New Yokomo TC, the BD-5
07-21-2009, 08:30 AM
#796
I have a setup where I can use shaved down 415/416 aluminum sleeves that are held in place by the original rings. But the stock BD5 pins on the bones are too long and extend outside the outdrive slots. One option would be to shave down the pins to fit. Or you can just use Tamiya 46mm bones. But aluminum sleeves would be much stronger/durable.
07-21-2009, 08:43 AM
#797
Also, since the BD5 oneway drops right into a Photon, there is a very slight possibility that the Photon light weight spool will fit in the Yok. But I say slight because of the clearance issues you might face with the bottom of the chassis and the top deck. I'll see if one fits on 2 weeks.
07-21-2009, 12:23 PM
#798
No problem. I was surprised at how free the diff feels and it does not slip. I think I can loosen the diff screw even more, and the diff still will not slip. It is very good. I put some Tamiya AW grease on the pins/contact point on the diffs. But I think AW grease is too sticky and too much dirt sticks to it. I will clean it all off and just use bearing oil like your team does. I think it will be easier to maintain this way.
The diff weight might have slowed acceleration just a hair/barely noticable, but it has smoothed out the throttle a lot. This is with 17.5 Roar Stock. There might be a slight loss in steering as well. I think partly due to the extra weight in the rear of the car (rear is a little more planted). I need to switch to aluminum axles and dump off some weight.
Elwyn, do you have stock of new graphite/hard arms? Thanks.
The diff weight might have slowed acceleration just a hair/barely noticable, but it has smoothed out the throttle a lot. This is with 17.5 Roar Stock. There might be a slight loss in steering as well. I think partly due to the extra weight in the rear of the car (rear is a little more planted). I need to switch to aluminum axles and dump off some weight.
Elwyn, do you have stock of new graphite/hard arms? Thanks.
Yes, the new graphite parts like arms, C hub, front and rear knuckles is arriving in about 2 weeks time with full range of parts for BD5 and others Yokomo products.
Do you need me to reserved some graphite parts for you?
07-21-2009, 04:59 PM
#799
I have a setup where I can use shaved down 415/416 aluminum sleeves that are held in place by the original rings. But the stock BD5 pins on the bones are too long and extend outside the outdrive slots. One option would be to shave down the pins to fit. Or you can just use Tamiya 46mm bones. But aluminum sleeves would be much stronger/durable.
07-21-2009, 08:48 PM
#800
This is what I'm talking about, BD5 spool with modified 415 aluminum sleeves. I do not run them on my car yet. But this is an example. You have to shave them down. I did this before when I ran a 415 spool on the 416 before the 416 spools came out last year. You need them short to fit the BD5 spool cups, and you need the ring to hold them on. The Yokomo SD/BD sleeve is thin and sloted, plus you have to glue it in place. I do not run this setup right now. I do not think I need it yet. I have been fine so far and only broke one cup because of my mistake. But if you run this setup, you will need to change your dogbone/axle to Tamiya 46mm or shave the Yokomo axle pins down because they extend past the cups. (See bottom pic, left axle is Yokomo and right blue axle is Tamiya). Hope this helps. I prefer this setup to steel spools! Steel spools chatter more, weight more, and loose steering.
07-21-2009, 08:56 PM
#801
This is what I'm talking about, BD5 spool with modified 415 aluminum sleeves. I do not run them on my car yet. But this is an example. You have to shave them down. I did this before when I ran a 415 spool on the 416 before the 416 spools came out last year. You need them short to fit the BD5 spool cups, and you need the ring to hold them on. The Yokomo SD/BD sleeve is thin and sloted, plus you have to glue it in place. I do not run this setup right now. I do not think I need it yet. I have been fine so far and only broke one cup because of my mistake. But if you run this setup, you will need to change your dogbone/axle to Tamiya 46mm or shave the Yokomo axle pins down because they extend past the cups. (See bottom pic, left axle is Yokomo and right blue axle is Tamiya). Hope this helps. I prefer this setup to steel spools! Steel spools chatter more, weight more, and loose steering.
how is the wearing rate of the bd5 spool delrin cup ?? will it easy to wear like what happen to the alloy rear diff???hv u try if the spool cup for the trf416 fit the bd5??
