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Newbies Queries - Ask and you shall be answered!

Old 06-05-2009, 06:06 AM
  #3286  
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Originally Posted by ben_xraynt1
bro i sand my shell before spray the paint and it works wor. crash also won't fall off man.
what grit of sand paper you use?

for those choosing paint (hardware shop type)
i prefer bosny or fox they produce finer spray droplets (quality same same)
use to like pylox now give up. their clear coat produce yellowish hue especially on white.
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Old 06-05-2009, 06:28 AM
  #3287  
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Anyone getting glitch on spektrum recievers(sr 3300T) with TEU-101BK esc?
tried 2 esc and both same problem. no other problems with other esc on that rx
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Old 06-05-2009, 07:35 AM
  #3288  
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Originally Posted by Ivan Hng
Eh, you like trying to spy every thread I post hor! Nbz, who spray your shell for your one har!
KNN, U spy me 1st lor!
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:56 PM
  #3289  
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Originally Posted by m33g0
wont the surface be blur or rough after sanding?
I doubt so. As you are spraying from the inside. The outside is covered with a layer of film. So by sanding, the paint 'bites' into the lexan.

Originally Posted by fadeaway
what grit of sand paper you use?

for those choosing paint (hardware shop type)
i prefer bosny or fox they produce finer spray droplets (quality same same)
use to like pylox now give up. their clear coat produce yellowish hue especially on white.
I cannot find bosny paints around my area. Anyway, pylox paints have many hues and colours to choose from. including metallic ones to give it a shimmering look.
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:57 PM
  #3290  
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Originally Posted by andre lim
KNN, U spy me 1st lor!
KNN, O where got spy on you! I better get PPO (Personal Protection Order) liao!
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:58 PM
  #3291  
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~Double post~

Last edited by Ivan Hng; 06-05-2009 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:57 PM
  #3292  
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Originally Posted by m33g0
wont the surface be blur or rough after sanding?
the 1st i did was blur the 2nd i done up was not too bad . ya it gets abit blur

[QUOTE=fadeaway;5900324]what grit of sand paper you use?

1000

Btw guys, you are into gp or ep?
im a gp driver.
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:24 PM
  #3293  
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[QUOTE=ben_xraynt1;5903057]the 1st i did was blur the 2nd i done up was not too bad . ya it gets abit blur

Originally Posted by fadeaway
what grit of sand paper you use?

1000

Btw guys, you are into gp or ep?
im a gp driver.
EP On-road and GP/EP Off-road.

I can see you are on-road driver right?
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Old 06-05-2009, 10:35 PM
  #3294  
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[QUOTE=Ivan Hng;5903125]
Originally Posted by ben_xraynt1
the 1st i did was blur the 2nd i done up was not too bad . ya it gets abit blur



EP On-road and GP/EP Off-road.

I can see you are on-road driver right?
yup , u can see it in the pic bro....
so u go bottletree yishun?
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Old 06-05-2009, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ben_xraynt1

yup , u can see it in the pic bro....
so u go bottletree yishun?
I have been there, but not often.
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Old 06-06-2009, 04:41 AM
  #3296  
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[QUOTE=Ivan Hng;5903217]I have been there, but not often.[/QUOTE

Im usually at east coast pa whenever had the time
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Old 06-06-2009, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ben_xraynt1
Im usually at east coast pa whenever had the time
Currently, I'm finding time to make time to spend more time with my toys.. No chance to play due to work..
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Old 06-06-2009, 10:35 PM
  #3298  
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Originally Posted by Ivan Hng
I doubt so. As you are spraying from the inside. The outside is covered with a layer of film. So by sanding, the paint 'bites' into the lexan.



I cannot find bosny paints around my area. Anyway, pylox paints have many hues and colours to choose from. including metallic ones to give it a shimmering look.
what about the outer surface ? from the view we view at our shell...will it be blurred and not shiny anymore ?
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by m33g0
what about the outer surface ? from the view we view at our shell...will it be blurred and not shiny anymore ?
You see, you sand the surface on the inside of the shell. Thus, the outside of the shell is not affected as there is a layer of film that protects the outside of the shell when you are sanding or spraying the paint.

