Drift Demon

iTrader: (1)

Before I start off - I know pulling apart the motor voids the warranty

Has anyone ever taken a CMS36 apart & tried to remove the bearings? I feel my bearings have somewhat worn down a little bit, and if there's a way to replace the bearings id rather do that instead of buying another $90 motor...

Drift Demon

iTrader: (1)

I have been thinking about grabbing an orion vortex for a while for my mamba Max. What vortex motor would be near the equivelant of the MM4600?

CrazyRonny

iTrader: (5)

Just asking myself if it could be done???

Could a Mamba25 system that is made for 1/18 can power a really light 1/10 size buggy?

stickman310

iTrader: (10)

Any update on the new software update for the ESC's that allows you the run sensored motors with no problems?? I really want to get a mamba max but dont want to be left out in the blue and limited to just the mamba motors, just incase sensorless aren't allowed to race at my track.

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

well the 4600 was happy at home in the b4. the new car was better to drive than the CR and i had plenty of ponies on the loose track.

more to come later, entertainin idea of TC still (thus the speedo, 13.5 plz hah)...but right now have 3 pts races left and i'd like to get some more podiums.

R

Drift Demon

iTrader: (1)

On the mamba max esc, there are 2 hex screws. are these used to mount the mainboard to the casing? I'd just like to know so i can solder wires on the mainboard a little easier if i can remove the casing.

I know itll void the warranty, but can you remove/cut the on/off switch??

imjonah

My 1/18th Vendetta ST was un-driveable this last Sunday pretty much wasted the day. After stuttering for 10 secs it would take off but when I slowed down for a corner it would come to stop and just stutter advance an inch stutter advance another inch then take off to repeat the same thing. Had to pick it up after 1/2 a lap. I read a lot of posts here. My battery was a 1500 freashly charged my radio checked out fine when I replaced the mamba with a regular ESC and brushed motor.
I think it has something to do with the initial load on the motor. My Xray M18 had occasional cogging but essentially worked OK. The Vendetta is a little low geared and heavier but that should not cause a motor to behave this badly.

I find it hard to believe the stock bullet connectors are inadequate. Obviously many people run with them and do not have cogging problems.

Is it the case that certain motors or certain batches are borderline or more prone ot these cogging problems?

xtaiji

I have sent this but they do not reply yet.

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Dear Joe Ford,

I have received my MM(repair invoice No:56895) and IT'S STOP AGAIN DURING A TEST RUN!
Furthermore it has a stutter problem till now. I have been trying everything, soldering wires directly together, buy 7.4V lipo packs 3800mAh 20C and change ESC settings etc. but still STUTTER. What is my fault? If nothing, Let me know how can I refund this.

B.S.
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Yesterday, I tried something. The same radio, motor, battery, pinion and all other things. Only I substituted the MM by S&T(used by Hara in Korea Nationals).
No stutter, super smooth responce. What is my fault??? I hope they refund my MM.

stickman310

iTrader: (10)

Hi guys,
I'm looking into the Mamba Max again because I might need a new ESC. I've heard good and bad about this ESC (mostly good, but the bad was from good friends of mine) and I just wanted to hear it straight from some of you guys - has anyone had any problems with their mamba's like it just dieing or conking out and so forth? Any thoughts from someone who has used both novak/lrp brushless motors? Also, how do they run with sensored motors? I know I've asked before but I just couldn't remember

Thanks!

wyd

iTrader: (51)

When your dealing with electronics anything is possible. I seen almost every brand speedo from LRP, Tekin, Novak, KO, and others that have problems. Every brand can have a faulty unit. No one brand is perfect.

I personally have had brand new units not work from the package on several occasions but in 24 plus years and the amount of speedos that I have used I chalk it up to shit happens.

mooony

I ran the mamba max with a orion vortex 3.5 last night. I had to make some changes like punch control and throttle control. Once I made these changes the motor was running smoothly. I am really happy with this combo.

Ronald

88wingnut

mooony> what changes did you make exactly? id be interested to know and im sure many others also. thanks bud.

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

well, lookin to repurpose my castle unit when offroad is done for year. since there really isnt a 13.5 sensorless BL motor out there yet. either the thing is gonna sit or perhaps drive a 540 motor in either a tamiya f103gt (b/c of lipo) or in a touring car (GT3 specfication=540 motor) b/c i could run stock if GT3s dont show w/a motor swap.

sadly TCs are $$$$ to run, so i'm not down with that. dont want to run at the 1 indoor offroad track b/c its now purposed for 1/8s and it really beats on the car (not to mention u have to run on slix, yes slix). the speedo is too big for my 1/12 that i will be running.

ugh so many choices. i even thought bout puttin it in my fiance's new spec car (TT01) and stuffin 1 lipo in it and lettin here run 30min practice sessions hahaha.

gotta love this piece. i have no issue notchin any chassis for that usb port now!!!! did i just say that?

R

imjonah

You can disregard my previous question about cogging. I spoke with Castle Creation's tech support this morning, they were very knowledgeable and helpful. They gave me some valuable information and advice. I think I understand how brushless work a little better and how to make them work better with my Vendetta.
Thanks,

mooony

When I started I had the punch control in low setting. With this setting there was cogging when trying to pull away slowly. If I just pushed the throttle there was no cogging. When I changed the punch control to it's highest setting the cogging was allot less. I then changed the throttle curve and once I did this the cogging disappeared. The motor was very smooth. The other settings that I changedwas the drag brake but it was not for the cogging. I have to say that the Orion motor timing on the back was not in the center like it says in the manual but about 2 mm to left.

I will post later a picture of the throttle cure.