rcpilot

Hey guys, I just built a FT Tc3. Are there any tips or speed secrets you can give me for this car? I will be carpet racing with foams.

Thanks,
Martin.

StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

Yes run very stiff and take the diff outdrive spacers off

Front
White springs
80 wt oil
stock#2 pistons
Plaid tires from TRC

Rear
Purple Springs
70 wt oil
stock#2 pistons
Purple tires from TRC

Email me for full setup if u do need it
[email protected]

Modena AL

What does that do when you take out the outdrive spacer?

ZER01

It'll make the drivetrain more "free rolling" only when installing new diff balls and rings. Once you put some milage on those new diffs they will wear and it'll be best to put the shims back onto the outdrives to keep the mesh between the beveled diff and input gear right.

big al

iTrader: (10)

Is that carpet set up for a one way or diff.? I curretly have the rear shock tower up front, will it work? The reason I ask is because we will be starting a 19t foam touring class over here in stockton, ca. Thanks--Al


We don't need no stinking spacers!!

TKG 27

Hey guys,

Very interested to see some other setups for foams on carpet. We are also starting a 19T foam class up here in Ottawa Canada.

Another quick question. I have recently gone through a rash of stripped front knuckles. The ball end seems to strip regularily from vibration, hits or me over tightening. I am not a big aluminum hop-up guy but has anyone tried alum. front knuckles? The only ones I have been able to find online so far are from GPM. I am not a big GPM fan due to quality concerns I have had with their parts in the past. Any other suppliers? Do these parts bend easily?

Thanks in advance for the help!
Jeff

Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

Most people run a diff up front on carpet. A one-way is usually way to agressive. Some people also run the rear shock tower up front so you should be ok there. If you run the new mounting position on the arm you should run a little softer front oil and spring due to the fact that the shock has more leverage.

redsand

Do you mean lower numerical value EPA's ?
From what I've been told, most, if not all, the pros use less steering throws. (Mark Pavidis uses full 100% linear setting, while Saxton utilizes only the EPA depending on track conditions on their MP7.5s).
I figure that more steering throw would scrub speed at corners. On my TC3, I have +42 EPAs on both sides. The car was understeering at first,so I compensated that with the chassis setup (reducing the rear bite). Then I adjusted D/R from the driver stand after a lap or two. I leave anything else on my radio fully linear.

I believe chassis setup would be nothing if the radio is somehow mistakenly setup. Even, if two cars with identical setups, yet with different radio settings would sure react differently on the track. Radio setup is obviously the next important thing after chassis tuning.

That's why I eagerly am looking for as much info on radio setup as possible, since for most racers, it is the most neglected area on setting up and driving a car on the track. (in my early days of sedan racing, I was once told by an oldtimer to use higher numerical value + steering EXP if I approached a track that had a lot of chicanes - that way the car would be easier to negotiate the turns. Nowadays, I wouldn't take that advise anymore. If I want my car to be aggresive on the track, I tune the chassis NOT the radio).
I think you should provide some of that info on your site, Tony.

TRF414M

For the front knuckle, I think Square also made parts for it.

hobbipro

iTrader: (23)

So if the "Pro's" do not want more steering throw, why in the November issue of r/c car action does it have a write up of Barry Bakers TC3 (with a pic) , show his car with XXX-S front steering knuckles to get more throw? It clearly states that is what it is for. I have picked up the knuckle set for myself for $8, and its a direct fit! you dont use the upright in the package, just the knuckle. It does give it unreal throw! the knuckle itself looks tougher than the TC3 piece it replaces. I'd suggest this part to anyone who keeps stripping this part out.
Yes, I do think too much throw in certain places can scub speed, but if you run a tight track like I do, your not going fast anyway through the corners to scrub.
EPA, and dual rates are there for fine tuning your driving style, use them if you need to! Most racers do.

TigeRyan

iTrader: (7)

Hey All,

Got a chance to buy a new toy this past Sunday...

Dave Irrgang (Irrgang Racing Services) is a local driver here in South Jersey stopped by our big race the PimpFest and had some new TC3 toys...

I purchased a TC3 Solid Axle - pretty blue machined aluminum...very nice piece of hardware as is all of Dave's stuff

He is also coming out with new Dogbones with already installed pin cushions, they have a different geometry then all other bones and are really slick...

I will get you pics of the TC3 Solid Axle soon, I am hopefully picking up my set of dogbones next Sunday...too bad I didn't win the raffle, he gave away a set...

BTW: If you are interested in pics from our race checkout:

PimpFest 2002

I had my best ever run at a big event, Qualified 7th in the B-Main, Lead the first half of the B-Main until I CHOKED ended up finishing 4th with my TC3

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

EPA and throw does definitely depend on track conditions, but I will tell you that it ALL personal preference. I set my EPA's as high as I can. That doesn't mean I need to turn the wheel that far to make the car turn, it basically means that I COULD turn the wheel that far if I needed to. I do set up the car to turn at, well, let's say, 50% throw. If, for some reason I need more steering (avoiding a collision, trying to swoop on someone into a turn, etc), it's there.

I like the idea, Redsand, about that info on my site. Very good idea. I'll start working on that.

The Losi front hubs really help our cars at SoCal Raceway. We needed a little more steering from the car (or throw) there because of the high bite. This setup REALLY helps out alot....

psycho

Help me understand this. I, too, set my cars up for maximum steering travel and back it off with dual rate, and I race on high bite tracks. I have been trying different amounts of dual rate looking to improve my laptimes and I find that when I reduce the dual rate and stay out of trouble, my laptimes are much more consistant and faster due to less scrubbing of speed from excessive steering input. (yeah, I know, duh!) I thought about why you could possibly be looking for more steering throw on a high bite track and can't see why, other than if you get dumped into the boards and need to do a sharp 180 to get back on track. Why would you want more steering throw. Obviously, if you and Barry are doing this, there is a damn good reason! Can you explain this in more detail?

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Our cars don't have a very sharp turning radius....well, they do, but when you race against Kinwald every week (and his car has SICK steering), you are always looking for something to help improve your car. This REALLY helps out when you run the diff.

Typically we use THAT much steering (where the new knuckles would benefit) in hairpin or really tight turns. Even running one-ways we just couldn't get the same steering as Brian's car (which, I know, is BRIAN'S car!!!!). These front knuckles helped give more throw....this translated in more steering in tight, sharp turns where you could use more throw.

On normal sweepers and 90deg. turns you probably wouldn't benefit from it that much....you shouldn't be turning the wheel that much anyway....

StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

Yes my setup was with a diff and foams
I have a 19turn setup if ne one would liek it