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Old 01-07-2011, 08:04 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by foampervert
Hiya HaoJiang,

Just to add on to what Adi has provided...

If you want to run a gear diff (there are some who will say it's better... KC for one), I'm almost certain it will fit in the x60 kit. what you might need though (and i'm just guessing cos i've never built a x60) is an extra idler gear (to make up the 4 gear tranny) if it's not provided in the kit.

The gear diff and ball diffs are the same size, so should fit perfectly.

some say gear diffs make for a more consistent and tough diff, whilst others like the ease of adjustibility and rebuilds or durability offered by ball diffs(they allow slippage with high impacts, gear diffs will just strip)

you technically don't need a ball diff unless you're keen to up and buy parts to build one.

Shalom and God Bless!

-Alexander
Originally Posted by leongkc
I do know of one and have pm'ed him.
Let's see if he contacts you.

If the 2 truck classes are not merged, you can run 1, and Dom can run the other.....
Hi KC / Foamie

Thanks for your help and inputs. Will see if the B4 seller contacts me. If not then, I will look at the options on the diffs.

Appreciate your help.

Cheers and see you at BK's.
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:21 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by HoJo
Hi KC / Foamie

Thanks for your help and inputs. Will see if the B4 seller contacts me. If not then, I will look at the options on the diffs.

Appreciate your help.

Cheers and see you at BK's.
Hi HaoJiang,
me the "seller". anyway, i'm not selling my b4, but looking to trade the ball diff for a gear diff. currently, funky had link some1 up for me, but no news from him since than. let me confrim with him else, do u want to trade ur gear diff with a used ball diff? BTW, will need the gear housing & the bearing too.

BTW, the X60 need a ball diff. the sc10front end is a direct fit.

Last edited by png; 01-07-2011 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:50 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by foampervert

The gear diff and ball diffs are the same size, so should fit perfectly.

-Alexander
What alex says is correct, the gear diff and the ball diff are the same size, but not the same length. If u place a gear diff and a ball diff side by side, the gear diff casing is about 1mm larger to accommodate the planetary gear inside and may not fit into the gear case.

Correct me if i'm wrong.
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Old 01-07-2011, 08:54 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by png
Hi HaoJiang,
me the "seller". anyway, i'm not selling my b4, but looking to trade the ball diff for a gear diff. currently, funky had link some1 up for me, but no news from him since than. let me confrim with him else, do u want to trade ur gear diff with a used ball diff? BTW, will need the gear housing too.

BTW, the X60 need a ball diff. the sc10front end is a direct fit.
wah Png u pulled yet another B4 out from under your bed again to sell off ah?
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Old 01-07-2011, 10:26 PM
  #35  
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A bit of RC pictures of Masami cars, sorry pictures only.

http://picasaweb.google.com/mizuuchi...18510180423810
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:30 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by png
Hi HaoJiang,
me the "seller". anyway, i'm not selling my b4, but looking to trade the ball diff for a gear diff. currently, funky had link some1 up for me, but no news from him since than. let me confrim with him else, do u want to trade ur gear diff with a used ball diff? BTW, will need the gear housing & the bearing too.

BTW, the X60 need a ball diff. the sc10front end is a direct fit.
Png, you have PM
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:17 AM
  #37  
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Hi Gentlemens,
i have a few queries here, pls pardon my ignorances. extremely noob here with buggies and offroad. last year i came across this noob series thing u guys have going on, with the modern and vintage rides, very motivating and interesting. I finally gotten myself a db01r. run a couple of hours with a silver can and a sport tuned, very disappointing. I do believe the db01 is meant for more. so i rang up the lovely lady that i believe that most here are familiar with, hooked myself up with a new HW XErun2.0 with 6.5T motor, and powered with a 5000mah 40c battery i bought off a nice bloke here. Sorry for the grandmother stories.
the questions are i got a loud rattering / brushing sound on quick accelerations. and the esc and motor gets really hot within 10 mins of play. i have reduced my pinion to 17t to run with the stock spur(91t) without much help
and its a 6.5t too fast for use at the RCI track?
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Old 01-12-2011, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Dryft
Hi Gentlemens,
i have a few queries here, pls pardon my ignorances. extremely noob here with buggies and offroad. last year i came across this noob series thing u guys have going on, with the modern and vintage rides, very motivating and interesting. I finally gotten myself a db01r. run a couple of hours with a silver can and a sport tuned, very disappointing. I do believe the db01 is meant for more. so i rang up the lovely lady that i believe that most here are familiar with, hooked myself up with a new HW XErun2.0 with 6.5T motor, and powered with a 5000mah 40c battery i bought off a nice bloke here. Sorry for the grandmother stories.
the questions are i got a loud rattering / brushing sound on quick accelerations. and the esc and motor gets really hot within 10 mins of play. i have reduced my pinion to 17t to run with the stock spur(91t) without much help
and its a 6.5t too fast for use at the RCI track?
Hi there,

