KO Propo VFS-2000 ESC
08-28-2003, 05:43 PM
#16
Cool! See you then.
Also, does KO offer a different power up condensor? I've seen a couple of pics of cars from Japan that are running a VFS-2000 with a carbon fibre colored condensor. You can see it in this page in the last picture, http://www.tech-racing.co.jp/u_slits10.htm . Is this just the stock one or is it a bigger one for modified motors?
Also, does KO offer a different power up condensor? I've seen a couple of pics of cars from Japan that are running a VFS-2000 with a carbon fibre colored condensor. You can see it in this page in the last picture, http://www.tech-racing.co.jp/u_slits10.htm . Is this just the stock one or is it a bigger one for modified motors?
08-28-2003, 05:59 PM
#17
Tech Master
We do have a super power up condenser coming soon. The carbon fiber look I'm sure is just a sticker. I have not seen the actual piece yet, but I do have the part number with no price. I imagine that it will arrive with in the next month. This will replace the need for two of the power up condensers. You are up on your facts. Man, I thought that I had something that no one knew about. LOL 
08-28-2003, 07:02 PM
#20
Tech Master
The super shotki diode comes with the VFS. The part number is 45513. You can find it on our website if you go to the shopatron link. It is under ESC/accessories
08-28-2003, 11:43 PM
#22
Tech Master
Kenneth Tan
Do you have the PC Interface? This would be the easiest way to send you some set up programs. I have gone over some settings with Atushi Hara and he has given me some. Email me your address and I will send those over to you.
Do you have the PC Interface? This would be the easiest way to send you some set up programs. I have gone over some settings with Atushi Hara and he has given me some. Email me your address and I will send those over to you.
09-01-2003, 04:02 AM
#23
Is there no difference at all, between the Atsushi, TRF2002 and the Ko VFS2000 esc's.
Isn't it more easy to put the setups for this speedo's up on the web.
Or here as an atachement?
Ithink lots of racers would like that.
Isn't it more easy to put the setups for this speedo's up on the web.
Or here as an atachement?
Ithink lots of racers would like that.
09-02-2003, 09:50 AM
#24
Re: VFS-2000
Originally posted by KO PROPO Staff
Questions about the VFS I will do my best to answer. Understand that this ESC allows you to take your motor and ESC to its limits. Taking it to these limits will allow you to take it too far. The following is a good guide line to follow for stock and modified motors.
Using the VFS, you must use the super shotki diode that came with it. Almost every VFS that has blow was due to not using the super shotki diode.
What is the super shotki diode? This is basically a smaller version of the shotki diode but the power of TWO. Generally what damages the ESC is not the acceleration, but the braking. When you are braking, you create a short across the motor. This short will travel back to the ESC if the super shotki is not connected and will damage the ESC. For mod racing, I would recommend TWO super shotki diodes or three. If you do not have two super shotki diodes, you would need the equivalent of four shotki diodes.
The power up condensor that comes with your VFS prevents voltage drops due to quick acceleration. One is recommended for stock, TWo is recommended for modified motors.
Settings: Higher the number (frequency), more run time, efficiency, less punch. Lower the number (frequency), less run time, less efficiency, more punch and more wear on your motor. When setting your VFS look for these things; com wear, brush wear and run time. Discoloration in the com and brushes is a result of too low a setting in the drive frequyency, worng timing, or wrong brush set up.
Stock motors:
Generally, I like to start at about 14 on the THRT setting. This gives a good punch for stock motors. If you feel that you need more punch, move the frequency setting down. You can set where you would like to have this punch with the VFS. One of the neat things about this ESC. If you feel that you need this punch in the mid-range of the throttle, lower it at throttle postion 15 or 16. This will very with drivers. Try to get a feeling where you have your trigger on your transmitter while you drive. This will give you a good reference where to change the VFS throttle postion. When you are changing the frequency, try not to jump frequency numbers too much, meaning going from 10 to 13. This will give the feeling of a choppy on/off switch feel. The idea of this ESC was to be smooth and controllable. Go up/down gradually, 10-11-12-13, etc.
Modified motors:
The rule for modified motors is not to go below 2000Hz or a FREQ setting of 17. Doing so will give you more power, but you run the risk of overheating and damaging the ESC. Leaving the frequency at the stock setting of 17 will yeild more power but less runtime. At the ROAR electric nationals, we had a setting that started at 17 and ended at about 30-32 for sedans. This gives you plenty of power and gives you plenty of runtime. For 1/12 scale we kept the setting at 28 all the way across the throttle. In mod, paying attention to the brushes is the key. Discoloration will occur quickly if the frequency is set too low. Lower turn motors than 10T will also yeild more heat and quicker brush wear with a lower frequency. For motors below 10T, I would raise the lowest frequency to about 3000Hz or a throttle setting of 22.
If you need any other questions answered let me know. If you have a setting that works well for you, share it. Understand that settings will change with track conditions and layout. This is almost like working with another gear ratio to fine tune your car. Good luck.
