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Old 11-08-2003, 07:47 AM   #91
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Default putnam in the uk?

hey guys does anybody know of anybody who sells or distributes putnam motors in the uk? i know that shumacher distribute there brushes but havent seen the motors anywhere, o and contacts detials wud also be great if you have them
Thanks for any help
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Old 11-08-2003, 07:56 PM   #92
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Mike D... Wow... finally someone who looks at brush hood alignment the same way I do. I was beginning to think I was all alone.
I also tried trimming the leading edge of my monster brushes(.015). My results were differnt than those posted. I used my CE dyno on two motors. One was a good motor (dyno numbers) and one was below average, but both fresh. Both lost some RPM (500 to 1000) both showed a good watt gain (2 to4 watts) at 18,20,22, and 24 amp draw. Both lost a watt at 28 amps. both had higher efficency with the cut brushes. The most RPM drop was at 28 amps.
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Old 11-09-2003, 08:08 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally posted by ottoman
Mike D... Wow... finally someone who looks at brush hood alignment the same way I do. I was beginning to think I was all alone.
I also tried trimming the leading edge of my monster brushes(.015). My results were differnt than those posted. I used my CE dyno on two motors. One was a good motor (dyno numbers) and one was below average, but both fresh. Both lost some RPM (500 to 1000) both showed a good watt gain (2 to4 watts) at 18,20,22, and 24 amp draw. Both lost a watt at 28 amps. both had higher efficency with the cut brushes. The most RPM drop was at 28 amps.
ottoman - I see that you use amp loads on your turbo dyno. I used to do the same with mine, but recently found that torque loads are much more useful when building motors. Amp loads on the CE dyno became popular years ago because people geared their motors for amp draw because the batteries had so little run time (i.e. 1700, 2000, 2400). Nowadays we have runtime to spare with 3300, so gearing and motor selection in stock is more based on motor performance instead of just amp draw. Try the following setting and let me know what you think.

Set the dyno to Torque loads... I use 3, 4.5, 6, 7, 8, 9. Input voltage is more preference then anything... I'll use 6.7 volts when testing motor setups for sedan, but use 5.0 for 12th scale and on race days so I don't trash the motor before it sees the track. If you are going to do a lot of dyno work at once, just use 5.0 - the results wil be more consistant.

Evaluating the dyno results now is much easier with these settings. The dyno numbers actually show what the motor is doing on the track. The 3 and 4.5 torque loads represent the load on the motor going down the straight. The 6 and 7 torque loads represent the load on the motor in sweepers and short straights. The 8 and 9 torque loads represent the load on the motor as it exits the turn. When the dyno is set to torque loads, you can completely ignore the power and efficiency numbers. The power is just a number calculated from RPM and torque. Since the torque is constant for all the motors tested, higher RPM will mean higher power. Higher RPM on the 8 and 9 loads means the motor is spinning faster as it exits the turn. Higher RPM on the 3 and 4.5 loads means the motor is spinning faster down the straight. The efficiency is also just a number calculated from power and amp draw. I find amp draw is much easier to understand then efficiency in figuring out what the motor is actually doing on the track. These dyno settings have predicted which motor will be faster every time I've run my car on the track. These setting will really show which is the better motor. Let me know how it works for you or if you have any questions.
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Old 11-09-2003, 10:22 PM   #94
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Mike D... Thanks for the info... I will plug those numbers into my dyno this week... its going to take some getting used to a new way of looking at the results but it sounds like I might learn some things. I will let you know how I do...
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Old 11-09-2003, 11:34 PM   #95
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jzone, thanks for lending me the Putnam motor and being my "motor guy" at the Raincity Slugfest 2003. The motor was fast. I could've qulaified better if it wasn't for my biggest blunder with the transponder. You know who I was. PM me with your e-mail. I'll see you next time.
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Old 11-09-2003, 11:46 PM   #96
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Can anyone express their opinion on the "proper" procedure of gearing a motor (albeit a stock or mod motor)? I'm not by any means a "newbie" on gearing a motor. It's just the fact that my experience on properly gearing a motor is taking a "recommended" gearing from the car manufacturer and use that as a start point and tweak it to the track layout. Is there a more finite procedure or this is the "black magic arts" in our R/C hobby? Can we specifically use the dyno results of motor manufacturers to gear our cars correctly without doing any testing or track-time? Any thoughts?
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Old 11-10-2003, 01:48 AM   #97
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Default motor gearing

I normally go with the motor temperature and what other guy run on a particular track. Gearing will vary on different motors so I think the temperature will be more accurate on what gearing is needed on a given time
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Old 11-10-2003, 02:32 PM   #98
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I also go with motor temp. I keep my stocks under 160. I have heard of alot of ppl going much higher but my motors last forever.
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Old 11-10-2003, 04:29 PM   #99
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TD, Any Time bud! It was my pleasure. We all had a great time on the weekend. You are right, The motors were smokin fast. We did have the fastest stuff out there hands down. Even the AXIOM guys were buying brushes from there.

We might come down to the next one.

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Old 11-11-2003, 06:12 PM   #100
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Hey Mike D, could you post your TC-3 and 1/12th scale setup you ran at DC Ultratrack. Also could you tell me what pinion and spur you used for 19t and 27t stock. Not to be picky or anything like that could you give me gearing instead of the roll out I would greatly appreciate your help thanx.
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Old 11-11-2003, 08:00 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally posted by noline
Hey Mike D, could you post your TC-3 and 1/12th scale setup you ran at DC Ultratrack. Also could you tell me what pinion and spur you used for 19t and 27t stock. Not to be picky or anything like that could you give me gearing instead of the roll out I would greatly appreciate your help thanx.
noline-

motor setup - standard Putnam brush cut and blue/green setup that come with the pretuned Monster motors. Two red springs in sedan and two green springs in 12th scale.

sedan - 35/98 with a 59 mm tire

12th - 30/96 with a 46 mm tire
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Old 11-12-2003, 06:31 PM   #102
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Squaring off the brushes on your 1/12 car is a recomendation Todd gave me. You should try it out with the green springs.

Please post if anyone has tried this.

J
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Old 11-12-2003, 06:36 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally posted by TakDrift
Can anyone express their opinion on the "proper" procedure of gearing a motor (albeit a stock or mod motor)? I'm not by any means a "newbie" on gearing a motor. It's just the fact that my experience on properly gearing a motor is taking a "recommended" gearing from the car manufacturer and use that as a start point and tweak it to the track layout. Is there a more finite procedure or this is the "black magic arts" in our R/C hobby? Can we specifically use the dyno results of motor manufacturers to gear our cars correctly without doing any testing or track-time? Any thoughts?
Suggest you find or make a rollout table. Once you find the gearing you like, You'll allways beable to run that despite tire wear.
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Old 11-13-2003, 12:44 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally posted by sands
Suggest you find or make a rollout table. Once you find the gearing you like, You'll allways beable to run that despite tire wear.
Thanks. But how about for the Putnam Stock motor. Since rubbers don't wear significantly the wear factor would be non-existent. What would be good rollout for the Putnam stock with rubbers.
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Old 11-13-2003, 07:47 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally posted by jzone
Squaring off the brushes on your 1/12 car is a recomendation Todd gave me. You should try it out with the green springs.

Please post if anyone has tried this.

J
Hey Jzone,

When you say "square off". do you mean to file the sides of the brush face down untill the face of the brush is a square? If so, I will run that this weekend in my YRX-12.

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