davidl

iTrader: (41)

SG1 - If you had a layout featuring several tight 180 corners, would you use the same front suspension combination that you have posted?

sg1

iTrader: (79)

Nope!

I'd go to more castor (move shims back)
from 3/4 to 1* camber
larger diameter front tires (from 1.57" to 1.60" to start)

You can also go to .55mm side springs

Try 1 thing at a time and see what works for you.
If you don't feel a change or like the change put it back and try the next thing.

Codfather

iTrader: (14)

SG1, some quick questions on assembly, sorry if they've been asked somewhere else.
1. Did you use 5/8 spacers between the main chassis and the XTI tweak plate? The springs jam pretty bad on the side links otherwise. I had to use 5/8" plus a 2mm spacer.
2. The side springs from the tweak plate rest on the side links?
3. I saw in one of your previous posts that you raised the outer damper tube slightly, I guess this was to prevent the damper tube hitting a screw head?
4. I don't recognize the front shock ball mount. It looks like its about 1/2" tall. Can I make it work with the XTI front shock mount?

Some more pics would be great too! Thanks in advance.

sg1

iTrader: (79)

1. I used the 1/2" spacers with some big shims, about the same over all height you do.
2. With the XTi inline rear cross brace on, the side springs are on the side links.
3. I counter sunk the XTi cross brace and put flat heads in place of the button heads. They weren't 100% flush, I didn't want to make the counter sink too big, so I shimmed the outer ball up .03" for extra clearance. Not pretty, but it works
4.The front shock mount is an IRS ballstud. It's 3/8" long.

My car is at the track, but I'll be there this weekend and get some more pics posted this weekend.

davidl

iTrader: (41)

SG1 - thanks for the ideas for the front suspension here. I put this on my regular XTi (battery transverse and forward). Used the 2.0mm roll center shim instead of the 2.5mm. Used 30K dampening instead of 50. I liked the .45 springs on this and didn't have trouble with the outside front dipping too much. Car was very solid after moving battery forward. Seems much better than the stock setup from the kit. Appears it will do well on heavy traction as well as the light traction we have at our track. And it did well on the 180's we had.

volumex

iTrader: (4)

Hi there, I just purchased a altered ego does anyone know what the centre spring/color rates. I have the newer type plus some older silver and gold colored ones.

cheers, P.

Harry Carlock

I am new to 1/12 scale
could someone write up there process of setting up the car
along with where and how to adjust things and where to messure

thanks

Harry

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

That's a loaded question lol but basically when I'm setting up my 1/12th I start with tire size. Get them where you like it dependant on the track

I run mine 45mm rears 43mm fronts. Next set your ride height for our bumpy track it 4mm all around

rear track width I go with about 180mm (use shims and also make sure both sides are even

front Toe I set next to around zero to neg 1 degree (out)

Now I get the camber to around -1 degree

Set tweak next (with out damper tubes installed)

Other settings you may want to play with

Damper tube oil weight
center spring oil and tension

Harry Carlock

i really don't want to sound dumb but i will,
i know how to change ride hieghts front and rear pod
but what about droop how do i set that front and rear
and is the ring on shock for adjusting rear of main chassis

thanks

biz77

iTrader: (47)

Spend some time here. You will learn a considerable amount:

http://markpayneblog.blogspot.com/se...a%2012th%20Car

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Droop is how much from ride height the center of the car moved up when lifted before the shock hits it's stop.

to adjust you need to lengthen (more) the shock by unscrewing the rod end of the shock or for less droop make it shorter


the adjustment on the shock is to adjust the center ride height.

slowpoke68

iTrader: (28)

i know the new chassis is based on the altered ego but didn't see any threads on it yet.my question is with the new chassis do i need to have the brace on the upper arms or is the chassis stiff enough so i can do away with it.looking to use it in my 13.5 class.

dumper

iTrader: (1)

None of the team guys use the upper arm brace in 13.5

slowpoke68

iTrader: (28)

kit on order and electronics on stand by hope i get it before next week i need to keep up my tradition of a new car before a club race well i need a 13.5 car anyways and cann't wait to run this chassis.