Questions about the VFS I will do my best to answer. Understand that this ESC allows you to take your motor and ESC to its limits. Taking it to these limits will allow you to take it too far. The following is a good guide line to follow for stock and modified motors.
Using the VFS, you must use the super shotki diode that came with it. Almost every VFS that has blow was due to not using the super shotki diode.
What is the super shotki diode? This is basically a smaller version of the shotki diode but the power of TWO. Generally what damages the ESC is not the acceleration, but the braking. When you are braking, you create a short across the motor. This short will travel back to the ESC if the super shotki is not connected and will damage the ESC. For mod racing, I would recommend TWO super shotki diodes or three. If you do not have two super shotki diodes, you would need the equivalent of four shotki diodes.
The power up condensor that comes with your VFS prevents voltage drops due to quick acceleration. One is recommended for stock, TWo is recommended for modified motors.
Settings: Higher the number (frequency), more run time, efficiency, less punch. Lower the number (frequency), less run time, less efficiency, more punch and more wear on your motor. When setting your VFS look for these things; com wear, brush wear and run time. Discoloration in the com and brushes is a result of too low a setting in the drive frequyency, worng timing, or wrong brush set up.
Stock motors:
Generally, I like to start at about 14 on the THRT setting. This gives a good punch for stock motors. If you feel that you need more punch, move the frequency setting down. You can set where you would like to have this punch with the VFS. One of the neat things about this ESC. If you feel that you need this punch in the mid-range of the throttle, lower it at throttle postion 15 or 16. This will very with drivers. Try to get a feeling where you have your trigger on your transmitter while you drive. This will give you a good reference where to change the VFS throttle postion. When you are changing the frequency, try not to jump frequency numbers too much, meaning going from 10 to 13. This will give the feeling of a choppy on/off switch feel. The idea of this ESC was to be smooth and controllable. Go up/down gradually, 10-11-12-13, etc.
Modified motors:
The rule for modified motors is not to go below 2000Hz or a FREQ setting of 17. Doing so will give you more power, but you run the risk of overheating and damaging the ESC. Leaving the frequency at the stock setting of 17 will yeild more power but less runtime. At the ROAR electric nationals, we had a setting that started at 17 and ended at about 30-32 for sedans. This gives you plenty of power and gives you plenty of runtime. For 1/12 scale we kept the setting at 28 all the way across the throttle. In mod, paying attention to the brushes is the key. Discoloration will occur quickly if the frequency is set too low. Lower turn motors than 10T will also yeild more heat and quicker brush wear with a lower frequency. For motors below 10T, I would raise the lowest frequency to about 3000Hz or a throttle setting of 22.
If you need any other questions answered let me know. If you have a setting that works well for you, share it. Understand that settings will change with track conditions and layout. This is almost like working with another gear ratio to fine tune your car. Good luck.
how about settings for 1/12 running on 6 cells and on stock motor.?
can ko propo staff advice?
thanks!
09-02-2003, 10:28 AM
#25
Tech Master
At the moment, I do not have settings for 1/12 scale 6 cells. I will create a webpage for the VFS settings for everyone to look at for setting that have worked. It should be up by tomorrow.
09-02-2003, 10:31 AM
#26
Tech Master
PizzaDude,
There is no difference between the ESC other than color and package. The TRF version does have a different program loaded into it. The Hara and KO version are identical programs.
There is no difference between the ESC other than color and package. The TRF version does have a different program loaded into it. The Hara and KO version are identical programs.
09-02-2003, 10:54 AM
#27
Thanks,
Are allsetting possible to make with the handheld programming unit?
Or is it beter to have the PC interface?!
Its ther esc only available with the handheld, or also as a combo with the PC interface?
Pizza
Are allsetting possible to make with the handheld programming unit?
Or is it beter to have the PC interface?!
Its ther esc only available with the handheld, or also as a combo with the PC interface?
Pizza
09-02-2003, 01:23 PM
#28
Tech Master
Originally posted by PizzaDude
Thanks,
Are allsetting possible to make with the handheld programming unit?
Or is it beter to have the PC interface?!
Its ther esc only available with the handheld, or also as a combo with the PC interface?
Pizza
Thanks,
Are allsetting possible to make with the handheld programming unit?
Or is it beter to have the PC interface?!
Its ther esc only available with the handheld, or also as a combo with the PC interface?
Pizza
All settings are possible with the handheld programmer. The PC interface makes it easier to visualize and see what is happening with the setup. The ESC is available as a set only with the handheld adapter. The PC interface is sold seperately.
09-04-2003, 10:23 AM
#29
Tech Rookie
Question?
Hello.I have some question.Does the VFS- 2000 has auto brake program?
09-04-2003, 10:34 AM
#30
Tech Master
Re: Question?
Originally posted by bambaa
Hello.I have some question.Does the VFS- 2000 has auto brake program?
Hello.I have some question.Does the VFS- 2000 has auto brake program?
The VFS has only one brake setting programed into it. This is set when you first calibrate the VFS to your transmitter. Finer adjustment on the brakes is done directly in your transmitter.