually screw into it.

I will sand off more of the anodizing to get it to spin freely. At this point I have taken it apart so many times that I am starting to wear it out on the bench.


Here is the stator play fully pushed in to almost out of the can. The dent in the can stops it from fully coming out.



Cut down screws with possibly bigger hex.



Here is the dent in the can that I believe is supposed to hold the stator in place, maybe it was not dented in enough or far enough back. Either way I am going to dent it in myself to get it to hold.


I will try that other thread for more specific questions about this motor, thanks.
The can should not be dented at all. If your running it in a rear motor buggy it's from landing off jumps and getting chassis slap. I just think you got a bum motor. Something was not secured properly from the factory and it has probably worked its way loose. The stator should definately not be pulling out like that. I would contact fantom and see if they will replace it.

Did you buy the motor new or used? What were you running it in? The dents look like it was ran in a rear motor buggy or a 2wd SC or stadium truck. I has a revtech get the same dents in my buggy a couple years ago.
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