JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Man, I'm having a HELLUVA time getting this stuff right . I'm trying to put 5mm in the frt and 4mm in the rear, but when I do that, I have almost nil of shock movement (like maybe 3/8"). Where are you measuring the droop from? From the little bar that surrounds the outermost edge of the arms?

- jAyBeE

Horatio

Thanks for this - it's a great no fuss guide and it has an excellent quick reference chart at the end.

Cheers!

johnbull

Hi friends. Greetings from Malta.

I've gone mad and swapped everything over from my thick carbon chassis to a CGM.

Main reason was that I needed to be seen to be running a car the same as I can sell and not a one off special.

To say that I'm impressed is putting it mildly. I have driven various customer CGMs but mainly with stock motors, but driving mine today with a 9 x 1 this car really is brilliant. I ran 4 packs today and am already doing the sort of lap times I did with my other car but this one feels so much easier to drive fast.

I'm running pretty much the same settings I had in the other car, same Corally shocks, tyres, electrics etc.

I'll keep you all posted now that I can talk proper CGM.

ritchie

one of the yok factory mechanics when setting my droop, use the outter edge of the arm just below the hinge pin and retaining screw. shocks off. 3/8 of shock travel, maybe you need to unscrew the shock end a couple of turns to allow more up travel. good luck.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Thanks man, after about 1.5 hours of fadangling, I finally figured it out . But I have to say, I won't ever forget how to do it. What a learning curve!

- jAyBeE

Mabuchi540

are the dogbones supposed to be a sloppy (side to side) fit in the outdrives makes the car produce an annoying noise (a click as the dogbone drops down when the pins are vertical) when they can move from side to side with each rotation?

I put 1/4 mm spacers on each side of the dogbone pins to stop the noise but then the free wheeling effect went away but it's just as smooth to rotate the spur.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

JayBee: to measure droop you can actually probe anywhere you want as long as it's always the same place. People use differenct measurement spots: below king pin, below C-hubs, below A-arm... it really depends on racers' habits, so when people fill-up setup sheets they should actually indicate where they made the measurement! Personnally I like to measure it below the king-pin... it's the easiest.

Measuring it with or without shocks should yield the same result, since it's the droop screw that limits A-arm travel, not the shock (although some people still use shock length to control droop, a method which I don't like). However... it happens sometimes that shock shafts "stick" to the O-rings, distorting the readings (the A-arms don't "bottom-out" like they should). Here's how I do it.
1- Unhook the lower shock retaining screw.
2- Make sure the A-arm is as low as possible (droop screw hitting chassis)
3- Adjust droop with droop screws
4- Make sure that, when fully extended, the shock bottom is lower that the mounting hole you want to use (so that it's still the droop screw that limits uptravel)
5- Reassemble

droop is a tricky thing to adjust and measure... because it's closely related to ride height, tire diameter, C-hub position, etc... the most important thing is to make sure it's symmetric, and that there IS some droop on your chassis (so that the wheels don't lift the ground as soon as you lift the chassis, in order to soak holes on the track and keep the tires on the ground in unloading situations)

Good luck!

PS : sorry if my english is not 100% clear... I do my best

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Hey look whos's back...

did you solve your transmission symmetry problem? How'd it go and what was the problem?

Mabuchi540

Actually I believe I did. Imagine if you will what would happen if one of the dogbones had a pin the was nearly 1mm further out the side of the bone (that being a longer pin than it should be) and at any given angle once per rotation it will get 1mm closer to the outdrive ring.

The end I sh*te you not.

Yokomo Aust

i have just installed the graphite bevel gear set on the front one way and the pin through the front drive cup does not line up with the front input shaft. I took 1 spacer out and all is well. Is this the right thing to do.

Trevor

Just check the usual thing in that the bearing is seated on the input gear and the gear is seated on the shaft properly. I've put graphite gears in and I didn't have to change the shimming. I've got about 0.75mm of backlash on the front with a one-way, running mod. Also make sure the bearing is sitting properly in its recess.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

yup, just push that bearing in as hard as you can! you should still be able to acess the pin hole even with shims... your bearing's probably not seated completely!

0.75mm? wow, that's quite a lot of play... no broken spurs problems? (especially with a one way...)

later
Paul

ritchie

so then the excessive droop you had wasn't the problem? you said with 3mm of screw showing (still not enough) the problem went away.

Mabuchi540

No it wasn't the droop as such but making it 3mm instead of kit suggested 2mm changed the angle enough that the longer than it should be pin doesn't hit it. The real solution will be to file the pin down.

Yeah I know it's excessive droop to start with (now) but hey it's my first on-road and that's what the book said to start with.

Mabuchi540

Additional to previous post.....

It was in the process of doing this bit ^^^^^ just before I posted this question that I noticed the above mentioned longer pin.