nitrohead5300

............I am not eating up the spur diff gears anymore since I changed to a steel spur diff gear.

NitroVal

iTrader: (2)

Who makes these?

nitrohead5300

.........OFna puts them in their LD-3 and CD-3 onroad cars.

ntc3 onroad

Anybody here ever ran the BMI chassis for the NTC3?? They are very very good, all machined out of alum. no upper deck needed all servo brackets cut into chassis,batt mount and all included. Theres 2 version so beware if anyone decide to go this way, theres a Version 1 and Version2.I see them on ebay some. Theres nothing wrong with either version but I sorta helped with the R&D on the chassis and the V2 is lighter when car is complete than the AE NTC3. The best thing about it is less weight no tweak or chassis flex or bend. When we raced the car we bent so many stock AE chassis's it was unreal. If anyone interested I have a v1 BMI chassis that got sorta loose in the mill and has 1 imperfect cut in it, it does'nt hurt performance or anything and I would have to show you the place or you would not even know , I'd let it go for about $50 + shipping. I'm also thinking serious about selling my car. It has'nt been raced in 4 years but it is only for the serious racer!!! Theres very little stock on the car, which it will take to race at a very competetive level, we club raced on perm track and raced some in the Midwest series. only thing stock on my car are diff parts shocktowers upper and lower control arms and drive shaft. Theres also enough gears and clutch parts and so on to keep the car running a long time, could prob. build 4 cars out of spare parts.. There way to many parts to add here would take me a few days to get total list. I have stock RB 5 port turbo engines dennis richey mugen mt's palmaris racing engines, palmaris mugen mt work and some trinity cirrious engines,e all roar leagal 12 engines, when we raced you could not use anything other than a 12 engine, you guys placing all this big engines are nuts to me, no offence!! the car will break and theres no way to make it handle in very competitve issues and stay together, theres also a couple of Murnan modyfied mugens. The car is equipt with futaba digital servos and the futaba 3pj radio with a spektrum reciever, which has I can't remember now its either 40 or 60 channels built in to it, just turn car and radio on and it sets itself to a free channel, no chips!! I'll make very good deal on total package!! Serious inquires only! [email protected]

ntc3 onroad

I forgot to add guys it may be a bitch I know but A few of us started this thread man and theres tons and tons of input and info here, Even Barry Baker adds some input here in the start. I read some refuse to go through the pages here but if you wanna get serious with the NTC3 READ HERE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To all others I guess good luck!! Why spend all the big money if you are serious and not read, a normal once and awhile player??????? We who started this thread played very serious!!!!!!!! I traveled on the average most weekends 200 miles to playt and so what fun would it be to drive that and only break?? BB

NitroVal

iTrader: (2)

DO you happen to have a part number? Im having a helluva time trying to find them..

nitrohead5300

.Yeah ntc3 onroad, I am crazy alright like a fox!! With very little modification the big block went in and the chassis has held up. We do run wider than stock tires and you would be surprised at how well it handles. If you put a extreme modified OS TZ .18 in it it handles just about as well as a .12 because both these engines weight about the same, very little differnce in weight. I think you are nuts for not putting a big block in your TC-3 at least a TZ.18 just to try it out.

nitrohead5300

Just call Nitrohouse 1800-928-0304. Tell them you want the front and back diff complete unit with the cases and the short shafts the steel pinion gears go on too. Depending on your mechanical abilities you could do what I did which was to used the Ofna steel spur gear on the associated spool instead of the associated plastic gear took a couple attemps to get it on straight, I attached it with screws after I made sure it was on their straight. Then I modified the associated short shaft so the Ofna pinion gear would fit took a couple attemps before I got this one to work too. A little bit of work but worth the effort , hind sight, quicker just to put the whole Ofna unit on but my setup is lighter because it is a spool.

nitrohead5300

diff unit installed.

