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Old 01-21-2004, 12:07 AM   #3001
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hey Dan,

thanks alot for the beers and the Jacks , let me know next time, i'll bring the Tequilla


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Old 01-21-2004, 12:31 AM   #3002
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Talking 101 pages !!

All those pages and ALL the support the R/C racers need .. THANK YOU FUKUYAMA ... I wonder how many pages well see in 2004.......
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:48 AM   #3003
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Dan YGM from some crazy guy callin himself Peter.
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Old 01-21-2004, 09:29 AM   #3004
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Default Re: 101 pages !!

Quote:
Originally posted by mb racer
All those pages and ALL the support the R/C racers need .. THANK YOU FUKUYAMA ... I wonder how many pages well see in 2004.......
We'll propably be near 450 pages by the end of this year...
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:56 AM   #3005
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I am currently looking for a new soldering iron, and come across this goot one with stable 480 deg Celsius heat range, is this one hot enough for soldering batteries?

btw the stated power consumption is 70W
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:06 PM   #3006
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fire
I am currently looking for a new soldering iron, and come across this goot one with stable 480 deg Celsius heat range, is this one hot enough for soldering batteries?

btw the stated power consumption is 70W
I use the 40watt Weller...and it's sufficient. 70w might be too hot and may damage the cells... excessive heat is the cells worst enemy.
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:36 PM   #3007
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I'm going to have to disagree with you rc-zombies. 480deg.C=896 Deg F which is just fine for soldering cells. The hotter the iron and higher wattage and greater thermal mass allows you to melt the solder more quickly, so the iron is on the cell less time, allowing less heat to penetrate deep into the cell. Most cell damage from soldering occurs when you use an iron that's not up to spec and you sit there and hold the iron on for a long time trying to get the solder to melt.
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:39 PM   #3008
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Quote:
Originally posted by JamesArluck
I'm going to have to disagree with you rc-zombies. 480deg.C=896 Deg F which is just fine for soldering cells. The hotter the iron and higher wattage and greater thermal mass allows you to melt the solder more quickly, so the iron is on the cell less time, allowing less heat to penetrate deep into the cell. Most cell damage from soldering occurs when you use an iron that's not up to spec and you sit there and hold the iron on for a long time trying to get the solder to melt.
hmm...may have to get me a new soldering iron...
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Old 01-21-2004, 01:06 PM   #3009
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I need a new soldering iron as well.. I had one picked out, but forgot what it was now.
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Old 01-21-2004, 01:49 PM   #3010
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Hakko 936 is the only way to go.......
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Old 01-21-2004, 01:55 PM   #3011
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RB, check your e-mail!
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:17 PM   #3012
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Rob, thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:36 PM   #3013
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Quote:
Originally posted by franksbodies
hey Dan,

thanks alot for the beers and the Jacks , let me know next time, i'll bring the Tequilla


frank
You know it bro! "Work hard and play hard!"

Dan
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:48 PM   #3014
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Check this place out for Soldering Irons. I was able to find parts for my Ungard UTC-300 wich in my opinion is the best iron ever too bad it no longer manufactured.

HMC ELECTRONICS
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:59 PM   #3015
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Default Soldering IRON

Looks like there's a debate going on with soldering IRONs. I've used both the Hakko and the Wellers. I personally preferred the Weller since its not as hot as the Hakko. When using the Hakko, it is very important to do it quickly so that you don't overheat the cells when soldering on the taps. Basically, there is no differences once you know how to solder correctly.

I've used the Hakko on 60/40 and the Weller on 63/37 Eutetic with silver content what some might call it the new NASA type solder. When using the Eutetic, the melting point is lower so works great at lower heat. Basically, the IR is lower slightly with 63/37.

Methods are:

Scuff the top and bottom of the cells so the solder will cling on better. Then tin it once the solder tip is hot enough by putting a very small amount of solder on the tip and touching the cells, this takes a fraction of a second per cell and should be done very quickly. Once the tin is applied, then simply align the bars and apply as little solder as possible on the top of the bar but enough to fill the holes and liquified the solder at which point the tip of the soldering iron should be removed. Again only taking a 1 second at most. The cells would be warm but not hot yet the soldering joint should be secure since the solder have liquified enough to flow onto and around the bars. I'll have a picture of the soldered pack for you guys to view once I get the digicam working. As long as you have a nice battery jig to do the job, then it is easy once you get the hang of it. *do note, that you DO NOT want to go over and over the bars with your hot iron. Just because you slightly messed up and applied too much solder on the bars or did a lousy job, make sure to let it thoroughly cooled before reapplying or fixing the solder. With a solder removal pump which can be had at your local electronic stores for under $10, it the best way to go if you need to remove excessive solder** Hope this all helps a little.

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