Tamiya FF03
#512
Tech Rookie
i want this so bad but im in tacoma washington so no TCS here anyway
and i dont want to spend 200 dollars on a kit to bash
and i dont want to spend 200 dollars on a kit to bash
#513
And I think there will be a TCS back up here soon enough. I know quite a few people are trying to figure out how to get one back up here
#514
Did my first race with the FF03 today. Tried some different things through out the day.
I ran it with a SP V3 17.5 in a no-timing class using a KO BMC(finally found a use for it) I ended up with a FDR of 3.1 using a 74spur and 62T pinion, temped around 150F.
Had some hard time keeping up with the 4WD out of the turns, but was able to make up on the straight. There is huge potential for corner speed if you can find the correct tire/insert combination for the front and rear. Using the same tires F/R is ok, but does not feel optimal. You will need to warm up the rear prior to the race or you will be doing donuts for the first 5 laps.
Zero front droop is mandatory, and some rear anti-squat helped too.
I also tried widening up the front track width using 1B blocks, and felt really stable. I think the 1XD fronts make the car too nervous imo. I think whatever lightening parts you can use on this car (w/o sacrificing strength) is key to battle against 4wd. I'd like to try a much harder spring/shock setup next time as there still is a lot of body roll.
I ran it with a SP V3 17.5 in a no-timing class using a KO BMC(finally found a use for it) I ended up with a FDR of 3.1 using a 74spur and 62T pinion, temped around 150F.
Had some hard time keeping up with the 4WD out of the turns, but was able to make up on the straight. There is huge potential for corner speed if you can find the correct tire/insert combination for the front and rear. Using the same tires F/R is ok, but does not feel optimal. You will need to warm up the rear prior to the race or you will be doing donuts for the first 5 laps.
Zero front droop is mandatory, and some rear anti-squat helped too.
I also tried widening up the front track width using 1B blocks, and felt really stable. I think the 1XD fronts make the car too nervous imo. I think whatever lightening parts you can use on this car (w/o sacrificing strength) is key to battle against 4wd. I'd like to try a much harder spring/shock setup next time as there still is a lot of body roll.
#515
Did my first race with the FF03 today. Tried some different things through out the day.
I ran it with a SP V3 17.5 in a no-timing class using a KO BMC(finally found a use for it) I ended up with a FDR of 3.1 using a 74spur and 62T pinion, temped around 150F.
Had some hard time keeping up with the 4WD out of the turns, but was able to make up on the straight. There is huge potential for corner speed if you can find the correct tire/insert combination for the front and rear. Using the same tires F/R is ok, but does not feel optimal. You will need to warm up the rear prior to the race or you will be doing donuts for the first 5 laps.
Zero front droop is mandatory, and some rear anti-squat helped too.
I also tried widening up the front track width using 1B blocks, and felt really stable. I think the 1XD fronts make the car too nervous imo. I think whatever lightening parts you can use on this car (w/o sacrificing strength) is key to battle against 4wd. I'd like to try a much harder spring/shock setup next time as there still is a lot of body roll.
I ran it with a SP V3 17.5 in a no-timing class using a KO BMC(finally found a use for it) I ended up with a FDR of 3.1 using a 74spur and 62T pinion, temped around 150F.
Had some hard time keeping up with the 4WD out of the turns, but was able to make up on the straight. There is huge potential for corner speed if you can find the correct tire/insert combination for the front and rear. Using the same tires F/R is ok, but does not feel optimal. You will need to warm up the rear prior to the race or you will be doing donuts for the first 5 laps.
Zero front droop is mandatory, and some rear anti-squat helped too.
I also tried widening up the front track width using 1B blocks, and felt really stable. I think the 1XD fronts make the car too nervous imo. I think whatever lightening parts you can use on this car (w/o sacrificing strength) is key to battle against 4wd. I'd like to try a much harder spring/shock setup next time as there still is a lot of body roll.
#516
ff 03
Hi guys need some adivce...
I got my ff03 pro kits ..during the installation i found that with the stock dog bone and wheel axles ..it doesn't work....
When i turn at certain angle the dog bone just stop the wheel from turning
Look like i need to ugrade to universal axles?
CAn help anyone? could it be my installation is wrong???
Thanks
I got my ff03 pro kits ..during the installation i found that with the stock dog bone and wheel axles ..it doesn't work....
When i turn at certain angle the dog bone just stop the wheel from turning
Look like i need to ugrade to universal axles?
CAn help anyone? could it be my installation is wrong???
Thanks
#517
Tech Regular
Looking for a scale or scale-ish rear wing to fit on the tamiya Golf GTi shell if anyone can suggest one ? carn't find the suzuki swift one anywhere.
#518
Hi guys need some adivce...
I got my ff03 pro kits ..during the installation i found that with the stock dog bone and wheel axles ..it doesn't work....
When i turn at certain angle the dog bone just stop the wheel from turning
Look like i need to ugrade to universal axles?
CAn help anyone? could it be my installation is wrong???
Thanks
I got my ff03 pro kits ..during the installation i found that with the stock dog bone and wheel axles ..it doesn't work....
When i turn at certain angle the dog bone just stop the wheel from turning
Look like i need to ugrade to universal axles?
CAn help anyone? could it be my installation is wrong???
Thanks
Tamiya Cross Joints For Universal Shaft Set 4pcs. 53500
Tamiya 46mm Swing Shaft Hard 51092
Tamiya TB-03 Wheel Axles 54076
#519
#520
I used the axel for a ta04 kit fit perfect!!!
ther 42mm shafts
#521
#522
Tech Master
#523
The front tires temp was waaaay hotter than the rear. I guess I can try 40R with standard inserts and maybe a 28 with soft inserts in the rear. Also might take the 5000mah batt to a lighter 4000. Too bad you can't move the batt like the short courses.
On another note, the plastic susblock on the front cracked upon a hit to the boards. Alum upgrade is recommended.
#524
Tech Elite
iTrader: (26)
As redbones suggested, if you didn't flip the diff during assembly (an easy mistake, as the "twisted arrow" is a little subtle) the inner screw assembly will be really wide, affecting the driveshaft fit. Come to think of it, this may be the problem for the binding dogbone guy above.
#525
I used 46mm as well and they fit perfectly, just as they do on every other car with 1D/1XD and the short arms.
As redbones suggested, if you didn't flip the diff during assembly (an easy mistake, as the "twisted arrow" is a little subtle) the inner screw assembly will be really wide, affecting the driveshaft fit. Come to think of it, this may be the problem for the binding dogbone guy above.
As redbones suggested, if you didn't flip the diff during assembly (an easy mistake, as the "twisted arrow" is a little subtle) the inner screw assembly will be really wide, affecting the driveshaft fit. Come to think of it, this may be the problem for the binding dogbone guy above.