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Old 01-21-2004, 03:01 PM   #3016
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Thumbs up High Voltage Cells

***NOTICE***

We are currently working overtime in both our matching facilities for more high voltage cells. The latest batch seemed to yield a wide range of numbers from good to GREAT! those that are looking for awesome packs for the upcoming Snowbirds Event in Florida and would like to be on the list, please email us at: [email protected] . We will be notifying and shipping base on the orders it was received via email. Thank you for your support!

Daniel
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Old 01-21-2004, 03:02 PM   #3017
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Fontaine
I need a new soldering iron as well.. I had one picked out, but forgot what it was now.
Hey John that one I used this weekend is the Ungar WES51. It is very nice and will melt puddles and puddles of solder. If you get one I can get you all kinds of tips for it as I have a local electronics store that carries all the tips and stuff for that iron.
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Old 01-21-2004, 03:31 PM   #3018
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PUNCHO...you have a PM
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:37 PM   #3019
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Decided to get the Hakko 936, found it on sale for cheap. 89 bucks on sale from 131! 60 watts is enough power to do the job and it sure beats the crappy one that is self destructing on me.
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:40 PM   #3020
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What website did you find it on??? I have been looking for a smaller station....
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:44 PM   #3021
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I'll send you PM tomorrow with the site. I have it at work.
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:44 PM   #3022
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Fontaine
Decided to get the Hakko 936, found it on sale for cheap. 89 bucks on sale from 131! 60 watts is enough power to do the job and it sure beats the crappy one that is self destructing on me.
That's the same one I have, they're alittle pricey but definitely worth the money
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:46 PM   #3023
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Dan, do you measure out the amount of solder to go each cell like Jimmy does?
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:51 PM   #3024
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Howard
That's the same one I have, they're alittle pricey but definitely worth the money
Matt, do you think the included 1.6mm tip to be too small to apply to RC applications? I ordered the 2.4mm tip as well.
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:59 PM   #3025
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Quote:
Originally posted by John Fontaine
Matt, do you think the included 1.6mm tip to be too small to apply to RC applications? I ordered the 2.4mm tip as well.
I dont have the Hakko iron, but I can say that the 1.6mm isn't going to do much for ya. I think my weller came with a 1/16" tip, but it was swapped out with a 3/16" tip.
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Old 01-21-2004, 09:00 PM   #3026
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Default soldering iron

got my Hakko 936 here....

http://www.kiesub.com/
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Old 01-21-2004, 10:56 PM   #3027
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Default Soldering

Quote:
Originally posted by JamesArluck
The hotter the iron and higher wattage and greater thermal mass allows you to melt the solder more quickly
Mmm..not quite. Thermal mass in this case is the same as real mass. A hotter iron that only has a few ounces of metal in the tip will have a much harder time than an iron that has 2x the actual mass and is 50 degrees cooler. I use a huge old 100W Weller pencil for my cells, with a 210/260W gun doing backup duty.

If it takes more than three seconds fromt he time you touch the iron to the cell and the time the joint is complete, you need a bigger iron. Same goes for connectors. Anything longer will start to seriously bork the cell or melt a connector housing.

As for Solder, 63/37 is the best for batteries, becasue it melts at the lowest point (183C) of all tin-lead blends, allowing the lease amount of solder time to be used, heating the cell the least.

The normal prep for soldering cells isn't to grind, buff, scrape, cut, or anything else. It's adding flux. Flux is the stuff inside the solder that cleans the joint. It liquifies at alower temperature, and will mostly vaporize during soldering. It acts to clean all the gunk (at a microscopic level) from the metal. I use Kester flux pens, that I picked up at my local full line electronics store. If you hit a search engine, you'll find a ton of places to get them. Make sure you only use rosin core solder. Acid core solder or acid flux will keep earing the connection and it will eventually fail. Bad news.

When I solder my cells it works like this:
Flux positive cell top, load with solder. Flux negative cell top.
Place battery bar, heat positive side until bar "falls" into place (<=3sec).
Solder negative side of bar.
Repeat.

I've soldered hundreds of cells like that over my RC career, and I've never killed one. Not coincidentally, it's a very close relative of the procedure that nuclear cetrified solder technicians use.

-dave
<who spent way too long analyzing solder joint failures under a microscope>
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:17 PM   #3028
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I have that goot iron you read about once in a while on here. The tip seems small but the whole iron glows red when you press the button and soldering cells is no sweat.
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Old 01-22-2004, 12:13 AM   #3029
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the kaster flux i can find only say soldering flux, but say which kind it is

how to identify them??
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Old 01-22-2004, 08:00 AM   #3030
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Default more racing for ya southern Cali Dudes and Dudets

Quote:
Originally posted by Maj. Teeth
You know it bro! "Work hard and play hard!"

Dan
and speaking of playing harder....

web site updated to more parking lot racing in Southern California.
http://www.racingrccars.com/racingthisweekend.htm

Nate
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