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Old 05-06-2007, 07:09 AM   #481
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lookin for ideas on adjustin the parameters (particularily the curves) for standing starts. i'm gettin hosed off the line in the final. went from 5th to 10th yesterday and couldnt fight the issue.

thx

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Old 05-06-2007, 08:03 AM   #482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phroz
I have noticed that some IB4200 packs are matched for 20A discharge and some 35A discharge. What would be best for a Mamba max 7700?

Cheers,

Ben.
Any matched IB4200s will be just fine with the 7700.

Later,
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Old 05-06-2007, 01:40 PM   #483
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ulte, I'm also loosing time on the starts in mains. That's the price you pay for buying the cheapest system on the market.
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Old 05-06-2007, 04:31 PM   #484
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I have never been fond of changing the throttle curve on mine. As for starts, i found that if you go full yank you could get a studder and lose time, but i have always just started to roll on it and then pull hard after its going. Trust me, less trigger off the line is a good thing, it gets you going straighter.

Running a medium start power will help off the line if you can't go smooth on the trigger, high just chrips out diffs so no need for that.
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Old 05-06-2007, 06:56 PM   #485
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I have never had any problems on starts with my systems. In touring car or off-road truck, buggy or 4wd buggy.

Please post all of your esc settings so we can try and help.

Later,
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Old 05-07-2007, 08:38 AM   #486
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I had the same problem at the start of race a couple of time... it happen when the car stay at the starting line to long before the race started... I get smash from the guy at the back of the starting line because my car take to much time to react...

It happen with bot my 2wd and 4wd offroad buggy.
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Old 05-07-2007, 08:48 AM   #487
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Crash or Joe,

Any reply to my question about the front end of the can being rotated would be greatly appreciated. I couldn't run my 4cell class on Friday becuase I couldn't mount the motor. I need to know if the drive end of the can is able to be turned? It has the same 3 screws as the back end of the can but with those screws out it won't budge.
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Old 05-07-2007, 09:02 AM   #488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gndprx
Crash or Joe,

Any reply to my question about the front end of the can being rotated would be greatly appreciated. I couldn't run my 4cell class on Friday becuase I couldn't mount the motor. I need to know if the drive end of the can is able to be turned? It has the same 3 screws as the back end of the can but with those screws out it won't budge.
That end of the can is fixed. I believe it is glued in place. Call Joe and I am sure he can help you out.

913-390-6939 Ext. 119

Later,
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Old 05-07-2007, 09:56 AM   #489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gone_wheelin
Has anyone tried installing the v2.24 software and connecting a MM that they could not connect to before? I'm curious if I will be able to do so or if I will need to contact MM for a possible replacement.
Well I had a chance to install the new v2.24 of the Castle Link software and was able to get in to my MM after previously not being able to with v2.23. Although, after one run of the car, I am no longer able to connect to the MM with the Castle Link software.

I have a feeling that it has something to do with running the car because I was able to connect again after a reboot/restart prior to running the car. I have another computer I am going to try this on to confirm though.

What gives? Any thoughts?

EDIT: I should add that I never powered on the ESC after programming with the Castle Link software prior to running it in practice. I will be trying this next time to see if powering it on causes some issue.
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Old 05-07-2007, 01:26 PM   #490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gone_wheelin
Well I had a chance to install the new v2.24 of the Castle Link software and was able to get in to my MM after previously not being able to with v2.23. Although, after one run of the car, I am no longer able to connect to the MM with the Castle Link software.

I have a feeling that it has something to do with running the car because I was able to connect again after a reboot/restart prior to running the car. I have another computer I am going to try this on to confirm though.

What gives? Any thoughts?

EDIT: I should add that I never powered on the ESC after programming with the Castle Link software prior to running it in practice. I will be trying this next time to see if powering it on causes some issue.
I had the same problem with older software. They ended up sending me a new speed control and I haven't had a problem since.
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Old 05-08-2007, 01:41 AM   #491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRASH
Any matched IB4200s will be just fine with the 7700.

Later,
A few guys are suggesting that the 35a packs are the way to go? whats the actual advantage? i guess i can see an advantage if your running stock motors etc.. but with the mamba max 7700 getting more power is realy NOT an issue lol.

When i do race stock its realy just for fun.. even though the club has a transponder set etc. The guys at the top are spending thousands lol so i dont bother trying to keep up.

I guess what i'm wondering is whats best for the over all health of the mamba system and the car. Extra speed wont realy motivate me to spend more money.. but longer life of the motor, ecs, batts and car will.

Last edited by Phroz; 05-08-2007 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 05-08-2007, 04:47 AM   #492
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Mate, a suggestion, get a 20A pack and 35A pack and see for yourself. My opinion is if you're racing for just fun and stuff and your after matched packs, economy packs will be perfectly fine with your 7700... Are you allowed to run lipo, get a 2 cell and flog em all!!
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Old 05-08-2007, 07:35 PM   #493
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5700 motor in a CR. buddies on 12Ts are runnin a ratio of 21/82.

i'm presently usin 19/86, thoughts suggestions. kinda lost on gearing for this brushless. higher or lower than a brushed equiv.

thx

R
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Old 05-08-2007, 07:46 PM   #494
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I have a 5700 in a tamiya tb-02.
I want to buy a 3S 11.1v lithium for this motor to run against the nitro cars on the local track. I spoke to castle creations and they said to gear it as high as I can and keep the motor temp below 200. Does anybody have any guesses how many amps this will be pulling? I want to make sure that I buy enough battery to handle the amp load.

thanks,
tim
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:03 PM   #495
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Tim
Unsure with what room you have but i am sure you are going to be limited to a 3300 3s 11.1v pack.

You will needa minimun 20c constant rating The higher the better.

it will also depend on your track size for gearing (but really anything will be the go ) As stated just watch motor temps)

I played with the 5700 in an ssg Yoke on the 3 cell. I had noproblems catching and passing the Nitro guys on are track Biggest problem was tring to stop the scud at the end of the straights. It was "sick"
You will have to wind back your adjustments or be very soft and kind on your throttle finger.

I never completed a race. The diffs and some of the drive train just didnt take the low down grunt.

But on saying this i had most of the setting to max.

-Tony
Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_speed
I have a 5700 in a tamiya tb-02.
I want to buy a 3S 11.1v lithium for this motor to run against the nitro cars on the local track. I spoke to castle creations and they said to gear it as high as I can and keep the motor temp below 200. Does anybody have any guesses how many amps this will be pulling? I want to make sure that I buy enough battery to handle the amp load.

thanks,
tim
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