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Old 02-24-2004, 09:54 PM   #1726
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Nexus-

thanks....
Certain people who happen to work at a certain racetrack behind the counter on Saturday nights used to recommend a new graphite plastic chassis about every 3 months for the Tc3. There's a reason for that. The motor area just gets too hot for the mount to be 1/2 plastic.

I know when I was running a tc3, there was a big difference when you put a new car together. The BMI feels more like a new car.


Hey how bout a fat 3mm top deck for the PRo4???
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Old 02-25-2004, 06:25 AM   #1727
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robk...other bmi owners.


if that's the case....does the BMI chassis handle motor heat without warping?
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Old 02-25-2004, 08:47 AM   #1728
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Default warping??

Ive been running my BMI for a while now and have to say I've noticed no warping due to heat from the motor at all !! the car stays very consistant during my runs and keeps its tweak settings as well ,, not like the problems with the tub chassis.. I've even torched a motor in the car during a race and found no Ill effects due to the heat generated by a very cooked motor......
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:03 PM   #1729
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The reason the stock chassis warps is caused by the cam being enclosed all around and clamped down. I have a fix for this that works great. But still it'll still never come close to the quality and rigidity of the BMI, wich has a separate motor mount that isolates the heat from the chassis.
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:06 PM   #1730
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It would be pretty hard to warp a woven graphite chassis. But the stocks chassis is a different story....
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:08 PM   #1731
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whats that Speedie grind the bottom of the cam down? people did that years ago and it worked fine but its just cooler to get a new chassis that looks perty
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:37 PM   #1732
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Hi Everyone:

Torando_Racing:

Please re e mail me as I'm having problems with my ISP again.
your oval chassis looks great! (now I just hae to learn to just turn left )

Nexus:

as for the chassis (B.M.I.) warping it would be VERY hard to do. the alumium motor mount/bearinig support disapates heat alot better than the stock Assoc setup. and yes grindinig on the stock motor cam will help stop this on the stock tub chassis.
we have had motors in the upper 200 degrees( and one over 300) on the B.M.I. chasssis with no problems at all.

Jason:

please call me when you get a chance.


Fire:

there will be a Yokomo SD chassis soon. Jason is swamped with orders for the TC3 and Xray chassis right now.
please be patient.

Thanks
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:42 PM   #1733
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ok guys,a bunch of orders shipped today,tommorow more will follow.also carbon fiber withstands extreme heat.it is put under alot of heat during its construction.
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:45 PM   #1734
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Quote:
Originally posted by R/C Anonymous
whats that Speedie grind the bottom of the cam down? people did that years ago and it worked fine but its just cooler to get a new chassis that looks perty
Nope that wouldnt do any good. That was to help the cam clamp down better. Maybe you should pay attention to the competition when your at the track. Just wait there will be a BMI there soon to challenge your Cuda. Since my motors are already faster soon Ill have a faster chassis as well.
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:48 PM   #1735
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ok
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Old 02-25-2004, 03:57 PM   #1736
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i do pay attention at Trackside...its a learning experience everytime i go down there i thought grinding the bottom was to help with the expansion of the cam....all those tutorials were wrong then anyways....
the BMI doesn't need any mods.....Jason already thought of them...best aftermarket chassis out there right now for the TC3 IMO....
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Old 02-25-2004, 05:03 PM   #1737
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has anyone tryed using the
yok or pro4 steering rack an the bmi chassis
and does anyone think it will work
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Old 02-25-2004, 07:59 PM   #1738
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Jason... Did you get my PM last week?
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Old 02-25-2004, 08:06 PM   #1739
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na dude,inbox was full,sorry man.send it again
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Old 02-25-2004, 09:04 PM   #1740
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Just resent
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