The sound you hear could be different things and it's hard to tell without actually hearing it. I do suspect that it might be the ball diffs slipping though. Setting the diffs and slipper might be a little tricky if you're new to buggies, but essentially the diffs are not supposed to slip (the slipper should) and when diffs slip they kinda screech for a bit especially on hard acceleration or braking.

Have you temp-ed the esc or motor? They do run a tad hot depending on your driving style and a 16-17T pinion sounds about right - best way is to actually measure the temps and know how hot you're really running. If I remember correctly motors run up to about 170 degrees farenheit. If it is running much higher there may be some binding in the transmission or perhaps incorrect setting of gear ratio, mesh or even ESC/motor timing...

As for motor turns, we do run 6.5T motors but have recently been switching to 7.5T motors. Both are about right for tackling the jumps at BTP.

Do you intend to join us for the NOOB series? Participants are welcome to contact us to arrange for us to give them an intro to buggies and if necessary to also look over their buggies to ensure they are setup right (e.g. the diff / slipper settings).
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Old 01-12-2011, 10:00 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by BloodClod
Hi there,

The sound you hear could be different things and it's hard to tell without actually hearing it. I do suspect that it might be the ball diffs slipping though. Setting the diffs and slipper might be a little tricky if you're new to buggies, but essentially the diffs are not supposed to slip (the slipper should) and when diffs slip they kinda screech for a bit especially on hard acceleration or braking.

Have you temp-ed the esc or motor? They do run a tad hot depending on your driving style and a 16-17T pinion sounds about right - best way is to actually measure the temps and know how hot you're really running. If I remember correctly motors run up to about 170 degrees farenheit. If it is running much higher there may be some binding in the transmission or perhaps incorrect setting of gear ratio, mesh or even ESC/motor timing...

As for motor turns, we do run 6.5T motors but have recently been switching to 7.5T motors. Both are about right for tackling the jumps at BTP.

Do you intend to join us for the NOOB series? Participants are welcome to contact us to arrange for us to give them an intro to buggies and if necessary to also look over their buggies to ensure they are setup right (e.g. the diff / slipper settings).
Thanks for the quick reply.
I would really like to get a piece of the action in the noob series.
i was thinking it could be the rear ball diff. gonna rebuilt once i got new ones( just in case i already screwed it). thinking of going down either this sat or the last sat of the month, but i have to replaced a few stuffs first. broke the front arm earlier on.
does RCI stock a lot of tamiya parts? dun think i wanna end a track day becos of broken parts. lol.
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Old 01-12-2011, 04:07 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Dryft
Thanks for the quick reply.
I would really like to get a piece of the action in the noob series.
i was thinking it could be the rear ball diff. gonna rebuilt once i got new ones( just in case i already screwed it). thinking of going down either this sat or the last sat of the month, but i have to replaced a few stuffs first. broke the front arm earlier on.
does RCI stock a lot of tamiya parts? dun think i wanna end a track day becos of broken parts. lol.
either that or it could be your slipper clutch slipping. The DB01R is one of the nicest and durable buggy out there....Have fun. And yes, RCI does have a healthy supply of Tamiya spares.......
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Old 01-12-2011, 05:50 PM
  #41  
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hiya Dryft,

It could also be that the eccentric belt tensioning inserts are not aligned... causing the diffs to wobble.

Many things could go wonky when weird sounds are heard. Best to bring it down and let us have a look over.

