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Old 01-11-2018, 05:32 AM
  #1036  
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I have had zero issues with the 1s speedo's except... That they work perfect..

On the servo chatter I would suggest putting the car on the track and seeing if it is a none issue driving. I have seen a lot of servos that chatter in the air but are perfect on the track. I am not sure how the voltage booster in the speedo would translate into a "hunting" scenario for the servo.

I have seen servos that pull so many amps they brown out receivers. Not sure that would be the case for this
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Old 01-12-2018, 06:08 PM
  #1037  
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A couple of weeks ago I recieved the rs pro black edition 1s. But before I installed it I wanted to dyno it against my other esc's. Rs gen 2, rsx, orca, hobbywing. Using my track proven tsr 2.0 17.5t.
All the esc pretty much made the exact power and tq. The black edition made a graph on top of the others. I analyzed the data. Threw the pull the black edition was good for 3 to 4% more power.
This test was done on a 1s.
I just got my black edition for my tc car and will be performing the same test.
Good job tekin....
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Old 01-14-2018, 12:19 PM
  #1038  
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Brake and Throttle Frequency are new in version 258 hotwire. Do the default values for each (~6000 if I recall correctly) give the the same feel as one would have with the older version of the software without the frequency feature?
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Old 01-17-2018, 07:02 AM
  #1039  
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I have a problem with my Tekin RS I race in VTA after the start of the race if the car has to move from a dead start it doesn't want to move. It does it on all brands of motors and using 2 different RS ESC's. Also one other racer at my track has the same problem. I don't have that problem in USGT.
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:11 PM
  #1040  
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas
I have a problem with my Tekin RS I race in VTA after the start of the race if the car has to move from a dead start it doesn't want to move. It does it on all brands of motors and using 2 different RS ESC's. Also one other racer at my track has the same problem. I don't have that problem in USGT.
sensor wire; place them and see if that works
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Old 01-22-2018, 01:02 PM
  #1041  
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Please advise: 4WD buggy (B64D) spec/stock class, 13.5T Gen3 Spec R Motor. Will a Gen2 RX Spec rx do the job, or do I need another ESC? Thanks.
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Old 01-22-2018, 01:37 PM
  #1042  
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Originally Posted by PegLeg
Please advise: 4WD buggy (B64D) spec/stock class, 13.5T Gen3 Spec R Motor. Will a Gen2 RX Spec rx do the job, or do I need another ESC? Thanks.
If I remember off the top of my head; yes. The RS should handle. but to be safe look here. https://www.teamtekin.com/escs.html
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Old 01-22-2018, 02:49 PM
  #1043  
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Originally Posted by freebird
If I remember off the top of my head; yes. The RS should handle. but to be safe look here. https://www.teamtekin.com/escs.html
Technically, its not listed as a 'recommended application' which is not, unfortunately, what I'm looking to have answered. I'm basically trying to predict whether or not my existing ESC can handle the load of the motor in my 4WD buggy 13.5t stock class?
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Old 01-23-2018, 05:52 AM
  #1044  
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Originally Posted by PegLeg
Technically, its not listed as a 'recommended application' which is not, unfortunately, what I'm looking to have answered. I'm basically trying to predict whether or not my existing ESC can handle the load of the motor in my 4WD buggy 13.5t stock class?
On a few FB forums Ive seen where some have run it and they said there wasn't an issue. So Thats a choice you'll have to decide on.
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Old 02-26-2018, 10:19 AM
  #1045  
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tekin RS gen 1... hotwire 2... tekin 17.5 redline gen 1..
radio is Futaba 3PK, with spectrum module... and lipo battery pack

I went from 1/10 carpet pan car to SC5M dirt truck
running a new LIPO 4,000ma battery pack 2 cell.
new futaba S3305 steering servo

issue.... setting is brushless with forward /brake/ delay reverse........
delay into reverse.... what are the rules?
maybe One out of Five it will reverse.

as many times I can not get reverse to go/move truck...

I have latest computer software.. hotwire2 *non bluetooth* is 1 week old and has download 223...

also..esc set motor to brushless forward/reverse.. at a good forward speed.. going to brake.. motor goes to full Reverse..

