JatoTheRipper

iTrader: (11)

Which aluminum servo horn are you guys using? I've seen Losi and Racers Edge mentioned in this thread, but nobody seems to agree and I haven't seen any actual part numbers or links.

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

one thing that i noticed on the ball studs is that they are all NOT perfectly round. Some you can see that there is almost a flat ridge in the middle. I don't believe the ball cups are the issue it is more of the ball stud not being completely round. Once you sand and polish the ridges off of them they are bind free.

GTSSTANG

iTrader: (22)

I have come to the same conclusion. Each of the ball studs in my MM had a flat spot and when I upgraded to Lunsford ball studs the binding was gone.

seth556

iTrader: (43)

I ran with the kid who was running the RM during practice when the track was semi-slick and smooth and had no problem staying with him. We mostly just followed each other and tried to lay down some fast laps, I think I hot lapped him by 2 tenths. So I wouldn't say it was the bumps or traction that held it back, I think it's more of a personal preference. There was 7 B5 buggies in the a-main of stock, and only one was a RM.

I know Jeremy (who won) had built a RM a few months ago, ran it probably 15 minutes in practice and sold it. I did the same thing. It may just be a florida thing where everyone hates RM.

The RM may jump a little farther or have more traction when the track is super loose, but in every other area the mid is probably better.

Vegas456

I did not experience that problem. All it took to get rid of the binding was to squeeze the ball cups with a needle nose pliers. I have heard a lot of people say they like the lunsford ones though

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I have both cars. I like things about both. The MM would be my first choice, but no mater how hard I try, lol. I just make more mistakes with the MM. If those mistakes went away, I am sure I would be faster with the MM. The MM car just does something "unexpected" more often than the RM. When I rebuild my car, I may go back to MM. Our new layout is in and it looks like a bunch or 180's.

Here is the new layout at SRS. I have not seen it yet. Today is the first day it is open to the public. I dont know what the far left and right sides look like.

carcrusher46

iTrader: (17)

I recommend sticking with the stock plastic servo arm if possible - with no servo saver, the servo arm itself is the weakest link in the system and can save the servo a lot of internal damage when the arm breaks. Sure, it may cost you your heat, but it won't cost you $25 for a gear set or $100 for a whole new servo!

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

[QUOTE=Wild Cherry;13491123]Jason, regardless of what this guy ^^^ might tell you, DON'T give a detailed build up in this thread. Create your own thread and if people want to follow along they can. Thank you.

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

What do you have spies all over the country reporting back to you? How would you know this?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I know some people from AZ that went to the race

Bubonic-X

iTrader: (4)

They are from the ESC company Viper.

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

I've never seen anyone have an issue with the current factory servo horns that have the aluminum ring on them. I personally see no reason to go to an aluminum horn.

Along with this ^^^

Wild Cherry

seen the new Viper's
I like , come with plugs so you can attach short or longer servo leads easily.

Most likely my next servo...

bilster44

iTrader: (1)

And that is your problem too...you give up on one to fall back on the other...rm's are not even better outdoors on non sugared tracks either. Stick with one, figure it out, listen to the right people, and don't run bone headed set ups either. Over thinking the set up on a B5M will only result in problems.

Jason Baliban

Thank you for the clarification.

jB