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Old 01-26-2005, 02:24 PM   #2686
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I would take the higher runtime hands down. The discharge curve will be higher in the higer runtime pack plus the voltage is EXTREMELY close already.
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:30 PM   #2687
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that's what i'm thinking. i got my 1.18+ cells in today from pmr but they are 405s/1.18 on the nose. so i'm thjinking i'm going to return them and get the 420+/1.175-1.179 packs instead. they're cheaper and the discharge curve is better like you say.
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:32 PM   #2688
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Erika- I am moving down to Tempe, to go to college down there. Yeah sucks about cactus. I called the shop yesterday and I am 7th in line for fill ins and class rounding. He said he will know for sure if I got in or not tomorrow, so I am hoping for odd numbers in Mod 2wd and Mod Truck.
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Old 01-26-2005, 04:19 PM   #2689
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Hey guys,
Just ordered some batts from Mr Jolly, got a quick Q about charging....

Now the previous GP3300's I've been running I tended to charge at 5 or 6A, with a 15mv delta peak (on a LRP Pulsar sport).
Now I understand that by varying the aperage you increase voltage, but decrease run time, what does the delta peak do? Would it be advisable to run a higher lower value?

I also have an Orion charger/discharger, that i use solely to discharge cells between runs, and a Robitronic tray that i use to equalise (it only discharges at 1amp, so not enough time to equalise between rounds).

Any specific hints tips that can also be provided for looking after my new batts?

I can't wait to get hold of the batts, my current GP's are simply knackerd, and i feel they've been holding me back from a better finals postion in the indoor winter series we have over here (constantly C, should be in the B)

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Old 01-26-2005, 05:13 PM   #2690
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I use a LRP Pulsar as well and use 15mv and charge at 6 amps with great results. I usually equalize before I charge/race with a Novak Smart Tray and once or twice a month I will use a Pro Match Smart Tray overnight. It's as close to deadshorting as you can get without doing it. It seems it gives the voltage benefits but without the loss of runtime.


Also before you ask about the Pro Match tray, they stopped making them but you can find them sometimes on Ebay and here on for sale section.
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Old 01-26-2005, 06:00 PM   #2691
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I also use the Pulsar, and Millenium Pro. I charge at 6amps on both. 5amps will get the job done, but won't give you that extra punch. Charging at 6amps doesn't take away enough runtime to make a noticable difference. So it works out perfect. Now if you charged at like 9amps, then you would notice, haha ( don't charge at 9amps, its a joke )
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Old 01-26-2005, 07:01 PM   #2692
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Awwww come on Ben....no guts....slap that baby on up there!!! j/k
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Old 01-27-2005, 03:31 AM   #2693
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Thanks guys, most useful, 6A @ 15mv it is

On the aperage thing, I have heard of some charging at 13 before..... He wanted max punch for a final...don't know how he got on, didn't hang a round to see them go boom

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Old 01-27-2005, 03:36 AM   #2694
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
Thanks guys, most useful, 6A @ 15mv it is

On the aperage thing, I have heard of some charging at 13 before..... He wanted max punch for a final...don't know how he got on, didn't hang a round to see them go boom

Regards
Ed
Hahah nutter! Had time to shrink wrap all my cells last night, numbers looked quite good, there was a 1.178/1.179 pack in there! Should really give me some rip in stock.

Do you recommend traying right until your going to charge, so straight out of the tray onto the charger?
I wish the smart tray had the option to hold the cells at the voltage you select as well as taking them down to it.
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Old 01-27-2005, 04:05 AM   #2695
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I guess there may be some advantage to that but I usually just try and tray them and charge as soon as I can but not exactly straight from the tray to the charger.
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Old 01-27-2005, 07:19 AM   #2696
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I use a similar method as promatchrcr...I use my TEKIN BC112A charge at 5amps @ 10mv. Before I go to a BIG race I ALWAYS cycle my packs and put them on the Pro-Match Tray. It REALLY revives the packs to where I like them and gives them a little extra POW !!!...I know some poeple say that charging over 5 amps is ok, but its just the method to my madness I ONLY chareg at 5 amps. Juts my $0.02 about what I do before races.

-EG
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Old 01-27-2005, 09:34 AM   #2697
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Tryhard, here in the socal area we've been charging stock/19t batteries at 6.5-7 Amp (sometimes 8 if I'm in a pinch hehe) @ 40mv cutoff on an LRP Pulsar Comp charger. Keep in mind that is 40mv for the entire pack and is dependant on a lot of variables including ambient temperature. If it's like 120 degrees out, I would bump it down. If the batteries come off cooking, I would also bump it down. If it's a chilly day, I would bump it up to 45mv but never really have gone above 55mv. With mod batteries, I charge anywhere from 5-6.5 Amp @40mv cuttoff.
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:26 AM   #2698
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Tryhard
Don`t be tempted by these figures, juet go with 5.5 ish & 10-15 mvp ish

Don`t listen to them only me cos i am god
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:33 AM   #2699
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HAHAHA.... Yeah really the 5 or 5.5 rate is the safest and most realiable.

You find you a 1/12 scale JOLLY??
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Old 01-27-2005, 10:39 AM   #2700
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I would say that even 15 - 24 mvh is too high...when I use to run LRP stuff...Matt told me NEVER to put it over 10mvh. Thats the only setting he uses on his and mine as well. I mean you guys can do what you want thats kewl. Im just telling you waht he told me to do.

-EG
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