NitroVal

iTrader: (2)

Is this the same one?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMVX9&P=SM

nitrohead5300

No , NitroVal that is a 1/8 scale offroad diff and it is a torsen style diff too. Too big to fit. Call Nitrohouse.

ntc3 onroad

man you youngssters have alot to learn, a stock NTC3 yes feels free or what you call frictionless compared to a belt car!! You should'nt have to have a engineering degree to understand what a free feeling is to what actually friction is, Like stated anytime theres 2 parts rubbing together theres what I or most of people know as friction! friction causes heat, heat destroys all! the LD3 diffs should be the cure, maybe. it was cheaper and easier for me to pop the top off the diff case and check, maybe for melted gears. we usually never checked gears after heat races, because after first or second heat we had qualified for A main, and all other heats were really just r&d, or trying to get car fastest. I'll never understand why put 18 21 or wtf 28!! in a ntc3? which don't forget is 10 th scale! these 18 21 and 28 are designed for 8th scale racing, not 10th! so with what you call HP in these bigger engines be it 18,21,28 should be used in 8th scale racing. Anybody who know weight tranfers/hp/torque/size of car and size of parts can do the math and will know they won't work, sure you maybe kick a stock 12 or 15 ass in playing or small club track racing if they would even allow that, but put a 28 against a very good tuned and modied 12 or 15 in a 200 ft' plus straight away at wide open throttle into a nice turn and if you make it turn or slide into the curve the 12 or 15 will kick its ass, its simple math if you know how!: spidey.. "Nitrohead"... Why not step up and race with the real guys!! 8th scale put that NTC# with that motor and tires against a real good 8th scale care, you'd go home whiney in your beer if you can drink. Your trying to make 1/8th scale car out of 10th scale car in playing world yea maybe work but in real race with 8th's no way!! Been there done that, I used 1'8th scale tires and wheels 4 years ago man, been there done that, your just playing not really racing! Put that car into a 200ft'= straight into a tight curve that thing pushes like a pig!!!!! been there done that!::spi dey:BB

nitrohead5300

..............Stop trying to change the subject , WEAK DIFFS in Nitro TC-3's . The .12 size size motors of today are getting more and more powerful compared to the motors you ran when you raced. These new .12 motors have been knowed to rip the diffs out of Nitro TC-3's . Alot of my friends who ran TC-3 , stopped racing them because they were tired of rebuilding diffs between heats . My point is since I have put a big block in my Nitro TC-3 and the Ofna diffs has stood up to the increase in torque and horsepower that a modified .21-28 can put out it can more than handle the horsepower and torque that a .12 puts out even if it is modified. Just sharing my results you can choose to use it or not it makes no difference to me . NTC3 Onroad in my club we are all a bunch of outlaws none of use have .12's in our cars . I know center of gravity and weight is important but for your information NTC3 Onroad my car does not push thru the turns you are speculating that it does !! The track we have laid out has fast wide sweeping turns and long straightaways it is not a technical track but a high speed road course. When I began this project, Big Block in a TC-3, I was told that my TC-3 would flip over evertime I go into a fast turn, that it would push , if I nailed it, it would spin out, it would have torque steer etc, etc, I have not encountered any of these problems, these speculations are exagerations of what may happen if you don't use common sense to come up with solutions as you going along with your project. I doubt if you ever put 1/8 scale tires on a 1/10 scale car based on what you have said...........you have any pictures of this car??

NitroVal

iTrader: (2)

Werd. I run an OS 18CVR in mine, and it rated at 1.35bhp. Im racing up against guys running Nova's and Picco's in the .12 size and they have almost another .5hp on me. Granted I can take them out of the corners, but I usually dont stand a chance on a long track

Kyo83

iTrader: (3)

That's probably because your OS 18 has more torque but the .12's have more top end. You're only looking at 28,000 rpm's. Now compare it to say.....The Ofna picco red dot .12, which has 48,000 rpms. Make the track big enough and most .12 engines today will run past most 18 engines. This is not true of all engines, on both side, but generally speaking it is true.

Usually you'll find a .18 or .15 engine in RTR cars to try and make up for their disadvantages compared to kit cars. Can you say Yokomo!?!? "+60 mph out the box" My friend bought his first RC car based off that statement. That was fast back then (around 2000-2001) Still fast for today's RTR but not fast for today's engines