JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Thanks Mugen10

Had to get one of these myself to go with its big brother. Building this made me realize how much I missed 12th-scale. Finicky little buggers, but I like that. No complaints about the build whatsoever...

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

Opps

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

What are you talking about? 3rd pic, what does the battery wire say? What you're looking at is Deans Ultra 14gauge (battery) & 16gauge (motor) wire.
I may be old but I'm not new....

Mugen10

iTrader: (9)

Wow, they look thick. I guess its just the pictures or my eyes. My bad

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Make sure motor wires do not touch the body
And heat shrinking them together is not a good idea, makes wires stiffer, which will affect pod movement

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

will do

Logi Maker

iTrader: (56)

That a kid.... I knew I liked you.

oddski

I use 16 on motor and 12 wet noodles for battery:$

JamesL_71

iTrader: (13)

I think a lot of us are used to seeing TQ's 16g wire, which is actually quite a bit thinner than most of the other brands... including Deans.

If you ever feel so compelled, you may want to re-wire the car using TQ 16g for the motor and the TQ1000(~14.5g) for the battery leads. Not only will it trim some fat from the car, but it will free up the rear pod as well.

And ditto what Dave said re: heat shrinking the motor wires...

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

I'll check on the TQ stuff but the pod is plenty free already and the car weighs in at 740 grams.
Thanks for the tips

valk

iTrader: (13)

Jaybee; i run 14ga silicon wire that cane with my orca esc on this car. You should loop your wires the other way though. Helps fit it under the body and i havent had issues with it hitting the tire ect.
Tq wire is great im sure but i for one dont go out of my way to get wires lol. Unless its snagging on something your really not likely to notice the wire bunging anything up.
12ga would be a little excessive but ive felt how how 16ga can get in mod cars. Ill always stick to a heavier wire keep it safe.
As for trimming weight... I thought he car was quite good. Maybe im doing it wrong lol. Everytime i build it i have to ADD weight. Never had my 12r5's come up heavy

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Before the AE I ran the VBC briefly. And I know in 17.5 the 2 bodies are usually the amr12's or CRC Black Art's. I tried both and really preferred the CRC; it felt smoother (I don't know how else to describe it). The amr12 just seemed a tic edgier. Im gonna try both myself but wanted to know you folks impressions of the 2 bodies on this car?

valk

iTrader: (13)

in 17.5 or even 13.5 you dont really need high downforce. not sure where the amr fits into that scheme but the r8c blackart is considered low downforce which should work better in slower classes.
ive never really had a chance to mess about with pf bodies in 1/12 but never had a complaint about the blackarts. guy in our club sells them and they are very popular.
though i am still looking for a good body for modified. probably stick to the blackart bomber but meh. they just dont last and i cant afford to have $100 in experimental bodies on my bench heh.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

hi guys, can the 1/12 play on normal track ? what is the maximum ride height it can adjust ? is the track must be high traction ??

Me_MrTyson

iTrader: (11)

My experience of the bodies u talk about

Amr = consistency and low speed turn in
Tr12 = right setup can use this body good mid corner steering. Wrong setup gives bad feel to car less confident
Audi r8c = great high speed grip stable and rotation
Mowhawk = very neutral feel really good corner speed
Bombr = Amr like but big steering great outdoor body

This is just from my experience and testing