chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Thanks gents, I'm using the xenon r5 style front-end but biased on this info I think I see the changes I'll do.

Scirocco

iTrader: (24)

if your running that I'd recommend speed merchant .017"-.018" springs and kyosho yellow grease on the king pin

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Thanks for the additional information, I'll check those out.

andrease

Anyone have a setup for ETS style carpet?
RSD V2

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Is there a way to lower the front end of the car to 3mm on fresh tires? I can loosen the preload on the front springs but that basically takes away any suspension travel and damping and it feels like the suspension is resting on the orings. I thought about putting washers under the front suspension arms like traditional front ends but that might mess with the roll center since the upper arm supports are independent from the lower suspension arm support. I could shim that up as well but might need longer screws which I dont have and they seem hard to source since they are so tiny.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Space the knuckles upwards by putting more of the shims under the knuckle instead of top. I don't know what you mean by "fresh tires" but something to note: 1.We NEVER run the car below 3.8mm in the front. The rear can be 3.5, but as this car rolls more in the front, it requires more ride height. Going down to 3mm is not recommended. 2. Even on asphalt. anything under 44mm is probably not going to be too good. I would not go any bigger.

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

Thanks CT, Fresh tires meaning right out of the box no truing. I was running on asphalt on a SMOOTH track and was traction rolling pretty badly, even on a tight slow 180 turn. Right height was 5mm front and rear and everyone was telling me that its too high. I tried taking out the preload to lower the car but the car just feels mushy in the front since the springs arent doing anything, and its just riding on the orings

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

If you are traction rolling, there is definitely too much grip on the track. You will definitely need to cut the tires down some. However, you should be able to lower the front by raising the knuckle.

Also, in high bite, what helps is less caster, less camber and maybe even some superglue on the sidewalls if you don't feel like truing them. I would really recommend to cut the tires down to no bigger than 43-43.5mm (even that is pretty big!) for the front and 1mm bigger in the rear. You will also find that the tires will have less of a tendency to chunk and the wear will even out. Remember that larger tires are effectively "softer" on a durometer, so this also will contribute to excessive squirm and have a higher tendency to flip.

peter george

iTrader: (377)

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

I have two of these, an RR12 AE conversion car and a RR12 T2, I had been running a roche in 17.5 and the T2 in 13.5 but I recently sold the roche so I'll either dig out the AE conversion car or run my trusty BMI again for awhile until I decide if I want the new roche.

peter george

iTrader: (377)

chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Lol, I think I was on track a total of 8 race days this entire year, no tracks near me so I'm jealous. I like the T2, fairly easy to drive but would like some better corner entry with it. Tried the spool for the first time my last track day a couple of months ago and found that running the spool gave me the corner entry I had been looking for. In all honesty the AE conversion car was always too edgy and I never got it to work very well for me, I am considering putting a spool in it just to see how it would feel. Maybe I'll be able to get to a track in Jan or Feb to try that out; good luck this weekend Peter.

disaster999

iTrader: (1)

I got the T2 upgrade kit from CT the other day and started to put the car together last night. I really wish there was a manual for these cars as it involved a lot of trail and error, putting one thing on, taking 10 different things off, 2 steps forward, 3 steps back....you get the idea.

I got the newer style arms with the ball and cup setup instead of Orings, hoping for a smoother operation, which it did but it did mess with the geometry a bit and I had to shim the ball studs up 2mm, and dial in a lot of down stop inorder to get 4mm right height in the front. It preloaded the front springs quite a bit and it just didnt "look" right. Could anyone take some detailed photos of their front end for me just so I know how its built?

Also it seem like the rear pod is narrower pushing the left (non diff side) in. Measured it with the calipers and it seems like I need around 10mm of shims on that side just to even out the width.

Not sure if these photos shows much but heres now I built the front end

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)