Shalom and God Bless!

-Alexander
p.s. silvercans and sport tunes are a great way to start! as long as you're not flipping and crashing, you're already going fast! that said, don't forget to get some nice sticky tires... stock tamiya tires usually do not handle well at BTP.
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Old 01-13-2011, 06:34 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Teinsports
either that or it could be your slipper clutch slipping. The DB01R is one of the nicest and durable buggy out there....Have fun. And yes, RCI does have a healthy supply of Tamiya spares.......
i did tighten and loosen the slipper but then ain't really too sure bout how tight/loose it should be. lol. though its starting to burn a hole in my wallet, yeah i'm still having fun meddling with it. i really like the db01 so far. except i have problem fitting a heatsink to the motor too.

Originally Posted by foampervert
hiya Dryft,

It could also be that the eccentric belt tensioning inserts are not aligned... causing the diffs to wobble.

Many things could go wonky when weird sounds are heard. Best to bring it down and let us have a look over.

Shalom and God Bless!

-Alexander
p.s. silvercans and sport tunes are a great way to start! as long as you're not flipping and crashing, you're already going fast! that said, don't forget to get some nice sticky tires... stock tamiya tires usually do not handle well at BTP.
hmm, the belt tensioning inserts something i have not considered yet. anyway i ordered some ceramic balls(doesn't sounds right, or watever its called). so will be rebuilding the diff while i go thru the manual again. hopefully i can get it up and moving every soon, then u guys can help advise how i can make it run. lol.

thanks everyone for the replies, its pple like u guys that help keeps this hobby a great one.
ps. what tires will be good for running at BTP? i almost bought the tamiya ones from our sweet lady earlier. oops
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:01 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Dryft
i did tighten and loosen the slipper but then ain't really too sure bout how tight/loose it should be. lol. though its starting to burn a hole in my wallet, yeah i'm still having fun meddling with it. i really like the db01 so far. except i have problem fitting a heatsink to the motor too.



hmm, the belt tensioning inserts something i have not considered yet. anyway i ordered some ceramic balls(doesn't sounds right, or watever its called). so will be rebuilding the diff while i go thru the manual again. hopefully i can get it up and moving every soon, then u guys can help advise how i can make it run. lol.

thanks everyone for the replies, its pple like u guys that help keeps this hobby a great one.
ps. what tires will be good for running at BTP? i almost bought the tamiya ones from our sweet lady earlier. oops
Don't spend money unnecessarily if you are on a budget. The DB01R is a great car to run without much additional $$$ spent. It's a little tricky to set diffs and slippers if you're new, so if you need help come join the NOOB series and let all the great guys in the EP offroad scene extend a warm welcome and share what they know.
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:02 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Dryft
i did tighten and loosen the slipper but then ain't really too sure bout how tight/loose it should be. lol. though its starting to burn a hole in my wallet, yeah i'm still having fun meddling with it. i really like the db01 so far. except i have problem fitting a heatsink to the motor too.

hmm, the belt tensioning inserts something i have not considered yet. anyway i ordered some ceramic balls(doesn't sounds right, or watever its called). so will be rebuilding the diff while i go thru the manual again. hopefully i can get it up and moving every soon, then u guys can help advise how i can make it run. lol.

thanks everyone for the replies, its pple like u guys that help keeps this hobby a great one.
ps. what tires will be good for running at BTP? i almost bought the tamiya ones from our sweet lady earlier. oops
http://www.rctech.net/forum/8422820-post10.html

Hook up with any of the organizers and they would be more than happy to lend u a hand and maybe legs too(marshalling duties)

Personally, i would go for Jconcepts Flipouts/double dees (green compound) on a dry & dusty track. jconcepts Goosebumps for damp conditions...
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Old 01-13-2011, 07:27 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Teinsports
http://www.rctech.net/forum/8422820-post10.html

Hook up with any of the organizers and they would be more than happy to lend u a hand and maybe legs too(marshalling duties)

Personally, i would go for Jconcepts Flipouts/double dees (green compound) on a dry & dusty track. jconcepts Goosebumps for damp conditions...
I kinda second that, not forgetting Proline Calibers are pretty awesome too. Good grip vs wear n tear.
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