Gundam

hi guys remember me? went there on one of the sat n c no one there thought u guys shifted to elsewhere. Will try to join u guys .Nw got no car to play.

Tronky

Sometimes we play on friday nights. =P This week we wld be just be doing solely electrics in a multistorey carpark in Punggol. You cld set a track between 2 floors.

If it's early, perhaps 8-9, you cld do some nitro too, wah, within the tight constraints of a multi storey carpark, it's really thrilling to run your nitros. One small mistake and you'll hit the kerbs and walls, macham like real race, can't afford to buang. =P It's an art to get ur 2 spd to kick in the carpark too, me myself dun dare to do that...if you wld drop by tomorrow, I'm sure someone wld be more than delighted to demo.

Gundam: Have you sold of your nitro? Interested in getting electrics or nitro now?

nixaad

Confirm playing tomorrow nite at Punggol? 1st August friday night? or 2nd on Sats nite? Please confirm? which multi story? details please. Thanks! BTW punggol near my house liao...

Gundam : you came in a taxi wif that nice lady did you? get electrics :P

Gundam

sold away my v 1 s but frd gave me another but have to fine tune the engine.My snake is lying in the living room waiting 4 spare.Btw which blk u guys play at punggol cos my new house is just over there .

wolfman

iTrader: (1)

Hi Hellangel,
I got more question.

1) if I use 9T motor, than the gearing should be higher or lower than 6.4 gearing??

2) motor timing,how to know what is the timing and what's it for??

3) degree stock motor and degree for car ( wheel or gear ),whats it for??

Thank you very much.

Tronky

I dun exactly know the block, it' in Punggol fields, near a 21hr coffee shop along the LRT tracks. Wld drop the block number when I get it, know how to drive there but dunno the block.

Wld first start off with nitro at Pasir Ris carpark at ard 8.30 before heading down to Punggol for electrics. For me, electric's prove to be so fun and low maintainence that I'm thinking of giving up gas.

Tyres on electric also last longer too, best is no more doing up the diffs and cleaning up of car after a run.

hellangel

iTrader: (5)

the gearing should be lower... (number bigger)


there's a tool which can measure timing of motor cans... u need to get dat to make precise adjustments... timing changes the rmp, amp draw, torque parameters of the motor... my advice is dun mess wif the timing... try to leave it at the factory setting... unless u very sure wat u are doing...


i do not understand wat u are trying to say here...

nixaad

GOODNESS GRACIOUS! can it be real? Yeah electric is easier to maintain. Is it gonna be this saturday Tronky? btw u got PM.

wolfman

iTrader: (1)

Hi Hellangel,
thanks for your reply.

For the degree thingy.
1) what's the different between the 23T motor and the 23 degree stock motor??
2) for the wheel or gear,
it say 0 degree, 1degree or -1 degree off-site??
What's are they for.

Thanks and regards.

hellangel

iTrader: (5)

a 23T motor has a wire wound 23 times around its armature... a 23 degree motor has the endbell advanced by 23 degrees... two totally unrelated terms...


wat wheel...?? wat gear...?? wat has the wheel and gear got to do wif the motor...?? sorry, i still dun understand wat u are trying to ask??

Alvin

<wanders by finally to check out any bad going-ons>

wolfman: Could your -1 be referring to the offset of the rim? Offset rims are used to widen the car (e.g. +1 offset rims widen your car by 2mm)

Motor timing: Best if you went to teamcrv.com and check out the Big Jim's Motor Black Book. Quick run down by newbie experience:

Timing: Timing is usually only adjustable on modified motors, i.e. motors that have ball bearings supporting either end of the armature, and the endbell, the part where you solder your wires and where the brushes/springs are, is able to rotate along the same axis as the amature spin.

With the endbell looking at you, (hence the part where the pinion gear attaches points AWAY from ya), rotating it anti clockwise increases the timing. It's kinda difficult to explain without a picture, but you should only use a timing within the range 0 to 24 degrees. There should be a marking on the can where the 0 degree is. (Though i've tried tamiya dyna runs up to 36degrees, @ 8.9:1 FDR).

Simply put, more timing =
a) More expensive; more brush wear; need to change brush more often
b) More torque; hence more pickup
c) More RPMs; hence higher top speed
d) More expensive²; commutator, the part where the brushes contact the armature wears out faster due to the increased arcing.
e) Generally you will want to run a lower gearing (larger number for your final drive) with higher timing.

Less timing is of course, the reverse of all the above.

As with hellangel's advice, play not with timing unless you know what's going on. Good way to cook a motor, especially when the final drive does not match the new timing = burnt brushes, batteries run hot! Terrible.

Ciaos

~Alvin

Alvin

And oh wolfie, there are alot of degrees stuff in the cars... timing is one of them. Camber, Castor, for example are also usually measured in degrees. I doubt anyone uses radians heheh

Alvin

The top picture shows timing around 1-2degree. The lower picture shows the motor having approx 24 degree timing (Note that I do not have a timing jig). Observe how the endbell has been rotated. The dyna run motor is marked by nondescript lines...

Note that motors are usually marked by notches, with 1 notch = er, 12 degrees if memory serves. So like when I run my favourite 14x2s usually its @ 24degrees -> 2 notches. Sometimes, they are marked in mm instead of notches. If memory serves again, (lazy to find my team atlas motor) 8mm timing = 24degrees.

Observe also, that the solder roll makes a very good stand for motor photo taking =)

(F717, F2, 1/5s)

hellangel

iTrader: (5)

alvin... ur poor motor look like it just came back from a war man...!!!

Alvin

Nah, not really. I accidently left it in my evo 3's exhaust pipe and I had my turbo anti lag system on....