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Old 03-30-2011, 05:11 PM   #2296
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Sure why not. As long as you stick to 2S or 3S you can. I have run de Castle 2200Kv with a VXL. However, the connectors on that ESC are too small and will get hot, it's a matter of time before they break. Also the VXL has a name to develop problems with the Lipo cutoff resulting in early cutoff when your Lipo is still full. Happened to me as well. When you get the chance I would buy a MMP. I run my Neu 1512 with one and the MMP does not get hotter then 30-35 degrees Celcius and the fan doesn't even come on. The VXL however got too hot to touch.
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Old 06-25-2011, 09:13 AM   #2297
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Today I had my car running and then it suddenly just stopped and all the LED's were on solid. It won't recalibrate or anything, what's wrong with it?
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Old 07-10-2011, 02:09 AM   #2298
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Can the brushless Sensored Tekin 17.5 run with the castle sidewinder? I bought the Tekin, hooked it up, and the motor has no power at all. Transmitter and castle software show everything at full power, but something just isn't feeding the motor much power. Thoughts?
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Old 07-23-2011, 11:06 AM   #2299
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Hi can I run a Novak 380 10.5t with 16g wires on a mamba max pro?
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:20 PM   #2300
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Hey guys I have a HPI Vorza with the Blur (MMM) esc... I am familiar with the castle creations method of manual programming with the transmitter from my MERV and SV2 esc...

I am not able to enter programming mode with the Blur, when I hold the throttle to full and turn Blur ESC on, I hear the 4 beeps, I keep holding and another 4 beeps... I release throttle... in the manual for the vorza it states this is auto lipo mode programming so I pull full throttle and it beeps green saying auto lipo mode on. Then it beeps and goes to yellow led. yellow led means neutral... How do I get to programming mode on the Blur ESC???? I don't want to buy the castle link. PLease help or am I missing something and the Blur ESC is locked down or doesn't allow manual programming? sigh....
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:56 PM   #2301
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Default MMM and possible LVC error

Guys,

Love the MMM in my 8ight-E 2.0--going on my 3rd year running the ESC. Each year I can notice the increased stability. Only went through one this year and was from a bad crash that ripped the wires out!

Anyway, my current MMM (lots of mileage) seems to be hitting the LVC much sooner than it should. Is this even a possible glitch? I have the LVC set to 3.2V/cell and would normally have no trouble making 15-min mains. Now all of a sudden it seems like my batts will be dumping at 6 - 9 minutes (often during the qualifiers). Based on voltage and mAh readings I suspect the ESC. Thoughts? Thanks,

- Will "Danger" Robinson
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Old 09-07-2011, 06:32 PM   #2302
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Hey guys! i recently bought a momba monster esc, and is running 4s and a tacon motor on an emaxx. I have had the set up for about one month now and today the speed controller is really glitchy and it restarts when I hit the throttle and/or flashes orange. I keep it in constant temp checks and it has never exceeded 150 degrees.
If I could just get some help to see whats up. Thanks.
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Old 10-15-2011, 08:02 AM   #2303
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will the castle link software differentiate between different models of esc's? i have a 1/18 micro sidewinder, 1/10 sidewinder v2, and a 1/8 mamba monster. there wont be a problem using them all on the same computer, will there? the reason i ask is there's different firmware for mamba and sidewinder units.
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Old 10-15-2011, 08:21 AM   #2304
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Dbl post
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Old 10-15-2011, 08:24 AM   #2305
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It's all-in-one software. It can tell the difference between the controllers and will only let u program the settings available for that ESC. Same with the software setting for the different ESCs.
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Old 10-18-2011, 06:15 PM   #2306
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Is there a pinout diagram or picture to see where to re-solder my switch back on a Mamba Max 1/10th ESC?
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:18 AM   #2307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rced1 View Post
Is there a pinout diagram or picture to see where to re-solder my switch back on a Mamba Max 1/10th ESC?
Just take the switch out and solder the wires together.
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Old 10-19-2011, 05:31 PM   #2308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t9dragon View Post
Just take the switch out and solder the wires together.
Thanks for the suggestion, but I need to know where the wires go on the circuit board so I can make a bridge or attach the wires back to the ESC.
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:28 PM   #2309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rced1 View Post
Thanks for the suggestion, but I need to know where the wires go on the circuit board so I can make a bridge or attach the wires back to the ESC.
If your wires have detached from the PCB there should be little mystery where they were soldered once you open the case. Solder a bridge to create a short and you are done. I run the MMM in outdoor 8th and immediately remove the switch on every ESC or run the risk of losing a race due to a switch that cannot handle a little dust.
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:44 AM   #2310
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Could someone post a picture?

Mine is not evident enough for me to see. I have created some of my own circuit boards before so it is not like I am a complete newby at this.

Thanks in advance.
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