You ONLY remove the layer of film AFTER you have finished applying the paint. So the OUTSIDE of the shell is still shiny and glossy. As the paint adheres to the lexan on the inside of the shell, the outside is not affected.

If you have sprayed a shell before, you will know what I mean. You have to try to understand.
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:18 PM
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Taken from Proline's website.

What Youíll Need - Supplies
Dish soap
Clean cloth or paper towel
Fine steel wool, or SOS pad
High quality masking tape (3M)
Permanent marker
Straight and curved scissors
Sharp hobby knife
Pencil
Lexan compatible paint
Homemade wheelwell template
Window masks, Decal sheet, wing mounting hardware

Wash your body

To remove any residue left on the body after molding, you must wash it inside and out. Use warm soapy water in your sink, paying special attention to the tight curved areas and corners. Dry the body with a clean towel or hair dryer. It must be completely dry before you paint it.

Cut off the wing

If your body came with a wing or spoiler molded into the excess material, you must cut it off. Some wings are molded in the opposite direction of the body. If this is the case you must remove the protective film, and paint the reverse side.

Marking the Body Posts

If your body does not have mounting holes marked for your chassis you can mark them before you paint. Drop the body over your chassis, center it and use a permanent marker to mark the body posts. You can also mark the wheel wells. Touring car and On-Road bodies sometimes have no rear wheel well outlines, this give you freedom to make a perfect fit for your chassis. (Touring Car body shown)

Marking the Wheels

While your body is over the chassis, you can also mark the wheel wells if neccessary. Touring car and on-road bodies sometimes have no rear wheel well outlines, this give you freedom to make a perfect fit for your chassis. A great tip is to make a wheel well template, and use it to trace 4 identical wheel well shapes. They can be made from either scrap lexan, or cardboard.

Window Masks

Using the molded in window lines as a guide apply the window masks to the inside the body. Be sure to press down all the edges to keep paint from sneaking under. The masks keep the windows clear while you paint.

Step 1: Tape Stripes

This paint scheme is quite simple, and uses straight masking tape for the design. Make sure you use high quality masking tape, and press down all the edges. First mask off the color that you want to paint last.

Step 2: Continue Taping

Fill in the area you want to paint with your second color. I used blue and beige tape to show the separate paint sections. Painting from dark to light is ideal, so leave the darkest section clear, and paint this first.

Step 3: First Coat

Fill in the area you want to paint with your second color. I used blue and beige tape to show the separate paint sections. Painting from dark to light is ideal, so leave the darkest section clear, and paint this first.

Step 4: Finish First Coat, & remove mask

When your first color has completely dried, unmask the second section of the paint scheme. While removing the tape, watch that you donít remove any of the stripes accidentally.

Step 5: Paint 2nd color & remove msk

Again spray light coats and cover evenly. You can then back it with white or silver, but in my case I will use silver for the stripes, so no need to back it separately. When the paint has completely dried remove the taped stripes.

Step 6: Paint stripe

Now fill in the stripes with silver, and also back up the blue section in the middle, and on the bed.

Step 7: Window Trim

Painted window trim is very popular, and easy to create. When your final backup coat is dry, trace and trim around the inside of the window mask creating a border. Remove the borders from all the windows and spray with your favorite color.

Step 8: Flat Black Bed

Another option is a flat black tonneau cover or bedliner. With a sharp hobby knife cut the protective film around the bed, and peel it away. Spray the bed with hobby paint, or flat black enamel. The film will protect the rest of the body.

Step 9: Trim & test fit

Trim out your body using curved scissors for the wheel wells and straight scissors for the lower lines. Drill out your body post markings with either a Dremel tool or reamer. The protective film will help keep your body from getting scratched as you cut and drill.

Tip: For added durability it is recommended to sand all rough and sharp edges with a sanding drum or stone.

Step 10: Remove protective film & window masks

Peel back the protective film, and remove the window masks.

Step 11: Decal & Detail

Apply the decals included with the body, add extra details with a paint pen or Sharpie marker if you wish.


http://www.prolineracing.com/t-HowToTipsPaintingA.aspx
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