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Old 04-24-2008, 05:40 PM   #1396
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Joe,

I have not programmed the speed controller for anything. I updated the firmware via castle link to v1.17, calibrated the radio to the ESC and plugged the motor connections in.

Reading though the forum it seems that I should direct solder the motor to the speedo vice using the installed bullet plugs.

Is there a specific "stock" profile that I should be using?

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Originally Posted by Joe Ford View Post
The Castle Link will be included free with EVERY Monster Max. We're taking the USB connection off the next version of the Mamba Max...just so none of you are shocked when you see the next version without one. Still a ways off though...

majic...what do you have the ESC programmed for? Calibrated to the transmitter after updating the software? Let me know.
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Old 04-24-2008, 05:44 PM   #1397
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How does the punch control work on the Mamba? Is it a current limiter or is it a type of a time delay for full throttle.
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Old 04-24-2008, 05:54 PM   #1398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
took the t4 out again and ran it until the lipo cutoff kicked in to check run time, it went 10 minutes. what's the average length of a race, 5-6 minutes? the battery and esc temps were ok but the motor hit 214* at the end of the 10 minute run. should i drop the pinion size to help the motor temp or if the race is only 5-6 minutes the temp should be below 200*?
Well if your only running 5 or 6 minute races I would maybe drop a tooth or stay the same since you are under for the temp. If you running longer I would drop 2 to start and alos maybe run less timing. I normally don't over the Normal setting. Most of the time I run the low setting as more timing can cause more heat and especially if the gearing is off.
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Old 04-24-2008, 06:07 PM   #1399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd View Post
Well if your only running 5 or 6 minute races I would maybe drop a tooth or stay the same since you are under for the temp. If you running longer I would drop 2 to start and alos maybe run less timing. I normally don't over the Normal setting. Most of the time I run the low setting as more timing can cause more heat and especially if the gearing is off.
well that's just it, i haven't raced in a race yet. i'm guessing the off road races can't be far from the on road races, which are 5-6 minutes. someone tell me how long electric offroad truck races last. i'll make another run with the truck up to 6 minutes and check temps. if it's floating around the 200* mark then i'll gear down. here's how my esc is setup:

proportional w/o reverse
40% brake
reverse throttle 50%, but i have no reverse
punch control 10%
drag brake 20%
start power medium
motor timing normal
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Old 04-25-2008, 06:03 AM   #1400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
well that's just it, i haven't raced in a race yet. i'm guessing the off road races can't be far from the on road races, which are 5-6 minutes. someone tell me how long electric offroad truck races last. i'll make another run with the truck up to 6 minutes and check temps. if it's floating around the 200* mark then i'll gear down. here's how my esc is setup:

proportional w/o reverse
40% brake
reverse throttle 50%, but i have no reverse
punch control 10%
drag brake 20%
start power medium
motor timing normal
All the tracks I run at now have gone to 6 minute heat races and either 6 minute main or 7 minute mains.
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Old 04-25-2008, 02:40 PM   #1401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyd View Post
All the tracks I run at now have gone to 6 minute heat races and either 6 minute main or 7 minute mains.
7 minutes of track runtime gives me motor temps of 184*.

the motor/esc is a beast, it seems the truck gets faster as the battery, esc, motor temps go up. now i have not run a brushed mod truck but this combo is VERY fast and will pull the front tires anywhere on the track with a heavy trigger finger. so far i give it two thumbs up.
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Old 04-25-2008, 02:55 PM   #1402
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From what Castle Creation tech reps told me, the biggest influence on heat is motor timing.

for your settings:

proportional w/o reverse
40% brake
reverse throttle 50%, but i have no reverse
punch control 10%
drag brake 20%
start power medium
motor timing normal

I would recommend changing the following to:

start power: low
motor timing: lowest

Go from there and see how temps are and performance with your current gearing. Lowering the start power may also make the vehicle easier to control off the line as well.
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Old 04-25-2008, 03:02 PM   #1403
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i don't have a problem off the line or even driving for that matter but the front end becomes very light when the motor spools up. looks like a real sprint car pulling the front wheels down the front stretch.
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Old 04-25-2008, 04:44 PM   #1404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Ford View Post
The Castle Link will be included free with EVERY Monster Max. We're taking the USB connection off the next version of the Mamba Max...just so none of you are shocked when you see the next version without one. Still a ways off though...

majic...what do you have the ESC programmed for? Calibrated to the transmitter after updating the software? Let me know.
So actual mamba max will be collector :P
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Old 04-25-2008, 08:04 PM   #1405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOW ET View Post
7 minutes of track runtime gives me motor temps of 184*.

the motor/esc is a beast, it seems the truck gets faster as the battery, esc, motor temps go up. now i have not run a brushed mod truck but this combo is VERY fast and will pull the front tires anywhere on the track with a heavy trigger finger. so far i give it two thumbs up.
Yeah power is never a problem.: Keeping the front tires on the gound can be.
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Old 04-25-2008, 09:39 PM   #1406
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Fully realizing that my warranty is void, i am trying to unsolder the wires to my mamba max esc. They are not melting and i don't want them getting too hot that they damage the board or something. What kind of solder are they using?? I have a crazy hot iron that i don't use normally because it's too hot and that thing won't even melt the solder.

does anyone know the melting temp of the solder on the esc? What kind of witchcraft are they using???
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Old 04-25-2008, 09:44 PM   #1407
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cut the wire 1/4 inch or longer above the circuit board. and tin them. making them essentially soldering posts.. doesnt void the warrenty i dont think . correct me if im wrong.
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Old 04-25-2008, 09:47 PM   #1408
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rdur, unless they've changed something since they manufactured my two MMs, it's nothing special. The big thing is that the big heatsink and pcboard soak up a ton of heat, so you have to have a hot iron with a big tip, and good heat transfer (i.e. use the right amount of solder on the tip). It also helps to use a solder sucker or maybe solder wick to decrease the amount of solder you have to melt.
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Old 04-26-2008, 01:18 AM   #1409
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Thanks guys. I will give the hot iron another shot. I made the mistake of initially snipping the wires off at the base thinking that it would be easier to unsolder what was left. I had another max esc sitting around and i left a half inch lead from that one and that worked fine.

It was a bummer to read several hours later that i had just voided the warranty on the first one, though.
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Old 04-26-2008, 09:12 AM   #1410
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Does anyone know if the Mamba Monster Max comes with the Castle Link?

I know it says castle link ready or whatever on the page, but doesnt' explicitly say the castle link is included out the box.

Also, is it possible to just get the link part, not the USB cable? as I already have several of these.
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