TC3 Forum
#676
TC3 Carpet Setup - Rubber
This is my setup and it works very well for carpet with rubber tires. It will work well as a good starting point and then tune it to what you want. If you try it and there is a change you're looking for, let me know and I'll tell what to do to make it work.
Front:
40wt Assoc. Oil
Gold Spring
Shock all the way in
Front One-way
Camber link up and in
Camber -2
F+2 block
2 degree hub
No swaybar
Droop 6
Rear:
40wt Assoc. Oil
Silver Spring
Shock all the way in
Rear Plastic Diff
Camber link up and in
Camber -2
R 3+2 block
No sawybar
Droop 4
Battery Forward
RH = 5mm all around
Motor MVP 34/100 on 115' straight
Tires = Sorex 24R with Hpi Red Front, Sorex 20R with Hpi Red Rear
Preferred Rim = Ofna Dish
Preferred Body = Protoform Stratus
I let my tires soak with TQ Orange for about 10 minutes and then just before the race I clean them off with Motor Spray and a clean towel(very important).
I usually use one set of Sorex 24's and 20's and then rotate them in for even wear. It also very important to rotate your tires side to side for best wear and longer life. If I need more front bite, I'll go to 20's all the way around. If I need to free the car up to rotate more around corners, I'll put the 24's all the way around, but usually it 24 on the front and 20 on the back.
It's very importnat to check your steerinf radius each heat. Make sure your car steers no larger that a 6' circle. I run mine at about 4'. Use zero expo and as much Dual rate as you're comfortable with. If your radio has endpoints or ATL as it's known, use them first to change your steering radius while retaining 100% Dual rate for the best linear feel to the steering response.
A couple fo other things worth doing. Lock your servo saver for the best steering response and make your car easier to drive and more predictable. There's enough play in the fornt end of the car to give so don't worry about the servo(I've not lost one in 2 years). Secondly, if your setup doesn't generate enough overall traction, go back to the plastic chassis. Allowing a little more flex in the car via the chassis will produce more traction overall with very little loss in steering response or corner speed IMO.
Front:
40wt Assoc. Oil
Gold Spring
Shock all the way in
Front One-way
Camber link up and in
Camber -2
F+2 block
2 degree hub
No swaybar
Droop 6
Rear:
40wt Assoc. Oil
Silver Spring
Shock all the way in
Rear Plastic Diff
Camber link up and in
Camber -2
R 3+2 block
No sawybar
Droop 4
Battery Forward
RH = 5mm all around
Motor MVP 34/100 on 115' straight
Tires = Sorex 24R with Hpi Red Front, Sorex 20R with Hpi Red Rear
Preferred Rim = Ofna Dish
Preferred Body = Protoform Stratus
I let my tires soak with TQ Orange for about 10 minutes and then just before the race I clean them off with Motor Spray and a clean towel(very important).
I usually use one set of Sorex 24's and 20's and then rotate them in for even wear. It also very important to rotate your tires side to side for best wear and longer life. If I need more front bite, I'll go to 20's all the way around. If I need to free the car up to rotate more around corners, I'll put the 24's all the way around, but usually it 24 on the front and 20 on the back.
It's very importnat to check your steerinf radius each heat. Make sure your car steers no larger that a 6' circle. I run mine at about 4'. Use zero expo and as much Dual rate as you're comfortable with. If your radio has endpoints or ATL as it's known, use them first to change your steering radius while retaining 100% Dual rate for the best linear feel to the steering response.
A couple fo other things worth doing. Lock your servo saver for the best steering response and make your car easier to drive and more predictable. There's enough play in the fornt end of the car to give so don't worry about the servo(I've not lost one in 2 years). Secondly, if your setup doesn't generate enough overall traction, go back to the plastic chassis. Allowing a little more flex in the car via the chassis will produce more traction overall with very little loss in steering response or corner speed IMO.
#677
Tech Adept
What setup changes need to be made when going from foam to rubber on carpet? I printed off the carpet setup for foams from Tony’s site, it looks like Greg’s is considerably softer. Is softer better for rubber on carpet?
Thank you,
Dave
Thank you,
Dave
#678
Foam Setup for Carpet
racerdave, here is my setup for foam on carpet. Look at the setup changes and you will be able to see the effective amount of traction that foams generate is substantially higher.
