Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree9Likes

3racing F109

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-20-2010, 11:33 PM
  #856  
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
 
timmig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Trabuco Canyon-- in the Pines!!
Posts: 1,769
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Thanks--- a long way to ship springs--but I got em coming!!!
T
timmig is offline  
Old 04-21-2010, 09:51 AM
  #857  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
InZane's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sweden
Posts: 274
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by 4_cell_racer
Inzane (or anyone) can you post a copy of the instructions for the Out Tuned Ball Diff for F104 as mine has come with NO instructions

Cheers
Lee


Here's a scanned copy - I made a note about the "adjustment nut". Mount it almost flush with the threads and tighten the diff with the 4mm lock nut until it feels OK (as close as you can). Then use the adjustment ring for fine tuning at the track.
InZane is offline  
Old 04-21-2010, 09:57 AM
  #858  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Staffs...UK
Posts: 42
Default

Originally Posted by InZane

Here's a scanned copy - I made a note about the "adjustment nut". Mount it almost flush with the threads and tighten the diff with the 4mm lock nut until it feels OK (as close as you can). Then use the adjustment ring for fine tuning at the track.
Thanks InZane......much appricated

And thanks for the heads up on the adjustment nut
4_cell_racer is offline  
Old 04-21-2010, 05:31 PM
  #859  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 108
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I just bought a used one of these and was wondering if anyone has a set up sheet for it or know a web site where I can get one?
I found one for the f104 but it's not quite the same
Also, I have never run a pan car before and was wondering if there is any site that will explain how different oil and springs will affect the handling characteristics without a lot of trial and error.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
AlGio is offline  
Old 04-21-2010, 06:21 PM
  #860  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 10
Default

i have some modify.
use 2 26mm metal post instead of original upper deck post(plastic).
charge a battery like F104.
sIUcHuN is offline  
Old 04-21-2010, 06:30 PM
  #861  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 8,203
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by AlGio
I just bought a used one of these and was wondering if anyone has a set up sheet for it or know a web site where I can get one?
I found one for the f104 but it's not quite the same
Also, I have never run a pan car before and was wondering if there is any site that will explain how different oil and springs will affect the handling characteristics without a lot of trial and error.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=112setup
robk is offline  
Old 04-22-2010, 04:11 AM
  #862  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 108
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hey thanks Robk that is just the thing I was looking for.
Now for a set up sheet!
AlGio is offline  
Old 04-27-2010, 06:28 AM
  #863  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 13
Default

Originally Posted by robk
If he's running a 540J motor, the shafts are short to begin with. Moving the gear out will increase this problem. BL motor, regular brush motor = no problem
thanks, i finally decided to upgrade to BL motors, all good now.
ADHUI is offline  
Old 05-04-2010, 08:32 PM
  #864  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (24)
 
PDR TOO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 325
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default Rear Links

ROBK,

Are you guys using the standard turnbuckles or replacing them with a longer aftermarket set?

I am new to the F1 and have been reading this thread for insights. I noticed a suggestion to use the forward hole for mounting the rear links. I tried this on the weekend but one side keeps letting go.

I did pull them appart completely to ensure I had an even amount of insertion at both ends of the rods.

I hve run the F109 a few times and have had difficulty keeping the tail under control. I have picked up some stiffer side springs and will try them next run.

I also had the unusual circumstance of the centre rolling damper coming undone during a run. Silicone is NOT good for traction.
PDR TOO is offline  
Old 05-04-2010, 09:04 PM
  #865  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 8,203
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by PDR TOO
ROBK,

Are you guys using the standard turnbuckles or replacing them with a longer aftermarket set?

I am new to the F1 and have been reading this thread for insights. I noticed a suggestion to use the forward hole for mounting the rear links. I tried this on the weekend but one side keeps letting go.

I did pull them appart completely to ensure I had an even amount of insertion at both ends of the rods.

I hve run the F109 a few times and have had difficulty keeping the tail under control. I have picked up some stiffer side springs and will try them next run.

I also had the unusual circumstance of the centre rolling damper coming undone during a run. Silicone is NOT good for traction.
I happened to have a set of longer Associated turnbuckles on hand, so I used them. I wanted to put some titanium links on anyway.
robk is offline  
Old 05-04-2010, 09:29 PM
  #866  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 13
Default

Originally Posted by PDR TOO
ROBK,

Are you guys using the standard turnbuckles or replacing them with a longer aftermarket set?

I am new to the F1 and have been reading this thread for insights. I noticed a suggestion to use the forward hole for mounting the rear links. I tried this on the weekend but one side keeps letting go.

I did pull them appart completely to ensure I had an even amount of insertion at both ends of the rods.

I hve run the F109 a few times and have had difficulty keeping the tail under control. I have picked up some stiffer side springs and will try them next run.

I also had the unusual circumstance of the centre rolling damper coming undone during a run. Silicone is NOT good for traction.
I used to have the same problem. my rear could not keep a straight path out of the corner when i just setup the car. The changes i made that slowly made my car was.
1. Stiffer Side Springs on the Rear
2. Toe Out 1 Degree
3. Switch to 2 Hole Roling Damper and Main Damper, Change oil to 50wt
4. Change to Stiffer Front Springs
and so far its handing a lot better than the beginning
note, if you are running on asphalt track be sure to use rubber tires, you get a lot more grip.
Funny, i also found that my rolling damper just jumped out during a pratice session. might be because of a little bump on the apex.
ADHUI is offline  
Old 05-04-2010, 09:31 PM
  #867  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 13
Default

Originally Posted by robk
I happened to have a set of longer Associated turnbuckles on hand, so I used them. I wanted to put some titanium links on anyway.
I upgraded all my links to TI and I dont really see the difference, besides being lighter a couple of grams, what other advantage does it have?
ADHUI is offline  
Old 05-04-2010, 10:26 PM
  #868  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 8,203
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ADHUI
I upgraded all my links to TI and I dont really see the difference, besides being lighter a couple of grams, what other advantage does it have?
Less prone to bend
robk is offline  
Old 05-04-2010, 11:12 PM
  #869  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (24)
 
PDR TOO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 325
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default Rear Links

robk/ADHUI,

Thanks for the info guys. I will get some longer links and try again.

My centre damper stayed in place, it's just the darn thing actually came apart and spilled silicone damper fluid all over the place - what a mess!!

I had changed the three hole psiton to 1 hole and put some XRay 40w damper fluid in to try and slow the movement in the rear a little. Hopefully the springs I picked up today will assist.

Thanks again.
PDR TOO is offline  
Old 05-05-2010, 12:38 PM
  #870  
Tech Adept
 
3rd-dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Germany
Posts: 128
Default

Hi guys,

first of all i did not read the hole thread.
shame over me.
now i have some questions perhaps you can help.
im now an owner of this car.

i have read that the front end of the f-103 will fit. is that correct?
because i want to try out the upper arms of the f-103.
would you recommend that or is it better to stay with the original front end?

i found a gpm upper arm set for the f-103.
see the pic, will this fit?
also i want to install the Adjustable Front Castor Mount Version 2.
is this possible to fit this with the gpm upper arms or do this castor mount would only fit with the f-109 upper arms?

and how can i adjust the front ride hight?

thanks for answers.
Attached Thumbnails 3racing F109-fgt154_blu_1.jpg  
3rd-dan is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.