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Old 09-19-2007, 02:16 AM   #856
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If you want to keep up with the nitro guys you best solution will be 6 cells and the 3.5. You will need a higher FDR but I am sure you will be much faster then you are now.

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Old 09-19-2007, 07:24 AM   #857
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i don't race with the nitro guys but the lap times are similar. the track has a semi-flowing/semi-technical infield as well thats so i was wondering if the 5 cell would make the car more drivable.
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Old 09-19-2007, 03:00 PM   #858
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oh btw steve, the 4600 clears the new triple at PS at 1/2 throttle haha

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Old 09-20-2007, 05:14 PM   #859
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Good to hear the Max is running these motors fairly well. I have been running 1/8th scale all summer and for the first time in many years will be running indoor off road this winter. Got my T4 truck and am ready to roll.

I will be trying out these Novak motors as well as the Orion and Tekin motors as well. I am planning on also trying the new SMC Li-Po batteries. Should be a very fun winter.

Later,
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Old 09-20-2007, 05:21 PM   #860
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would i void warranty if i change wires while installing a non-Castle Creations moter like Orion ?
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Old 09-20-2007, 05:36 PM   #861
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Quote:
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would i void warranty if i change wires while installing a non-Castle Creations moter like Orion ?
yes you would
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Old 09-20-2007, 06:03 PM   #862
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oh well...... looking at the way i have it installed now i think i already voided it. thats sucks...... but its a great esc and seems to pretty solid. *knock*Knock*knocK* (on wood)
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Old 09-21-2007, 07:45 AM   #863
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As long as you do not solder or unsolder wires from the circuit board itself you are fine. But if you unsolder the wires from the circuit board and solder new wires on then yes you do void the warranty.

I am hoping that we are going to go with solder posts in the future.

Later,
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Old 09-21-2007, 09:14 AM   #864
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i have realise when i am on the start line it seems when i pull the trigger the mamba motor jumps back a little before it goes forward any help on that.
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Old 09-21-2007, 12:13 PM   #865
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guys leave 1/2-1in of the factory wire in place and butt-solder (did i just say that?) ur connections to them. if not usin the entire wire like u do when u eliminate the factory connectors. brushed guys u can do this too, last in to the PCB intact, but u instead use a battery bar or 'bypass wire' across the line for your brushed setup.

granted all of u after 1yr shouldnt fret over the warranty anyway, as it would be over by then.

i do feel sorry for those like me who are lookin for LESS power on the track. such a horrible problem to deal with ha.

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Old 09-24-2007, 10:54 AM   #866
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When I started I had the punch control in low setting. With this setting there was cogging when trying to pull away slowly. If I just pushed the throttle there was no cogging. When I changed the punch control to it's highest setting the cogging was allot less. I then changed the throttle curve and once I did this the cogging disappeared. The motor was very smooth. The other settings that I changedwas the drag brake but it was not for the cogging. I have to say that the Orion motor timing on the back was not in the center like it says in the manual but about 2 mm to left.

I will post later a picture of the throttle cure.
What changes did you do to the throttle curve? Move it up down? Multiple points?
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Old 09-24-2007, 11:01 AM   #867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bighurt98 View Post
What changes did you do to the throttle curve? Move it up down? Multiple points?
You can see the the curve on the previuos page. I placed two points to get the curve.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1189345176

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Old 09-24-2007, 12:37 PM   #868
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what about motor maintenance how regular should you clean the motor,do castle creation have a maintenance time period and is there any pic on how to pull down the motor.
thanks
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Old 09-24-2007, 12:48 PM   #869
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Default Slow Vortex 3.5 and Mamba ESC

For some reason my Vortex 3.5 is slower than other using LRP or Novak 3.5 motors...Its as fast as a Novak 5.5...which sucks...I know it can go faster, much faster, but have reset my settings and forgot to write them down. I have gone back to the track and now my system is slower...

I am gearing at 10.5FDR 102/21 64P on my Serpent S400. Thank goodness the car handles very well and I can hand with the faster cars, but the speed is killing me.

Start power: low
Puch: unlimited
Drag: none
Timing: normal
BL/Lipo
Throttle curve: stock/linear

What can it be? I suspenct its the timing on the vortex motor! I opened the Orion Vortex motor once a few weeks ago to clean it out and I think the timing is off where it came stock for the 3.5...Anyone know the correct stock position for this motor or recommend a good "fast position" that wont over heat the motor?
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:28 PM   #870
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The letter B should be in center with the center solder tab. I have mine about 2 mm to the right of the center. I cleaned my as well thinking that the timing was only for the sensor esc but I was wrong. The motor did not even want to turn.

Try 102/23. I am running a FDR of 9.86 on my T2.

I hope this helps.

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