Front:
Assoc. 80wt
White Spring
Shock in Middle hole
Front Diff
Canmber link down and in
Camber -1.5
F+2 Block
4 Degree Hub
Buds .78 Front Swaybar
Droop 7
Rear:
Assoc. 60 wt
Purple Spring
Shock in middle hole
Rear Diff
Camber link up and in
Camber -1.5
R 2+0 Block
Assoc. kit swaybar
Droop 6
Battery Back
RH = 3mm
Reedy Ti 8x2 28/100 with 2.22 tire
Tires: Jaco 28mm Plaid in front, Jaco 28mm Purple in rear
Let tires soak with traction compound for two heats. Usually apply 1/2 inside front and full rear dope. Usually have to drop my ATL about 30 pts to get a 6'-7' radius circle.
This setup is clise to what the predominant setup was at Cleveland this year. It works very well in both stock and mod.
Front:
Assoc. 80wt
White Spring
Shock in Middle hole
Front Diff
Canmber link down and in
Camber -1.5
F+2 Block
4 Degree Hub
Buds .78 Front Swaybar
Droop 7
Rear:
Assoc. 60 wt
Purple Spring
Shock in middle hole
Rear Diff
Camber link up and in
Camber -1.5
R 2+0 Block
Assoc. kit swaybar
Droop 6
Battery Back
RH = 3mm
Reedy Ti 8x2 28/100 with 2.22 tire
Tires: Jaco 28mm Plaid in front, Jaco 28mm Purple in rear
Let tires soak with traction compound for two heats. Usually apply 1/2 inside front and full rear dope. Usually have to drop my ATL about 30 pts to get a 6'-7' radius circle.
This setup is clise to what the predominant setup was at Cleveland this year. It works very well in both stock and mod.
#679
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
Greg, have you tried that same setup except with HPI green inserts? My buddy from Ripon said the greens work as well as the reds there. I would think the greens might make the tire last a little longer. The only reason I ask is that we are going to the Snowbirds so I'm collecting as much carpet info as I can. Thanks bro.
#680
Hpi Red Green and others.
BigDogRacing, we put all of the available inserts in our possession to the durometer to find out their effective rating. I don't recall the specific numbers(somewhere around 22 for red I think), but this is what we found.
Soft > Hard = Yok Soft, Yok Med, Yok Hard, Hpi Red, Hpi Green.
I did test sets of Greens and Reds but found I liked the Red the most. They gave more overall traction, maybe at the sacrafice of durability. I do like the green insert in the Pit 25 and Pit 20 tires, that's another very good combo. Always be sure to rotate your tires every run and adjust camber per the tire wear. I use -2 as a start and then adjust to make sure the wear centers on the middle 3/4 of the tire patch. If wear is to the inside or outside adjust accordingly. I often time find my outside front tire at -2.5 degrees due to the end of the straightaway wear factor...
If you run on a bumpier surface, use the yok inserts as they leave more gap(space) inside the tire which helps absorb some of the diparities in the rough surface making the car easier to drive.
Soft > Hard = Yok Soft, Yok Med, Yok Hard, Hpi Red, Hpi Green.
I did test sets of Greens and Reds but found I liked the Red the most. They gave more overall traction, maybe at the sacrafice of durability. I do like the green insert in the Pit 25 and Pit 20 tires, that's another very good combo. Always be sure to rotate your tires every run and adjust camber per the tire wear. I use -2 as a start and then adjust to make sure the wear centers on the middle 3/4 of the tire patch. If wear is to the inside or outside adjust accordingly. I often time find my outside front tire at -2.5 degrees due to the end of the straightaway wear factor...
If you run on a bumpier surface, use the yok inserts as they leave more gap(space) inside the tire which helps absorb some of the diparities in the rough surface making the car easier to drive.
#681
Has anyone tried the Echo Inserts?
I hear these are the bomb.
I hear these are the bomb.
#683
BRP bumpers
OK I know I drive pretty bad but I did break 2 front arms and bent the pins Sunday night. I didnt think I even hit the boards that hard. How well does the BRP front bumper (nerfs and rear also I guess) really help when you hit the boards with the wheels in a turn as they are not straight and stick out Aa slight bit. Also as for my earlier post about astro turf has anyone run on it b4. I had plenty of traction in front with good turn in but the back would want to hook. I still need to play with my set ups but any I deas for this type of surface will help
BTW one of the cars that usually wins the A-main is a TC3 so I will try to adopt his set up one move at a time.
