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Old 03-01-2009, 03:01 PM   #991
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Originally Posted by Fasthobbies1 View Post
Sorry if this has been asked before but I went back a few pages and did not see an answer. What are you using to mount the servo flat in the 1/12 th cars and what servo is most popular? The JR DS3421 that I have seems too big and won't fit with the horn centered between the front arms?
Thanks Bud

I use the Futaba 9602, and with the new case, you can put servo tape to hold it down and then use two mounting screws to make sure it stays in place.

Darkside also has a 90 degree mount that you can use with any similar size servo.
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Old 03-03-2009, 10:00 PM   #992
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I'm putting together a 1 cell lipo car for our two day race in Denver.

Anyone have any thoughts on what chassis set up to try?

Links In or Out?
Cells Back or Standard?
Silver or Black Graphite?

In my parts bag, I can do all of the above, just thought I'd see if anyone else has any thoughts.
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Old 03-06-2009, 02:21 AM   #993
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Default 190mm I Force

I was looking at the I Force on the Stormer web shop and it says it can be ran as a 190mm chassis. How is this done and has anybody tried it this way?
We like to run 190mm bodies here in Japan.
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Old 03-06-2009, 08:39 AM   #994
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Originally Posted by bakaguyjean View Post
I was looking at the I Force on the Stormer web shop and it says it can be ran as a 190mm chassis. How is this done and has anybody tried it this way?
We like to run 190mm bodies here in Japan.
Front track width is adjustable via the arm mounting holes. As far as the rear, you would just need to have less spacers on the axle. hth
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Old 03-06-2009, 01:27 PM   #995
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Originally Posted by bakaguyjean View Post
I was looking at the I Force on the Stormer web shop and it says it can be ran as a 190mm chassis. How is this done and has anybody tried it this way?
We like to run 190mm bodies here in Japan.
I've run this car for over a year at this point, and yes you can get the front down to fit under a 190mm body. (with an adaptor, you can also do a full 235 car as well, my avatar)

The front end has 4 positions for the width of the front end. Move it to the narrow setting and your done. Rear is a little harder based on the wheels you use. You can remove shims, which are used to center the tires, but the ride height adjusters fit below the surface of the motor plate. So you have to make sure your wheels clear the motor pod. If you use a full 2" wide rear foam tire, it will be too wide. Each brand of wheel has a little different offset, so find the least amount of offset, and if needed trim the width of the tire to fit your body.

Back in the day, Bolink made some 1 1/2" wide tires, which would be perfect for this application.

On a side note, there is a company that is making an adaptor that would allow you to use touring car wheels and tires on a pan car. Not sure where that link is, but worth looking into. They had pictures of a great GT40 with spoke rims on the site.
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Old 03-11-2009, 12:28 PM   #996
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Originally Posted by bakaguyjean View Post
I was looking at the I Force on the Stormer web shop and it says it can be ran as a 190mm chassis. How is this done and has anybody tried it this way?
We like to run 190mm bodies here in Japan.
Very good description by Grenade. E-mail me at [email protected]

Thanks

-E
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Old 05-25-2009, 09:43 AM   #997
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Well, have put the 235 "Kit" on the I-Fource and they car is right back where it was last year. Two outings, Two Wins.

Anyone want to try this, and I'd be glad to help get you started.

I need to follow Mick's lead and change the stand off's so that I can get a 5000 pack into the car. Need a little more run time with a 10.5 and have a 6.5 in the box ready to try!!!

On a 200' x 100' Nitro track this weekend, using just the 10.5 I was turning down to a 16.2 lap time. Fastest electric, but 1/10 Nitro was 15.3's and 1/8 got down to 13.8. So with 5000ma and ???.5 and maybe if I could drive, who knows!!!
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Old 06-24-2009, 09:39 AM   #998
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The new WGT and as yet unnamed 1/12 road course chassis are in the works now that the Lipo battery issue has been resolved. We'll have prototypes in the spring and production cars in September.

-E
Any way to get pics of the new WGT and 1/12 chassis' yet or is it still too early?
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:21 PM   #999
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Any way to get pics of the new WGT and 1/12 chassis' yet or is it still too early?
Still a bit early. We'll be testing prototypes later this month. Getting close though, will have production kits for the fall season

-E
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:31 PM   #1000
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Darkside Motorsports will be closed from July 18th until August 1st. Any orders placed during that time will be shipped when we return. Please feel free to contact us by phone or e-mail
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Old 10-27-2009, 02:20 PM   #1001
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Old 11-10-2009, 04:26 PM   #1002
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Darkside Wins!

Darkside Motorsports new prototype 1/12 road course car TQ's and wins the E-Plex Carpet Regionals in Colorado this past weekend. This was the debut race for this new chassis. Available soon........
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Old 12-09-2009, 04:03 PM   #1003
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i was wondering how to get hooked up with your team. the car looks awesome and i look forward to driving it really soon.
justi walts
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Old 12-14-2009, 10:33 PM   #1004
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Just courious what Futaba servo( 9551 or 9650) would you recommend for the I Force. Also how do you recommend mounting the front servo.Anyone have a picture on the mounting of the electronics on the chassis?
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Old 12-15-2009, 06:15 AM   #1005
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Originally Posted by BullFrog View Post
Just courious what Futaba servo( 9551 or 9650) would you recommend for the I Force. Also how do you recommend mounting the front servo.Anyone have a picture on the mounting of the electronics on the chassis?
I normally build the chassis, install the motor, servo, battery that I'm going to use and then set the chassis on the IRS balance balls. Most of the time, the ESC ends up on the right side in front stand off for the battery hold down / shock mount. The receiver is on the left side just in about the same place and then the transponder in front of the receiver. I put the wide side of the servo towards the left side. Servo angle mount using the mounts in the kit. Don't have a picture of the set up, but you should be able to follow this.

Once done I've had to add less than 10 grams to balance the chassis. Remember to have all your wires in place. I do use 16ga wire to the motor and battery. Never had a problem with power even up to a 10.5 motor with 2s lipo.

Mark
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