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Old 03-31-2010, 05:39 PM   #61
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Cool Also the ESC I'm using is the LRP SPX Stock Spec ESC...

I am also using the Stock Spec LRP ESC Competition. I just need to know the starting profiles for the Duo 2 10.5 and 13.5....

Thanks once again...

Jeremy
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:13 PM   #62
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Default Team epic 2010?

Hey all: With Paul Lemieux gone who's left on the Epic/Trinity team for 2010? Thanks for the info
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:46 AM   #63
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Default DUO/DUO2 Optional ROAR-Spec Rotor - 12.5mm

Hi,
anybody know where I can get one of these (and shipped to Aus)?

DUO/DUO2 Optional ROAR-Spec Rotor - 12.5mm
#TRI 10306 - this is the one for Stock, 10.5 - 21.5 motors...

or is it the same as the 12.5mm rotor for the Mod motors... like the #TRI 10303????

thanks
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Old 07-15-2010, 10:41 AM   #64
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Hello,

Contact Billy Bruce directly at Epic, he will get you set up with what you need. You can get an email address off of the support webpage from teamepiconline.com
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Old 07-15-2010, 12:35 PM   #65
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u guys still picking up any driver?
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:51 AM   #66
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I dissasembled my 10.5t duo 2 and cleaned it up. Foam tires and traction compound does make a mess inside. Now, when i yanked out the rotor there were 2 shims. One thin shim and one thicker shim. The thin shim needs to go at the back as it was still in de stator when i yanked the rotor out but i am not sure where the thicker shim needs to be. Does it go in the front or also at the back?

I didn't pay attention on that part when i tried to pull the rotor out and all of a sudden there was the thick shim on the table
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Old 07-26-2010, 09:42 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
I dissasembled my 10.5t duo 2 and cleaned it up. Foam tires and traction compound does make a mess inside. Now, when i yanked out the rotor there were 2 shims. One thin shim and one thicker shim. The thin shim needs to go at the back as it was still in de stator when i yanked the rotor out but i am not sure where the thicker shim needs to be. Does it go in the front or also at the back?

I didn't pay attention on that part when i tried to pull the rotor out and all of a sudden there was the thick shim on the table
On my Duo2 17.5 I had two shims on the back of the rotor and one long shim on the front of the rotor.
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Old 07-27-2010, 12:28 AM   #68
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ok, then i think i put it in wrong. I have one shim at the back(that was on teh table), then a thin shim at the front, then a long shim and then another shim (that fell on the table). I tested it and it seems to run fine on the bench.
There is hardly any play in the rotor. Just enough to let it run smooth.

Also when i picked my chassis up after i cleaned it there fell another thin brass shim somewhere off my chassis. God knows where that came from. The motor seems to work fine without any excessive play.

by the way, they should invent something so you can pull the rotor in and out without scratching it against the stator. I know it can't be done in another way yet but everytime i do this and i see and feel the rotor slamming against the stator and dragging over it i think yikes
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Old 07-27-2010, 02:10 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
ok, then i think i put it in wrong. I have one shim at the back(that was on teh table), then a thin shim at the front, then a long shim and then another shim (that fell on the table). I tested it and it seems to run fine on the bench.
There is hardly any play in the rotor. Just enough to let it run smooth.

Also when i picked my chassis up after i cleaned it there fell another thin brass shim somewhere off my chassis. God knows where that came from. The motor seems to work fine without any excessive play.

by the way, they should invent something so you can pull the rotor in and out without scratching it against the stator. I know it can't be done in another way yet but everytime i do this and i see and feel the rotor slamming against the stator and dragging over it i think yikes
For proper rotor spacing you want to put spacers on the end of the motor that the sensors sit at, you want to make sure that when your rotor is on the bearing by the sensors that the back edge of the rotor does not touch the sensors or you will wreck them and the motor will not work correctly. You want to have just a little bit of movement but as above don't let the rotor hit the sensors. Close to the sensors is okay, just no touching.

I took a wrench handle from a discarded and broken .050 tool and drilled the end that the blank insert would go to fit the rotor output shaft, I slide the handle on the rotor shaft tighten the set screw and then move the rotor either in or out of the coil, this lets you get a good grab on the rotor and makes it easier to move around and locate into the bearings.
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Old 08-23-2010, 01:27 PM   #70
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Default New Duo3

Oh Boy. http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...ed-generic.pdf
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:30 AM   #71
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Is Sticky Fingers additive water based or water soluble or neither?

Thanks
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:38 AM   #72
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It is a petroleum based product so neither.
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Old 07-27-2011, 01:42 PM   #73
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Anybody know what the replacment rotor is for the nemesis 10.5 sc version. Its supost to be high tq one but I can't find it.
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Old 07-27-2011, 02:30 PM   #74
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.
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