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Old 01-19-2009, 08:34 AM   #1816
wyd
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no complaints from BL dept yet again this wk. Fire and forget is best way to put it.

2wd Mod Buggy. Tight Bullring, big jumps, dry clay.

25% Reverse (warmup)
50% Brake
40% D. Brake
60% PC
Normal Timing
0% SP
NC Dead Band
3.2v cutoff.

Brake Curve-Linear
Throttle Curve-Linear but scale pulled down from top. Similar to moving top of shock in a hole or 2. Leaves big spike to WOT at top. Clip this off with -5% EPA on Loud 'pedal'.

R
You have yours cut back more than I do. I run 20% Punch Control on mine with low start power and I think normal timing but I will have to check that to be sure Tuesday when I run practice. I do plan on changing some speedo setups to alot less drag brake and try using more push brake. Just want to see how that feels for me.

My car was gret this week for me again. The speedo/motor and car setup are working gret together and are about as smooth as I have ever had it. I will try some small changes on Tuesday and see what they do for me.
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Old 01-22-2009, 07:10 PM   #1817
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Default CC BEC Placement

I was wondering if there would be any ill-effects from placing my CC BEC inside the Receiver/Servo Box on the steering servo. I currently have it mounted to the side of this box and I was thinking there was room to move it inside the box, on top of the servo to prevent if from getting impaled on a stick (I'm always pulling stick out of out of the suspension and chassis several times every run), and to reduce some of the visible chassis clutter. The CC BEC for some reason reminds be of a blue wad of goo. I'm wondering if the servo would produce bad vibriations, heat, or EMI that could cause the CC BEC to fail, or if the CC BEC would interfere with radio reception since it would be just that much closer to the antenna wire and the 2.4G receiver.
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Old 01-24-2009, 09:59 PM   #1818
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Joe,
I received a MMM/2200kV motor combo and installed it in my 8ight a few days ago. Wow, it's awesome. I can't believe the power and how user friendly it is. When I fired it up I experienced a lot of low speed hesitation and cogging, both at low speeds or at startup. I dinked around a bit with the castle link setting and eliminated the low speed problems, it's quite smooth at low speeds now. But it still hesitates at startup, more than I'd like. Any tips to improving this? I have the most recent version of the firmware installed (1.20). Any tips would be helpful. Thanks!
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Old 01-24-2009, 11:14 PM   #1819
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DARKWAV...the CC BEC will interfere with the receiver...any switching BEC (or ESC or motor for that matter) would do this. They produce electrical noise. Keep it at least 2-3" away from the receiver and antenna.

Ryandrea,

What batteries are you using specifically? Manufacturer, capacity, and C rating? What battery connectors are you using? What do you have motor start power, timing, and punch control set for? Calibrated the ESC to the radio (full throttle, full brake, neutral...in the manual). Let me know.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:22 AM   #1820
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Ryandrea,

What batteries are you using specifically? Manufacturer, capacity, and C rating? What battery connectors are you using? What do you have motor start power, timing, and punch control set for? Calibrated the ESC to the radio (full throttle, full brake, neutral...in the manual). Let me know.
The battery (see photo above) is a Zippy Rhino, 20C continuous, 5S (18.5V) 4900mAH.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7654

I'm using deans plugs for connections for the battery, they're generic deans but they work as well as the originals for what I can tell.

Motor start power = Low
Timing = Lowest
Punch Control = 30%

I followed the instructions included with the ESC for calibration. I then realized my transmitter had some setting changed so I had to recalibrate (reverted throttle and throttle trim were off) But after resetting the transmitter to original settings and performing the calibration again it seems to work great now for throttle, brake and neutral.

I'll be honest, my soldering job isn't the best either, I'm not sure if that might affect it. It's soldered somewhat thick and messy, but well enough to have shrink tubing cover it. The ESC's also somewhat close to the receiver. This was a recent change though and hasn't made any negative changes (interference) when the ESC was at the far end of the car.
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:35 AM   #1821
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Soldering job definitely has an impact. I would recommend going with real Deans as well...the knock offs look the same, but we found the resistance to be higher in our testing. Turn your motor start power up as well...this helps getting heavy vehicles rolling over easier. It only affects the first 1/4 turn of the motor.
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:29 AM   #1822
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will the sidewinder esc run 4 cell nihm
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:13 PM   #1823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Ford View Post
Soldering job definitely has an impact. I would recommend going with real Deans as well...the knock offs look the same, but we found the resistance to be higher in our testing. Turn your motor start power up as well...this helps getting heavy vehicles rolling over easier. It only affects the first 1/4 turn of the motor.
Cool, I'll try those and see if it help. Thanks!
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:28 PM   #1824
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will the sidewinder esc run 4 cell nihm
It will, but you'd have to disable the BEC on the controller and power the servo and receiver from a separate battery pack. The BEC on the controller will put out 5v...a fully charged 4 cell pack is 6v. If the voltage drops below 5v the servo is going to slow down more and more throughout the run.
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Old 01-26-2009, 05:04 PM   #1825
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Does the CC programming software support 64 bit Windows yet?
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Old 01-26-2009, 08:05 PM   #1826
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It's worked with Vista 64 since release, but it won't work with the Mamba Max unfortunately. Difference in the way the MM connects versus the Castle Link programming board. Vista 64 doesn't like it.

Click on this link, and save the file to your desktop. When it completes, right click on the file and choose "run as administrator". It should install properly after that.

http://www.castlecreations.com/downl...nstall_312.exe
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Old 01-26-2009, 08:13 PM   #1827
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any idea on a piece that could be used in a touring car. in case i do it b/c i'm moving to a place w/3 touring car tracks close by. that and so reigle can have an excuse to go dive back into that lot b4 nationals come to our backyard.

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Old 01-26-2009, 08:13 PM   #1828
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Damn Joe do you ever stop working!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:35 PM   #1829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Ford View Post
It's worked with Vista 64 since release, but it won't work with the Mamba Max unfortunately. Difference in the way the MM connects versus the Castle Link programming board. Vista 64 doesn't like it.

Click on this link, and save the file to your desktop. When it completes, right click on the file and choose "run as administrator". It should install properly after that.

http://www.castlecreations.com/downl...nstall_312.exe
So I should be able to program the MM with the castle link connector, in that case, right? The lack of 64 bit support is the main reason I'm still using 32 bit, lol.
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Old 01-26-2009, 09:56 PM   #1830
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So I should be able to program the MM with the castle link connector, in that case, right? The lack of 64 bit support is the main reason I'm still using 32 bit, lol.
You only need a USB to micro USB cord...you plug directly into the side of the MM...it will work fine on 32bit...it won't on 64bit. Unfortunately, you can't plug the MM into the real Castle Link to program either.

Brian...I do, but I'm feeling super productive today.

ultegrasti...what do you mean "a piece"?
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