Hot Bodies Cyclone
08-11-2009, 08:43 AM
Yup, go to the middle hole. I think thats approx 10-15 deg of timing depending on manufacturing tolerances. I'm not 100% sure on that, but I AM 100% sure it's fast 
-Korey
-Korey
08-11-2009, 09:45 PM
08-11-2009, 10:29 PM
pom
hi, will it be ok to install POM diff ring locks instead of the usual retainer that is included with the POM spool outdrives? they are hard to remove come maintenance time. 
08-11-2009, 11:39 PM
08-12-2009, 08:28 AM
Phil,
(1) Thanks, excellent feedback.
I can relate 100% to the rear end issue when exiting a corner.
(2) I'm getting things a lot better than the kit setup but have not had much club track time since I purchased my TC (will make up for this when the new club opens around the corner from my place).
(3) Yes, my diff has been loose, so your diff comment is very relevant (and might explain a lot). I check my rear diff tension by holding both the rear wheels and trying to turn the centre pulley with my thumb. Just to confirm, this needs NO slip whatsoever. Also, I have just installed ceramic diff balls (not had the chance to run yet).
(4) Some photos would be greatly appreciated
I should be able to mount the belt tensioner somewhere else (if needed).
(5) I have two TC cars, so I can try cutting stuff, and still have an original as well.
(6) If you could post your setup that would be great I analyse them so I get a better understanding of what works under certain conditions (eg: lo, med, hi, & carpet tracks)
Thanks again
(1) Thanks, excellent feedback.
I can relate 100% to the rear end issue when exiting a corner.
(2) I'm getting things a lot better than the kit setup but have not had much club track time since I purchased my TC (will make up for this when the new club opens around the corner from my place).
(3) Yes, my diff has been loose, so your diff comment is very relevant (and might explain a lot). I check my rear diff tension by holding both the rear wheels and trying to turn the centre pulley with my thumb. Just to confirm, this needs NO slip whatsoever. Also, I have just installed ceramic diff balls (not had the chance to run yet).
(4) Some photos would be greatly appreciated
I should be able to mount the belt tensioner somewhere else (if needed).
(5) I have two TC cars, so I can try cutting stuff, and still have an original as well.
(6) If you could post your setup that would be great
I analyse them so I get a better understanding of what works under certain conditions (eg: lo, med, hi, & carpet tracks)Thanks again
No problem at all, sorry its taken so long for me to reply...
Here is a pic of how I have cut the topdecks and a base setup sheet for asphalt which I usually work from.
I will be testing with Andy M from Friday-Sunday at Snetterton Park track in the UK as it is the venue for the next UK national. I will post the setup I end up on if you like, as it is low-medium grip and could also be a good setup to work from.
Hope this helps,
Phil.
08-12-2009, 08:57 AM
Hi Cosmo,
No problem at all, sorry its taken so long for me to reply...
Here is a pic of how I have cut the topdecks and a base setup sheet for asphalt which I usually work from.
I will be testing with Andy M from Friday-Sunday at Snetterton Park track in the UK as it is the venue for the next UK national. I will post the setup I end up on if you like, as it is low-medium grip and could also be a good setup to work from.
Hope this helps,
Phil.
No problem at all, sorry its taken so long for me to reply...
Here is a pic of how I have cut the topdecks and a base setup sheet for asphalt which I usually work from.
I will be testing with Andy M from Friday-Sunday at Snetterton Park track in the UK as it is the venue for the next UK national. I will post the setup I end up on if you like, as it is low-medium grip and could also be a good setup to work from.
Hope this helps,
Phil.
Now I understand about the "one piece" top deck - looks interesting.
Do you have photo with the one piece top deck removed (I'm curious about the new motor mount)
Posting your setups, and why you changed things, would benefit all drivers.
I've noticed that a lot of the top drivers have a much lower front RC, AND a lot of weight over the front (relative to the kit setup).
Thanks again.
08-12-2009, 09:03 AM
Hi Cosmo,
No problem at all, sorry its taken so long for me to reply...
Here is a pic of how I have cut the topdecks and a base setup sheet for asphalt which I usually work from.
I will be testing with Andy M from Friday-Sunday at Snetterton Park track in the UK as it is the venue for the next UK national. I will post the setup I end up on if you like, as it is low-medium grip and could also be a good setup to work from.
Hope this helps,
Phil.
No problem at all, sorry its taken so long for me to reply...
Here is a pic of how I have cut the topdecks and a base setup sheet for asphalt which I usually work from.
I will be testing with Andy M from Friday-Sunday at Snetterton Park track in the UK as it is the venue for the next UK national. I will post the setup I end up on if you like, as it is low-medium grip and could also be a good setup to work from.
Hope this helps,
Phil.
Is HB gonna release this new topdeck any sooner & have you compared it with the new lipo top deck?
08-12-2009, 09:21 AM
Hi Cosmo,
The motormount started off as a std part and has been machined down so that the topdeck fits. I do not have a photo at this time sorry
.
I will take notes over the weekend and post setup changes/reasons which I hope could help everyone.
