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Old 10-18-2008, 10:57 PM   #1696
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I can't program my Mamba Max anymore because the Castle Link software does not see it on the PC. I checked everything and tried a different USB cable without success. Anybody has an idea of the Pb?

Have you tried pluging in the battery and then the caslte link and then turn the esc on?
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Old 10-19-2008, 03:18 PM   #1697
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you shouldnt have to turn the esc on, because when you plug it into the comp via usb, its getting its power from the PC to light up the LEDs. You could always try it, but i doubt thats going to help ya out, i could always be wrong too!!!
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Old 10-19-2008, 04:15 PM   #1698
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you shouldnt have to turn the esc on, because when you plug it into the comp via usb, its getting its power from the PC to light up the LEDs. You could always try it, but i doubt thats going to help ya out, i could always be wrong too!!!
I have used that method several times on the Mamba 25 and Mamba Max esc's. For some unknown reason the PC wouldn't reconize the ESC's but once I pluged the battery in the software would reconize the ESC's............
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Old 10-19-2008, 05:16 PM   #1699
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thats really strange, maybe some PCs need esc's power source in order to recognise it, ive never had to do that with my MM though...
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Old 10-19-2008, 05:19 PM   #1700
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I have only done it that way when the computer wouldn't reconize the link or the esc.....................
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Old 10-21-2008, 08:47 AM   #1701
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Anybody have any suggestions for running a 5.5 on a MM? Currently when I run it it runs great and smooth (even from take off) until about 3-4 mins into a run then if you stop it most likely will not start moving again (gets progressively worse) temps aren't 150-160 range. Any help would be appreciated
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Old 10-21-2008, 05:53 PM   #1702
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Originally Posted by rockstar81 View Post
Anybody have any suggestions for running a 5.5 on a MM? Currently when I run it it runs great and smooth (even from take off) until about 3-4 mins into a run then if you stop it most likely will not start moving again (gets progressively worse) temps aren't 150-160 range. Any help would be appreciated
To me that sounds all like the battery cannot put out the power to the motor and speedo after it runs for for that 3 or 4 minutes. I don't think the battery is strong enough.

I would try a good lipo pack if you have a buddy or someone that has a good highend matched NIMH pack. I would try this first and see what happens for you.
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Old 10-21-2008, 06:43 PM   #1703
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Anybody have any suggestions for running a 5.5 on a MM? Currently when I run it it runs great and smooth (even from take off) until about 3-4 mins into a run then if you stop it most likely will not start moving again (gets progressively worse) temps aren't 150-160 range. Any help would be appreciated
What battery are you using? brand, mah, lipo, nimh, nicad
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Old 10-22-2008, 03:22 AM   #1704
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2 things.

1 - battery plug, when it starts doing it, check to see if the plug is warm or not. exact same thing happened to me, i was using venom 'deans style' plugs & found them to be the problem, they would heat up, resistance.

2 - check your on/off switch, i cut mine off because it was not making proper contact, meaning id have it in the on position & the slightest 'tap' would trigger it to turn off, cutting the switch off & soldering the wires together certainly fixed that problem...
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Old 10-22-2008, 06:59 AM   #1705
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What battery are you using? brand, mah, lipo, nimh, nicad
I have tried most of my batteries, Reedy 5000 lipo, Losi 5000 lipo, Venom 5000 lipo, and others. I am using real deans, I have ran a Tekin 2.5r with no issues. Wires get a little warm but not particularly the connector. I also tried reflowing all my solder joints. Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks for your input guys.
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:40 AM   #1706
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I have a suggestion for you When your car stops look at the speedo, are there any LED's on or flashing ??? If the LED's are flashing it's telling you whats wrong. I don't have the flashing code with me now but you can look it up on the Castle site.

Last edited by Lazer Guy; 10-23-2008 at 09:23 AM.
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Old 10-22-2008, 09:52 AM   #1707
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Originally Posted by rockstar81 View Post
I have tried most of my batteries, Reedy 5000 lipo, Losi 5000 lipo, Venom 5000 lipo, and others. I am using real deans, I have ran a Tekin 2.5r with no issues. Wires get a little warm but not particularly the connector. I also tried reflowing all my solder joints. Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks for your input guys.
Do you have the LVC set for the lipos you are using?
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Old 10-22-2008, 03:14 PM   #1708
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I have the cutoff set to auto lipo and it always seems to detect them properly.
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Old 10-22-2008, 03:33 PM   #1709
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1 flash = Start failure
2 flash's= low voltage cut off
3 flash's =Over current
4 flash's =prop strike or some thing locked up
5 flash's =poor radio signal

I've found this helpful if my car stops.

Last edited by Lazer Guy; 10-23-2008 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 10-24-2008, 08:51 PM   #1710
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just got my mamba max back from its 'winter cleaning' and lemme just say that the 'N' brand woulda charged me 75bux for the service that this setup got. i even tried to supply them with a new rx connector which is what i sent it in for, but they returned it to me and told me to keep it lol.

thx again, 1 more reason that my m18 wont use anythin else again.

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