jslider

iTrader: (10)

I have not had any issues with an E-clip yet nor was it an issue when associated and losi used them on their vehicles would I prefer no E-clips I guess I would but that just is not a determining factor for me I just hate losing those damn things LOL

Woulvesbaine

iTrader: (12)

Exactly. Never threw a pin or anything because one came off. I've lost only one or two - it's a rare occurrence. It really just looks old school. Technically they probably save weight though. lol.

1101

In case anyone is considering the conversion kit....
I started my X2C/Tc02c conversion last night. The old front & rear assemblies simply unbolt making it really easy & quick.

Evo arms & rollbar arnt included. Apart from that everything need is in the conversion kit.
You get a new geardiff & new body. Thats what sold me on the conversion kit, I needed a new body & wanted a geardiff. The chassis plate seems almost the same, just approx 8mm longer. I guess I could use the old TC02c chassis plate if I wanted the car shorter.
The new evo batt strap just seems stupid. What were they thinking. No reason I couldnt mod the evo to take the TC02c bat posts & retainer, I may just do that.

The gear diff is a shocker. The worst I have come across. As noted by others , its too tight when assembled as is , really clicky/notchy...just bad.
One side of the gear diff has a definite wobble.
Apart from the diff, the gearbox as a whole is really smooth, no issues there.

The TC02c arms fit , TC02c cv's are about 1mm too short , but fit. They could pop out on a bad crash?
I also used alu rear hubs, as I had a pair in my spares box :-)

Only possible downside with the conversion kit is that racers uploaded setup sheets will be for the kit version (with different arms/hub & sway bar)

1101

Heres some pics of exactly whats in the conversion kit. All screws are included as well.




undo a few screws and the whole front pops off, ready to screw onto the evo as is


And finished. Just waiting on a much needed shock rebuild.
If you find the spur/clutch wont turn, it means youve left out a small spacer :-)


Given that the TC02 (rear motor) is almost the same as the TCO2c, I cant see any reason why the conversion kit wouldnt work for the TC02
You'll need to buy idler gears, apart from that the whole rear gearbox/shock arm section is in the conversion anyway.
The conversion kit makes mores sense converting a TC02 than a TC02C.

Clive

You just need a couple of the right thickness washers to accommodate the difference in the thickness of the T-Plate at the two inboard fixing points.

I've gone the other way and machined the new chassis to take the old style T-Plate and gearbox.

IntegraMark

iTrader: (1)

I think the old battery strap was overkill. wasn't trilled about using 4 body clips, I prefer the 2 thumb screws. before making the mod to fit the old strap, give the new one a try. i've had some serious crashes, tumbles and cartwheels and its held my battery in just fine.

Did you do the suggested maintenance to the gear diff before assembling it? deburring the shims that fit behind the sun gears should solve the problem. doubling up on the diff gasket also solves the issue.

I haven't heard of anyone having CV issues with their conversion...not yet at least but if it was a regular issue, it would have been mentioned already. keep us updated in case it does happen.

1101

I know I have to tear it down & rebuild it. I'll try 2x gaskets, or a thinner shim washer. Ive got 2 weeks before the next indoor race meet, so a bit of time to sort it out.
Strange thing is, the TS2TE I built last month had no issues with the geardiff, but had notchy gearbox. Exact opposite to the evo

1101

Any hints on getting motors to fit ? Its really tight.
My Speed Passion BL wont work, as the wires come straight out the endbell .

lee111m

I put a hole in the chassis so I could reach the bottom motor screw. But if your taking about the whole motor I take the whole gearbox out...mount the motor then put it back in. 8 screws, 4 on the bottom, 2 on the rear tower, 2 that hole the front brace on.

B_Allen28

iTrader: (24)

Several of the team guys have found that just taking the waterfall out is all thats needed to replace motor. 4 screws and your golden. Also the dremeling for the bottom motor screw is a good idea if you haven't done so already.

Welshmerlin

We have fitted an Aluminium T-Piece manufactured by Clive of HBI to our EVO. Beautifully made and a straight swap with the plastic T-Piece.

Raulote

I have just noticed from 1101 post pics that he is using flat rear lower arms (T02017) instead of T04008 that are gulled in the TC02CEvo version.

I have been investigating and noticed in the user manual that the old TC02C rear lower arms were flat (T02017) and the same that the Rear Motor cars, but with the new TC02C Evo it has changed to gulled form.

Have someone tested how this change the car performance?.

I ask you it because I know that for low grip tracks B5M drivers are using the B5RM lower arms looking for more traction.

Welshmerlin

The flat arms from the TC02C etc sweep the drive shafts forward which give more forward drive. We are using the gull wing arms with short wheelbase which results in a few degrees of forward sweep.

YamaDave

iTrader: (3)

Hi All,

I have some questions about my Team C Mid Motor I just picked up. From what I read here and looking at the Evo manual I believe mine is a previous version. Mine has the flat rear arms, 4 post battery hold down, and non big bore shocks. It appears to work pretty good on our tight indoor clay track.

My questions are:
Do I need any of the parts from the Evo? The arms are different for sure and I seem to have decent rear traction, is that the main benefit?
Is the chassis a different length or is it just the battery and motor mount changes between the two? Are you guys seeing a benefit to the Evo Chassis?

Thanks for the help guys
Dave

RoyJ

Dave, yours definitely sounds like the original TC02C, and its perfect for a tight indoor clay track. The main benefit of the EVO is increased bump handling, thanks to the longer chassis, longer wheel-base, and BB shocks. It seems to handle better on larger high-speed tracks. However, some C-EVO racers like the straight rear arms more for extra rear traction on slicker tracks. It helps also that the optional +1deg rear hub carriers (TU0237) are less expensive and more adjustable than the version for gull-wing arms.