I purchased all the stuff NEW.. even the old stuff.. been racing r/c since 1991..
esc was NEVER been powered backwards.
new to dirt.. never used reverse before.. and very little brake.. in all these years.
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Old 02-27-2018, 09:51 PM
  #1046  
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What would the difference be in running a yellow rotor in 13.5 (wheeler, SCT, and Stadium) and 17.5 Buggy when using a RPM vs Regular motor? Just curious if it's better to just run the regular gen3 with the yellow rotor or does the high rpm motor give you a middle ground between the two setups.
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Old 02-28-2018, 08:45 AM
  #1047  
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Originally Posted by chuck_thehammer

issue.... setting is brushless with forward /brake/ delay reverse........
delay into reverse.... what are the rules?
maybe One out of Five it will reverse.

as many times I can not get reverse to go/move truck

also..esc set motor to brushless forward/reverse.. at a good forward speed.. going to brake.. motor goes to full Reverse..
Rules are track rules as I run ALL my esc's with reverse, but I don't use it when racing as I hate to get stuck on the boards and have to go get the car, and generally you need to wait a few seconds for it to work, as I have counted up to 10 before it would actually work, also the other part is a setting, as you have it forward/reverse and you need forward-brake-reverse or it will tear up the transmission with forward/reverse, so change that part and wait for a few seconds with NO throttle input and reverse should work if you have it activated, also you might want to recalibrate the esc when done making changes
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Old 07-13-2018, 03:02 AM
  #1048  
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Hello guys,

I've bought a Tekin RS BE (quite nostalgic) with a 13.5T G3 Spec-R and it is hard to obtain a good feeling with the combo. I know that this motor has been developed for stock blinky classes but here we are running touring 13.5 boosted as main class.

About that, I have so many questions...
- I've read that the new Spec-R motors have plenty of torque, so why is it recommended to reduce the size of the pinion? I don't understand, it should be the opposite.
- This motor comes with 30 of mechanical timing by default. With latest generation motors, such as HW v3, 40 seems to be optimal, any advice on that considering the fact that we are running plenty of dynamic timing?
- Has anybody a good setup for 13.5 touring? I have found my old RS setup, but the ESC seems a little bit different from its ancestor...

Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-13-2018, 02:51 PM
  #1049  
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The standard 13.5 is probably better for boosted setups. The SpecR is really designed for spec racing where you are stuck with the timing set high in the motor all the time. The SpecR should still be fine as long as you set the timing on the can really low (10deg) and boost from there with esc settings. Like always start low and work up while watching heat = summation of all things evil !

The SpecR needs lower gearing because the kv is a lot higher than the standard 13.5 motors, or most other brands of spec motors. Again specifically designed for light cars in spec racing and getting max rpm once spooled out while still having solid torque on the low end. The lower gearing lets the motor spool out naturally and faster, and produces less heat. Remember when you load a motor down with taller gearing it uses more amps, which equals heat and lower battery voltage sooner. Getting it done with less amps and staying cool is the real key to consistent performance and no fade. Many are finally discovering that staying under 150F with a good setup is fast and you do not need to run on the edge of melting the solder off the Y plate....

We do ship the motors set at 30deg for a nice starting point, but most do end up running them in the 40 to 45 range in spec classes once they have have the gearing dialed in.

The boost setting are a bit different in the new gen2 esc's compared to the gen1 units. Truth is they are just more accurate and linear so it feels different with same settings. Both are still doing the same thing...
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Old 07-14-2018, 07:58 AM
  #1050  
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Originally Posted by Tekin Prez
The standard 13.5 is probably better for boosted setups. The SpecR is really designed for spec racing where you are stuck with the timing set high in the motor all the time. The SpecR should still be fine as long as you set the timing on the can really low (10deg) and boost from there with esc settings. Like always start low and work up while watching heat = summation of all things evil !

The SpecR needs lower gearing because the kv is a lot higher than the standard 13.5 motors, or most other brands of spec motors. Again specifically designed for light cars in spec racing and getting max rpm once spooled out while still having solid torque on the low end. The lower gearing lets the motor spool out naturally and faster, and produces less heat. Remember when you load a motor down with taller gearing it uses more amps, which equals heat and lower battery voltage sooner. Getting it done with less amps and staying cool is the real key to consistent performance and no fade. Many are finally discovering that staying under 150F with a good setup is fast and you do not need to run on the edge of melting the solder off the Y plate....

We do ship the motors set at 30deg for a nice starting point, but most do end up running them in the 40 to 45 range in spec classes once they have have the gearing dialed in.

The boost setting are a bit different in the new gen2 esc's compared to the gen1 units. Truth is they are just more accurate and linear so it feels different with same settings. Both are still doing the same thing...
awesome info, thanks for posting
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