Hi Ali,
I can confirm that the topdeck/motormount are not geniuine HB prototype parts and have been designed and manufactured by a member of the UK team for testing purposes. I have heard that HB will be working on developing their TC platform, but will not be releasing anything similar to the parts we have been testing in the UK.
I have not ran the lipo topdeck as I don't race with lipo, we run 5 cell mod in the UK/Europe, I do feel that cutting the topdecks as I have pictured above gives a very similar effect to the 1 piece topdeck, and is a much easier solution! One thing I forgot to mention is that I flip the topdeck and use button head screws at the front instead of countersunk, this helps give a little more flex also.
Cheers,
Phil.
The motormount started off as a std part and has been machined down so that the topdeck fits. I do not have a photo at this time sorry
.I will take notes over the weekend and post setup changes/reasons which I hope could help everyone
. Hi Ali,
I can confirm that the topdeck/motormount are not geniuine HB prototype parts and have been designed and manufactured by a member of the UK team for testing purposes. I have heard that HB will be working on developing their TC platform, but will not be releasing anything similar to the parts we have been testing in the UK.
I have not ran the lipo topdeck as I don't race with lipo, we run 5 cell mod in the UK/Europe
, I do feel that cutting the topdecks as I have pictured above gives a very similar effect to the 1 piece topdeck, and is a much easier solution! One thing I forgot to mention is that I flip the topdeck and use button head screws at the front instead of countersunk, this helps give a little more flex also.Cheers,
Phil.
Last edited by Phil C; 08-12-2009 at 05:13 PM. Reason: Partly missleading
08-12-2009, 09:22 AM
If anyone is interested, there are 5 HB Cyclone TC kits at RC MART (I emailed them a couple of days ago to confirm stock). Strangely, none of the other mail order websites are reporting any stock.
Cheers
Cheers
08-12-2009, 09:37 AM
But i want to know if this could work also on old version arms?
In fact i don't think is enough just changing suspension arms.
Our new track's corners is made by concrete, they are really tough, i saw a gas car broke arm in 1st lap, was just a slightly touch.
Yes thats the correct part number for the old style arms.
The old front arms are swept back, so you will need to shim them differently to the TC arms in order to maintain the same wheelbase. With the TC arms I run 2.75mm at the front and 0mm behind. With the old style wisbones I run 0.75mm at the front and 2mm behind.
Hope this helps
The old front arms are swept back, so you will need to shim them differently to the TC arms in order to maintain the same wheelbase. With the TC arms I run 2.75mm at the front and 0mm behind. With the old style wisbones I run 0.75mm at the front and 2mm behind.
Hope this helps
08-14-2009, 06:15 PM
anyone have the spring rates for all the hara springs?
08-14-2009, 06:26 PM
Here you go:
Brand/Colour......Comp./ Ratio
Hara Yellow..........12.89lb/ 230g
Hara White...........13.98lb/ 250g
Hara Black............15.11lb/ 270g
Hot Bodies Blue.....15.3lb/ 273g
Hara Purple...........16.24lb/ 290g
Hot Bodies Silver....16.9lb/ 302g
Hara Red..............17.36lb/ 310g
Hot Bodies Pink......18.0lb/320g
Hot Bodies Gold......19.0lb/340g
Hot Bodies White....20.3lb/363g
Hot Bodies Yellow...21.7lb/388g
Hot Bodies Red.......22.4lb/400g
Brand/Colour......Comp./ Ratio
Hara Yellow..........12.89lb/ 230g
Hara White...........13.98lb/ 250g
Hara Black............15.11lb/ 270g
Hot Bodies Blue.....15.3lb/ 273g
Hara Purple...........16.24lb/ 290g
Hot Bodies Silver....16.9lb/ 302g
Hara Red..............17.36lb/ 310g
Hot Bodies Pink......18.0lb/320g
Hot Bodies Gold......19.0lb/340g
Hot Bodies White....20.3lb/363g
Hot Bodies Yellow...21.7lb/388g
Hot Bodies Red.......22.4lb/400g
Last edited by billythekid; 08-23-2009 at 12:55 AM.
08-14-2009, 06:39 PM
thanks
08-15-2009, 07:43 AM
Hi everyone, new owner of a second-hand Cyclone S...
Did a quick search and haven't found what I want to know, is there a DIY solution to protecting the diff outdrives (standard Cyclone ball diffs as far as I can tell) from the dogbones? My car doesn't have the CVD's, they're free-floating dogbones and I'm a little worried that over time they'll just kind of eat into the outdrive aluminum.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
Did a quick search and haven't found what I want to know, is there a DIY solution to protecting the diff outdrives (standard Cyclone ball diffs as far as I can tell) from the dogbones? My car doesn't have the CVD's, they're free-floating dogbones and I'm a little worried that over time they'll just kind of eat into the outdrive aluminum.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
08-15-2009, 11:42 AM
Tech Master
Even universals aren't connected on the diff side, they float like dog bones.
It will wear in time, but it takes a long time unless you are running serious power!
It will wear in time, but it takes a long time unless you are running serious power!
