Aurra Sing

Yes, making the front upper link lower than the rear will give you much more agressive turn-in and steering, but it may be harder to drive. I suggest next time you try adding a 2 or 3mm spacer to the rear upper link. Are you still running the C1/C2 switched?

Aurra Sing

I refer "Upper links were - F:1mm R: 5mm" as the spacing that the upper camber links on the bulkhead side of the car. The kit setup was 2mm on all four corners.

What was the problem again? You have too much on-power steering?

imataquito

i am not sure... i guess it the switched one as i go get more aggerasive and more stearing everywhere with this one compared to the one if i switch it from this setup......



ok...... will try putting spacers on the rear....


ahh i forgot abt the formula....... forgot to give u the varibles...
sorry.....


X= the lenght in relation from the centre of chasis......
Y= lenght from the ground level........

A- the pivot point for the camber link on c hub
B- """"""""""""""""""""""" camber link on the bulkhead or suspension mount

C- pivot point of the c hub on the a arm
D- """""""""""""""""" A arm on the chasis


so Xa is the distance of the A varible from the centre of chasis
and Ya is distance from ground for A varible...

reflekt

actually, the shims i used are perfect size. they are each 1mm. and the diameter of each spacer is equal if not smaller than the diameter of the 2mm spacers provided with the kit. also, at my track, there are many trf414/m/m2 racers and if u think my spacers are too thick, think again. i've seen huge one piece spacers underneath the blocks that others use. also, i've reduced my amount of spacers to..

FF:0.7
FR:2
RF:3
RR:2

i'm gonna try the car today at the track and see how it runs. thanx for all the help. peaches

rccarracer

Anyone here got a 414X with original box and manual they are willing to sell?
All I can say is that I will pay a high price to take it off your hands...
PM to find out my offer....

icon

hehe, i tried that. no one that i know of has one. i ended up settling for the original 414. they are very close in design.

rccarracer

Already have a 414, just want to complete my collection...

icon

LoL, i've looked everywhere . some people have them but are keeping them. my friend had one and i actually got to hold it, LoL. its a very nice car and yes it was that cool. wish i bought it from him back then .

Vic

Aurra,

Now I understand these spacers, I still have a question---What effects does it have on the car?
What was the problem again? You have too much on-power steering?[/COLOR]
The answer to your question is Yes but since I changed camber it is a hell of a lot better.
What do you think would front toe-in solve my problem?My set-up is:
Front:
Sway bar--no
Damper:--White spring-700oil
Toe out :-0.5
Camber: -1.5
Spacers for front arm: Front:3mm Rear:2mm
Damper position:very left hole
No spacers for front axles ortorque rod

Rear:
Sway bar--no
Damper:--Red spring-300oil
Toe in :+1.5
Camber: -0.5
Spacers for rear arm: Front:3mm Rear:2mm
Damper position:Middle hole
No spacers for rear axles

Thanx

imataquito

reflekt.....
hm... i am just trying to tell u what i have come across....
better to be safe then sorry rite ....

heres what happened on my case

i placed the 3mm shims which comes on the car its self...

installed the rear Arm mount with 3mm front and 2 mm rear WITH everything on the car off.. except the arm mounts mounts
when i placed the rear bulkhead in and tighten it into place the bulkhead WILL not get into place ..... and if it does the plate will bend in a VERY odd angle ! making it tweaked and not flat if its placed on a flat surface......

i measured the shims ... with a caliper well.... they were EXACTLY the same size as the arm mounting blocks !!!

so i shaved some material off and thet solved the problem ...

well the shims i used is also the same one used on most locations like on the camber link mounts on the bulkhad and on suspension mounts ...

rccarracer

The easiest way to go about the spacers, is Tamiya'snew 5.5mm spacer set.
This is what they have been designed for...
Or use spacers that have a 5.5mm diameter....

over gear

iTrader: (18)

How can i remove those bearings in the bulkhead? I saw a past post that someone used a wood dowel for the job?

The bearings are so tight that I don't think a piece of wood can get the bearings out. Any other suggestings?

FYI, it's a 414m2.

rccarracer

I've never had to remove the bearings in the bulkhead, but have heard there is a light coating of glue to hold them in...
I have read the post about the wood dowel and that seems the best, but other people have said they have heated the bearings to loosen the glue....
Personally I'm not totally sure which to try.

itchynads

The light coating of glue holds the bearings nice and tight. If you tap them out make sure you put some glue in the bulkheads or the new bearings will slip out easily.

DEACON

Hi guys. I've been out of on-road electric r/c for a little while, but I'm looking to get back in. I've decided on everything except a car so I'm soliciting your help. I realize that this is a forum for Tamiya enthusiast so I expect some bias. But that's ok, because I'm going to post the same question to the Xray forum, since my only other consideration (right now) is the Evo2.

Anyway, I'm looking for a car to race primarily in the stock class, with rubber tires on an asphalt parking lot road course. I want a complete car! I don't want to have to purchace swaybars, one way diffs etc. down the road (or at least keep upgrades to a minimum).

I have owned Tamiya cars in the past, so I'm familiar with Tamiya quality, and excellent building instructions. However, I've never owned one of the new generation of Tamiya cars (non tub chassis, carbon fiber with alumimun). This car 414M, II is a big departure from the Tamiya cars I remember.

Anyway, will you share with me the positive and negative aspects of the 414? How durable is this chassis? I remember Tamiya replacement parts being relatively expensive.

Other comments and suggestions?

Thanks.