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Old 10-06-2008, 07:06 AM   #1681
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To me with a 5700 you will have a ton of power. I run my 4600 in my 2wd buggy with Low Start power and medium timing. I will have to check my gearing but I'm pretty sure I have my car at 23/83 on my GV2.

With all the power you have extra with the 5700 I would try low start power and medium or even lower timing because I highly doubt power is a problem for you.

Sometimes gearing too low will cause a motor to get even hotter so that could also be a problem of the motor getting hotter than normal. I would try the 20 tooth and do the low start power and start with lowest timing and work your way up a little on the timing while checking the temp. In a run or two you will have it dialed in.
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Old 10-06-2008, 09:47 AM   #1682
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Thanks for the tips. Power is definitely not a problem, traction is! I'll give the 20 tooth a try and compare temps. Wasn't really sure if undergearing could cause high temperatures as well as overgearing.
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Old 10-06-2008, 12:17 PM   #1683
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Originally Posted by grandaddy View Post
Running on low at the moment. Why do you recommend high start power?

I've read that if you can't touch the motor for more than 2 seconds it is too hot, that's what has me worried about even trying the 20 tooth.
start power is how much energy initally goes to the windings to get the motor going. since you have bigger tires than a buggy or touring car you need a lil extra power to help prevent stuttering on startup .

brushless motors are weird heres how temps go

hot motor cool esc cool batts = too small of a pinion
cool motor hot esc hot batts = too big of pinion
warm motor warm esc warm batts = the right size pinion.
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Old 10-06-2008, 08:35 PM   #1684
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Has anyone tried running any other Manufacturers 13.5 motor on a Mamba Max Speedo? If so, which one has worked for you?
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Old 10-07-2008, 11:01 AM   #1685
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Has anyone tried running any other Manufacturers 13.5 motor on a Mamba Max Speedo? If so, which one has worked for you?
They will not work correctly on initial start up. The 13.5 motors will hesistate/cogg off the line til it gets going and then it will be fine. Same with the any sensored motor trying to be ran on a sensorless system. The lower winds like 6.5 don't desistate as much but will still do it.

If you want the best performance you need to run either Castle or Tekin sensorless motors. Once Castle has the new Sensored speedo out then you will be able to run sensored motors with no problems but not until that speedo is released, it is in the works but no time table has been given on when this will happen.
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Old 10-07-2008, 06:46 PM   #1686
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Questions??

Does anyone have any "sample" files they could share to load into castle link?
Specifically, I am talking off-road truck and even more specifically, slowing the freakin' thing down.

I got the MM as a way to race and not have to cut comms. I prefer the slower "stock" motor racing and I want to tame my MM WAY down.

I haven't messed with the throttle curve at all, and I don't quite know where to start. Thats why I was wondering if anyone had any saved files or profiles that might be a start for me. I have set my epa at about 75% as a start.

Help!
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Old 10-07-2008, 08:45 PM   #1687
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Wyd thanks for the info.

Will Castle Creations ever release a motor that matches the 13.5s Kv rating? Let it be known I'm not asking this because of any ROAR vs. CCs issues...but...for club racing purposes?
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Old 10-16-2008, 09:14 PM   #1688
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Old 10-17-2008, 05:38 AM   #1689
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3 leds flashing usually means the reciever is not connected, it did that when i had my rx unplugged. give that a try, if it still does it there might be a loose connections somewhere, just take a close look at it mate...
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Old 10-17-2008, 05:50 AM   #1690
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Originally Posted by wyd View Post
They will not work correctly on initial start up. The 13.5 motors will hesistate/cogg off the line til it gets going and then it will be fine. Same with the any sensored motor trying to be ran on a sensorless system. The lower winds like 6.5 don't desistate as much but will still do it.

If you want the best performance you need to run either Castle or Tekin sensorless motors. Once Castle has the new Sensored speedo out then you will be able to run sensored motors with no problems but not until that speedo is released, it is in the works but no time table has been given on when this will happen.
WYD, i think its just the luck of the draw. Ive been running my MM with an orion vortex 7.5 old style for nearly a year now, no problems ever with it besides having to change bearings & so on. After a new lipo batt, im about to try out the new vortex race motor, probably a 6.5. Even before the new firmware released, i was running the 7.5 on the old firmware with no dramas aswell. standard settings, never touched the throttle & brake curves either.

Ive heard a few ppl getting great results out of a sensored motor with an MM by modifying the throttle curve, i guess its just a matter of trial & error in that department. Ive also heard fitting thicker gauge wire will also help reduce cogging/hesitation, ive replaced my old wires with 12awg wire just to freshen up the wires, was fairly straightforward for me to do, the 12awg fitted straight into the solder post holes with no problems.

theDover - if you have mates with sensored systems & would like to give a sensored 13.5 a go, try it with ur MM, if you find that is coggs/what not, try the methods described above...
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Old 10-17-2008, 09:53 AM   #1691
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Default A123 cells with Sidewinder?

Is it possible to use A123 cells in 2S setup with a sidewinder or would the voltage be to low for proper operation? Is it better to go with 3S?
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Old 10-17-2008, 02:52 PM   #1692
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i would go with 3s, just cause of the voltage of the 2s. You should be able to use A123 cells with the sidewinder no worries. you'll have to have a custom cut-off though or just run the pack til it starts to power down then you know the pack is nearly empty..
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:26 PM   #1693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drift Demon View Post
WYD, i think its just the luck of the draw. Ive been running my MM with an orion vortex 7.5 old style for nearly a year now, no problems ever with it besides having to change bearings & so on. After a new lipo batt, im about to try out the new vortex race motor, probably a 6.5. Even before the new firmware released, i was running the 7.5 on the old firmware with no dramas aswell. standard settings, never touched the throttle & brake curves either.

Ive heard a few ppl getting great results out of a sensored motor with an MM by modifying the throttle curve, i guess its just a matter of trial & error in that department. Ive also heard fitting thicker gauge wire will also help reduce cogging/hesitation, ive replaced my old wires with 12awg wire just to freshen up the wires, was fairly straightforward for me to do, the 12awg fitted straight into the solder post holes with no problems.

theDover - if you have mates with sensored systems & would like to give a sensored 13.5 a go, try it with ur MM, if you find that is coggs/what not, try the methods described above...
THe lower winds like the 7.5, 6.5 and lower work alot better than 13.5 and 17.5 motors do. The high winds tend to have start up issues but like you mention with the lower winds you are using no problems.
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Old 10-18-2008, 02:50 PM   #1694
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Default pb with Castle Link software

I can't program my Mamba Max anymore because the Castle Link software does not see it on the PC. I checked everything and tried a different USB cable without success. Anybody has an idea of the Pb?
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Old 10-18-2008, 04:40 PM   #1695
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that sounds really odd, maybe uninstall then reinstall castle link on your PC, then reset after youve reinstalled it, it should be recognising a USB port in use...
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