chicagokenji

We have a 100 foot straightaway and are 36 feet wide.. I run an FK04. 4.2 FDR is slower than 4.4-4.6 FDR for me. I recently went to 0-degrees toe-in on the rear and I'm faster through tighter turns.

NUCRPTRACER

iTrader: (7)

[QUOTE=lp3233;5556988]Thanks, I will give a try. It is basically the rubber tire setup with some slight changes? QUOTE]

...Yes it is basically a rubber tire setup...It works well for a starting point for VTA....You will have more traction w/the VTA tires...

speedsterblade

My tc4 handles great except, I got weird roll type problem on my tc4 tub chassis but it's from the chassis draggin when I'm not smooth in the inputs...the front outside edges of the chassis picks up goo from the carpet, builds up on the chassis and after while get enough goo to start grabbin & flipp the car! Swaybars helped the car stay level under hard corning and really quick'n up handling through the tight stuff but still rubbing some...and flippin. I'm running 5.5mm ride height.

I'm going to try 5-10wt thicker oil up front, been running 30wt w/ sliver springs, #2 pistions. Steering could use some quicking up anyways. Or would I be better off going w/ smaller pistions?

I ususally clean if off before each run, which works...but forgot yestday and it cost me the win!

Anyone else seeing this on their TC3/4? Stiffen up the front with thick oil or smaller pistions was my suggestion...what do you setup pros think?

NUCRPTRACER

iTrader: (7)

Whats your droop set at?....Thicker oil wouldnt hurt or different pistons but unfortunately I would do one before the other....Is it in front of the front wheels or behind?

speedsterblade

Droop measured from ride height is:
front 2-2.5mm
rear 1-1.5mm

it rubs behind the front wheels, where the chassis widens..the widest part of the chassis. It's the corners just OUT of frame in at the top of this pic.

wiscnitro

iTrader: (22)

[QUOTE=speedsterblade;5558179]Droop measured from ride height is:
front 2-2.5mm
rear 1-1.5mm

it rubs behind the front wheels, where the chassis widens..the widest part of the chassis. It's the corners just OUT of frame in at the top of this pic.


Did you try stiffer springs? might keep it from squating too much

robk

iTrader: (22)

You may need to raise the hinge pin blocks

NUCRPTRACER

iTrader: (7)

I would try less frnt droop and raise the hinge pins as Rob k said.....I would go to 35wt 0r 40wt oil up front ...By raising the hinge pins your creating a higher roll center which will decrease chassis roll...You can also adjust your camber link positions by lowering and moving outward the inner link position and shimming the outer link will raise the roll center also..

What rear springs are you running?

speedsterblade

Thanks guys, I got the hinge pins as low as the go & flat both Front and rear. I assume you guys are talking about raising the front pins?
I will try raising the front pins up to the middle setting....and revisit my camberlinks/ballstud heights. ..then prolly thicken up the front oil. Again thanks for the help!...really helps make the most out of the track time! Trying to learn setups the right way, one change at a time while taking good notes on the effects & laptimes...and the help narrowing down what changes to make is a greatly appreshaited!

I'm running (AE) sliver springs fronts, green rears and like the feel. I did have blues when I first put this 21.5 car together recently and I didn't like the feel of the blue springs. Car seemed to be inconsistent with front grip...but also made many changes since. I got extra shocks I'll build up w/ different pistions and oil wt...I really want to understand the differences and when you need to change pistions vs changing oil wt.

..track closed this week...everybody gone to carpet nats.

NUCRPTRACER

iTrader: (7)

Yeah start with raising the front and see what you think....If the grip is high enough you could raise all around it will make the steering more responsive...I think your spring selection is probably just right....Let us know how everything turns out...

wiscnitro

iTrader: (22)

What would be some cures for traction Roll? I have stiff springs in the front. ride hight 5.0 front shocks "Laid down" on the tops. Tire goop on inside half of front tires. verry little to no droop. removed front sway bar. 1* Deg camber. still fliping on high speed turns. Steering rate down to 66% and still traction roll. Im running a Xray T1R. anyone have a set up? Thanks

speedsterblade

I changed from 0 shims under the hinge pins (both front & rear ends of the car) to 1 (1mm) shims all the way around. I also rebuilt my shocks w/ the vsc2 bladders and changed from losi 30wt (= to approx. AE 27.5 wt is what I'm told, if AE made it) to AE 30wt keeping the same pistions (2# in front, 1# in rears). so effectively went thicker oil.

Dirla changed the track for our end of the season finialy yesterday..so I couldn't compare any laptimes and hard to get a full comparision of they changes but some of the turns were the same...one I had the roll problem before. The car was definitely not dragin the chassis like it was before! and was still stickn to the rug well. The new layout started picking up traction and me & others started traction rolling in the 3rd heat (not due to the chassis dig this time!). I then glues the sidewalls of the tires and that hepled keep it on 4 wheels and got me a podium finish in the A main. no body could catch melvin! And would like to thank you guys for the help/setup direction and my finish.

TfnG

iTrader: (27)

lots of great tc3/4 info. Anyone running a tc5 ? I just picked up a tc5r set up for touring car. There is an indoor carpet track opening near me and this will be my first on road car. I think VTA looks really cool and maybe more beginner friendly. Any help?

robk

iTrader: (22)

1.Glue sidewalls of tires

2. softer front springs ( can will roll into suspension instead of acting like a door hinge)

3. Shorten/raise front camber link

4. higher roll centers.

TfnG

iTrader: (27)

thanks robk for the PM with some TC5 VTA setup help