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Old 04-09-2007, 04:42 PM   #10381
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Originally Posted by chupstar1000
a general list of all your products
most of them should be on the website.i will work on getting the website updated with the latest stuff as soon as possible.thanks for your interest in our products.
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:51 PM   #10382
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Jason:

Hi,

Hows the 1/12th scale kits coming?????

LMK.


Thanks
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Old 04-10-2007, 07:27 PM   #10383
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Jason,

You've got PM bro
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:21 PM   #10384
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Originally Posted by protc3
if your track is on the bumpy side i would run a .062 T bar with 2 screws in the T bar,magenta front tires and grey or yellow rears.5000 wt. 1/8th diff oil in the tubes,.020 front springs with about .5mm front droop.30 wt. shock oil with silver center spring,1mm pod droop,172mm rear track width,165mm front width,4mm ride height front and rear,1 degree of camber and castor shims center(1 front and one rear of block,10 degree castor blocks,speed 8 body,full sauce rear tire and 1/2 of inside front.5000 wt. 1/8th diff oil on the kingpins.hmm,i think this should do the job.i hope i didnt miss anything.

The DB12 R is a car i am still working with.The car is working extremely well on both carpet and asphalt.i am still working with setup to get it better being that i am still new with it but as of right now,i am confident that it is light years ahead of anything on the market.being that i keep getting faster with experience with the new car,i am sold on the fact that it is going to have an extreme advantage over the competition.when i do get back into it,i will be going in full tilt with the DB12R as an extremely luxurious 1/12th full car.there is nothing that compares.this is going to make the competition step it up a few notches.

I race at the same track as Driftdreamer and run a identical car exept that mine has an adjustable battery position brace. Where would you position the batteries in the above posted setup? Could you also expain a little more on the front droop and the pod droop? What effects do these have on the car and how do you measure this?

On a different note. I have been driving a link car for most of this year and have recently switched to a t-bar car. Being new to t-bar cars could you please help with this question? I have been using a thick t-bar and the car was driving very well. If the only thing I switch is to use a thinner t-bar, what do I start with changing to get the car handling closer to where it was before the switch? I realize this is a vague question but I'm asking as a general rule all things being equal. What do you start with and what do you change next and next and next. In other words what equivalent changes does one make when changing t-bars and what are the general differences in handling one would expect. Thanks for the help. P.S. My BMI is the fastest car I driven to date.
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Old 04-12-2007, 12:58 PM   #10385
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jason any plans on making a fan mount for the cyclone so the motors dont get so warm
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Old 04-12-2007, 01:16 PM   #10386
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smyka, how did the cyclone chassis handle at race?
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Old 04-12-2007, 05:46 PM   #10387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinefire25
I race at the same track as Driftdreamer and run a identical car exept that mine has an adjustable battery position brace. Where would you position the batteries in the above posted setup? Could you also expain a little more on the front droop and the pod droop? What effects do these have on the car and how do you measure this?

On a different note. I have been driving a link car for most of this year and have recently switched to a t-bar car. Being new to t-bar cars could you please help with this question? I have been using a thick t-bar and the car was driving very well. If the only thing I switch is to use a thinner t-bar, what do I start with changing to get the car handling closer to where it was before the switch? I realize this is a vague question but I'm asking as a general rule all things being equal. What do you start with and what do you change next and next and next. In other words what equivalent changes does one make when changing t-bars and what are the general differences in handling one would expect. Thanks for the help. P.S. My BMI is the fastest car I driven to date.
i always run the batteries full back.the pod droop is measued by measuring your ride height,then lifting the car by the top of the center shock until the wheels are about to leave the ground.this uptravel is your pod droop.this will control the amount of weight transfer to the front by limiting the lift of the pod under deceleration.front droop is measured the same.i will adjust this with the shims on the kingpins.i do this so the front of the car doesnt hop on the bumps.it makes it a bit more smoothe.
if you change to a thin T bar you will want to shed some rear traction.going to a thinner tbar will increase your rear grip but make it better over the bumps.i usually try to tune it to the thin T bar by glueing the sidewalls of the rear tires.this will help free the rear back up and make the car not so notchy from the increase in rear bite.

glad you like the car buddy
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Old 04-12-2007, 05:50 PM   #10388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smyka
jason any plans on making a fan mount for the cyclone so the motors dont get so warm
yeah,after the 3 KD i smoked it has crossed my mind i will be gearing up within the next few weeks to get back into production again.my break from the R/C stuff should be finished in a week or 2.i am almost caught up with my regular work.i should be good to go soon
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Old 04-12-2007, 06:19 PM   #10389
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Hey Jay did you ever look at the P.O.S. I gave you at the birds? Trust me I am in no hurry....just curious.

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Old 04-12-2007, 06:43 PM   #10390
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not yet dude.i kinda forgot.i do have it at the shop though.i will check it out this weekend and see what i can do with it.
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:34 AM   #10391
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when do you need it back by eric?that lathe is a pretty complex piece and its gonna take me a bit to modify it to be the way we spoke about at the birds.
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Old 04-14-2007, 08:13 AM   #10392
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Complex? Ha - Isn't that your middle name Jason ...
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Old 04-14-2007, 08:45 AM   #10393
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Im in no hurry at all. How ever long it takes is fine....Hell after you get done keep it for a while and use it...LOL

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Old 04-14-2007, 10:15 PM   #10394
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Jason, do you have a replacement chassis for the XRAY 007, that is designed for asphalt? I have a pair of 007US cars, and I would be very interested in some BMI replacement chassis designed for asphalt.
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Old 04-15-2007, 05:02 AM   #10395
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i will be cutting 007 asphalt kits this week.i have the design complete and will have them ready to go by about tuesday or wednesday.
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Last edited by protc3; 04-15-2007 at 07:06 AM.
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