BTW one of the cars that usually wins the A-main is a TC3 so I will try to adopt his set up one move at a time.
#684
TP > If you need some, SpeedTech is ordering them this week. Just email him what you want Thats what i am doing.
have you tried their new inserts? i think they are called high traction? it is in the new add in the magazines.
have you tried their new inserts? i think they are called high traction? it is in the new add in the magazines.
#685
TP > To make life more confusing, check out this link http://www.powers-international.com/...ex-english.htm
Looks like the JC High Pressure Insert goes Green (H), Red (M), and Yellow (S).
Or are you using the JC High Traction Insert? Yellow (H), Red (M), and Green (S).
Do you know which one you used? I believe the High Pressure ones are new.
thanks......
Looks like the JC High Pressure Insert goes Green (H), Red (M), and Yellow (S).
Or are you using the JC High Traction Insert? Yellow (H), Red (M), and Green (S).
Do you know which one you used? I believe the High Pressure ones are new.
thanks......
#686
Tech Initiate
Dragonslayer,
I'm very aware what the manual says about moving the battery forward as well as puting the swaybar on the rear. You asked for advise on a carpet setup, so I gave it to you. As you can see, Pat Collins is saying the same thing. I'm not doing you wrong, give it a try before questioning it. You should be pleasantly surprised.
Greg
I'm very aware what the manual says about moving the battery forward as well as puting the swaybar on the rear. You asked for advise on a carpet setup, so I gave it to you. As you can see, Pat Collins is saying the same thing. I'm not doing you wrong, give it a try before questioning it. You should be pleasantly surprised.
Greg
#687
Greg...the things you posted make sense....thanks
I changed my setup and it seemed to work really welll, here is what i came up with....for Ozite
cs-22's med insert with Paragon fx2
rh-5mm.
droop-5 fr/3rr
links-up and in
2* blocks
80 wt.fr and rr
yellow fr/purple rr
batt. back(going to try middle and front)
fr and rr sway
kit-toe in blocks front and rear
p2k.......22/72
36' by 60' track
stratus
qualified 2nd out of 8 and finished 2nd.
I changed my setup and it seemed to work really welll, here is what i came up with....for Ozite
cs-22's med insert with Paragon fx2
rh-5mm.
droop-5 fr/3rr
links-up and in
2* blocks
80 wt.fr and rr
yellow fr/purple rr
batt. back(going to try middle and front)
fr and rr sway
kit-toe in blocks front and rear
p2k.......22/72
36' by 60' track
stratus
qualified 2nd out of 8 and finished 2nd.
#688
Greg.....Wasnt hacking on you bro...as you can see by the time on my post, i was typing while you were posting...anyway,i'm going to go with the split pack, then all the way forward...see what happens....thanks for everyones input.
#689
Tech Regular
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Orange County TrackMasters "The Home of R/C Champions"
Posts: 430
The Ruler is back!
that's right boys, BendingCorners is back to RC racing since I've spent $600 on snow equipment and we have no dang snow in our local mountains.
TP, man miss you at the hobby store, things just aren't the same. I might have to spend that additional $ on gas and come over to you new work location.
TP, I'm in the process of putting another race BIG race together called the OCI (Orange County Invitational). More to come!
Attention all racers, beware, I'm back and now I have sponsors!
C Y @ the track!
TP, man miss you at the hobby store, things just aren't the same. I might have to spend that additional $ on gas and come over to you new work location.
TP, I'm in the process of putting another race BIG race together called the OCI (Orange County Invitational). More to come!
Attention all racers, beware, I'm back and now I have sponsors!
C Y @ the track!
#690
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Hey...ummm, news is I heard that TP guy is at the SAME location...hasn't moved....you should stop by to check him out!!!
The OCI, eh?? And, ummm, where might that take place??
AND!!! Sponsors??? Well, if you spent $600 on snow stuff, might one of your sponsors be, ummm, Nordic?? Maybe DA KINE, or even CamelBak or EMS??? Oh wait, you mean R/C SPONSORS!!!!! Ummm, who?
So what's up??? How's things?
The OCI, eh?? And, ummm, where might that take place??
AND!!! Sponsors??? Well, if you spent $600 on snow stuff, might one of your sponsors be, ummm, Nordic?? Maybe DA KINE, or even CamelBak or EMS??? Oh wait, you mean R/C SPONSORS!!!!! Ummm, who?
So what's up??? How's things?