07-21-2009, 09:09 PM
#802
I do not think delrin spool cups are adaptable from 416 to BD5. They have different mounting dimensions. I think I looked at this option already.
I've only ran the CD/BD sleeve several years ago on my old original BD. But I do not think it was much stronger. It is too thin and lets the outdrives spread a little. The thick Tamiya aluminum sleeves do not let the outdrive spread at all.
Wear on the BD5 spool has been good so far. I do not have issues with them. But I am sure if you wreck front end, it might be easy to break because only the ring is supporting the cups. Buy many spares!
I've only ran the CD/BD sleeve several years ago on my old original BD. But I do not think it was much stronger. It is too thin and lets the outdrives spread a little. The thick Tamiya aluminum sleeves do not let the outdrive spread at all.
Wear on the BD5 spool has been good so far. I do not have issues with them. But I am sure if you wreck front end, it might be easy to break because only the ring is supporting the cups. Buy many spares!
07-21-2009, 09:15 PM
#803
I do not think delrin spool cups are adaptable from 416 to BD5. They have different mounting dimensions. I think I looked at this option already.
I've only ran the CD/BD sleeve several years ago on my old original BD. But I do not think it was much stronger. It is too thin and lets the outdrives spread a little. The thick Tamiya aluminum sleeves do not let the outdrive spread at all.
Wear on the BD5 spool has been good so far. I do not have issues with them. But I am sure if you wreck front end, it might be easy to break because only the ring is supporting the cups. Buy many spares!
I've only ran the CD/BD sleeve several years ago on my old original BD. But I do not think it was much stronger. It is too thin and lets the outdrives spread a little. The thick Tamiya aluminum sleeves do not let the outdrive spread at all.
Wear on the BD5 spool has been good so far. I do not have issues with them. But I am sure if you wreck front end, it might be easy to break because only the ring is supporting the cups. Buy many spares!
07-21-2009, 09:20 PM
#804
416 aluminum sleeve will work. You might have to shave it down too though. I only used 415 aluminum sleeve because I have many spares. And I already had them shaved down last year for the 416.
07-22-2009, 02:00 PM
#806
delrin will always wear much faster than alloy, so faster than the alloy diff (why is everybody complaining about that? I don't see any wear after 1 month of pure modified racing!!
the delrin cups need to be replaced as soon as there's a groove in it where the pin hugs in (NOT good for the cars performance!!)
in modified you will want to change outdrives every 1 or 2 race weekends
but as it's cheaper, you can replace it more often
the delrin cups need to be replaced as soon as there's a groove in it where the pin hugs in (NOT good for the cars performance!!)
in modified you will want to change outdrives every 1 or 2 race weekends
but as it's cheaper, you can replace it more often
07-22-2009, 03:35 PM
#807
That's not necessarily true. Alloy deforms and holds it's deformity. Derlin will flex or give a little. With my aluminum diff, the on and off of throttle caused the pins on the bones to beat up the back side of the out drives. Therefore they wore out quickly. AW grease or lube will just reduce friction/heat and some wear, but it still will not reduce deformity/notching caused by the slapping of the pins. But another point of view would be that the grease causes the pins to stick to the diff. Therefore it will not slap as much. Blah blah blah. LoL
I dunno, you are the pro. So you can drive smoother/better than we can.
I dunno, you are the pro. So you can drive smoother/better than we can.
07-22-2009, 05:12 PM
#808
I am using the Jaad spool(aluminum center with steel outdirves) with no wear so far. I realize it is a little heavier. But only a little. BTW the JAAD spool is for the old BD. But it fits fine as long as you have the old pulley or want to drill holes in the new pulley.
07-22-2009, 07:44 PM
#810
does anybody know of a company that makes stub axels that will fit the old bd and have a little more thread on them?