TLR SCTE 3.0 Thread
#226
Any parts interchangeable between 2.0 and 3.0
Last edited by RsDrake77; 09-09-2016 at 02:11 PM.
#227
Tech Apprentice
#228
Thanks I'm just being lazy lol
#231
Tech Rookie
Pics?
Any pics from those who have the kit so far? Mine is coming on Monday from Amain, but I figured I'd ask!
#232
I'm using the Protek titanium screw kit for 2.0 so far everything has been the same - except for the front diff housing to chassis screws were short by 1/8" so I'm just using the kit screws.
Lunsford 2.0 Ti Turnbuckles fit with no issues as well. 👌🏻
Front end complete
On to center diff now
Lunsford 2.0 Ti Turnbuckles fit with no issues as well. 👌🏻
Front end complete
On to center diff now
#233
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
SCTE 3.0 updates
I'm 4 shocks away from test run. Here are the things I have noticed so far.
- Front A Arms are thick, beefy in a good way
- Plastic nylon front caster blocks are plenty thick as well. Should never break
- Ball bearing ackerman is well made with 0 slop
- Front gearbox seems thicker and has more clearance near pinion for rod ends
- Rod ends directly off 8ight 2.0 buggy. Thinner height, less bind at top and bottom of suspension travel. On my 2.0 and it works
- Black Ring and pinon gear update is nice, good upgrade for 2.0
- The front ring and pinion needed 0.1 shim to get backlash right
- The rear ring and pinion needed 0.6!!! shims. Aluminum bearing holders might help here.
- Front sway bar is largest diameter that will fit. I don't think that's going to work for me and my tracks, but test it first.
- The front shock tower seems massive/thick in a good way
- The small plastic piece on tower for front bumper is too soft. Snugging bolts crushes it like butter. 2.0 part seems stiffer
- The rear hubs and front look strong, graphite impregnated? Bearings wont wallow out hubs
- Chassis stiffeners seem well thought out. MIP aluminum standing by
- Diff spider and crown gears look same, but might just be different material
- Diff washers don't look any better, so i installed the X-Ray washer upgrade. perfect fit, bulletproof and smooth
- Black o-rings are softer and seem to be less drag
No doubt there are big upgrades on this truck. Time will tell if they work better. I have a lot of experience with these trucks and this looks like a great rig. I'll be keeping my 2.0 a while until I know what is what. I do see all the upgrades worthy of installing on 2.0 as parts wear. Other than soft front plastic piece the front bumper bolts to and the large amount of shims needed for rear diff ring and pinion it looks like a great rig. Best one they have made yet!
Almost Forgot.... The lack of clamping hexes is beyond me. No way I can not update to clamping hex.
- Front A Arms are thick, beefy in a good way
- Plastic nylon front caster blocks are plenty thick as well. Should never break
- Ball bearing ackerman is well made with 0 slop
- Front gearbox seems thicker and has more clearance near pinion for rod ends
- Rod ends directly off 8ight 2.0 buggy. Thinner height, less bind at top and bottom of suspension travel. On my 2.0 and it works
- Black Ring and pinon gear update is nice, good upgrade for 2.0
- The front ring and pinion needed 0.1 shim to get backlash right
- The rear ring and pinion needed 0.6!!! shims. Aluminum bearing holders might help here.
- Front sway bar is largest diameter that will fit. I don't think that's going to work for me and my tracks, but test it first.
- The front shock tower seems massive/thick in a good way
- The small plastic piece on tower for front bumper is too soft. Snugging bolts crushes it like butter. 2.0 part seems stiffer
- The rear hubs and front look strong, graphite impregnated? Bearings wont wallow out hubs
- Chassis stiffeners seem well thought out. MIP aluminum standing by
- Diff spider and crown gears look same, but might just be different material
- Diff washers don't look any better, so i installed the X-Ray washer upgrade. perfect fit, bulletproof and smooth
- Black o-rings are softer and seem to be less drag
No doubt there are big upgrades on this truck. Time will tell if they work better. I have a lot of experience with these trucks and this looks like a great rig. I'll be keeping my 2.0 a while until I know what is what. I do see all the upgrades worthy of installing on 2.0 as parts wear. Other than soft front plastic piece the front bumper bolts to and the large amount of shims needed for rear diff ring and pinion it looks like a great rig. Best one they have made yet!
Almost Forgot.... The lack of clamping hexes is beyond me. No way I can not update to clamping hex.
Last edited by Thunder Trail; 09-10-2016 at 01:34 PM.
#234
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
SCTE 3.0 shock standoff
Houston, we have a problem. Going to miss first race with new 3.0 due to shock standoff being defective.
I was ready to install shocks. I moved chassis to a stand and this fell off. Looks like weak pot metal inside the shaft. Not sure what it is made out of. Bummer after so much build time to make today's race and to build it right. Anyone else having problems? Suggest you take a close look at yours. There must be others.
I was ready to install shocks. I moved chassis to a stand and this fell off. Looks like weak pot metal inside the shaft. Not sure what it is made out of. Bummer after so much build time to make today's race and to build it right. Anyone else having problems? Suggest you take a close look at yours. There must be others.
#237
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
No, I don't have the metric 22 shocks on my 2.0 that I kept. I have built no less than 6 SCTE 2.0 rigs this year. Kept my older 2.0 and let the others go to people wanting to get involved in class or race at local track.
This was the last part I expected to have a problem with and it is just about the last part you install before shocks. Good thing too, if I had installed it and had it fall off early in the build I would have given up on it and not finished it right away. This standoff and some final camber and toe adjustments are all I had left to do before racing it today.
The super strong steel 2.0 standoffs are standard size thread and shaft. The 3.0 light weight 22 shocks require metric post. I could drill out the plastic shock pivot bushing on top to fit the standard 2.0 standoffs, but then they would be sloppy on the 3.0 metric post when I get replacement parts. The 3.0 standoffs feel much lighter, but I didn't weigh one yet. Lost interest. This one doesn't look solid inside. Not clean solid metal through and through. I don't know if its just this one or if the other three are the same way. I cant tell what its made of. Looks like what we called pot metal when I was learning to weld years ago. Porous and weak in this one spot for sure. I know they are lighter in wt and that was the goal here. However, using 2.0 steel standoffs and drilling out the top shock pivot bushing may be the permanent fix. More weight, but will not be the weak link.
I'm sure the TLR guys will have a fix and take care of me. Hopefully I'm the only person who has this issue. Do not let this keep you from experiencing this truck. I can't find much negative during the build. The improved parts look great. Something else could crop up,but looks like a great platform update. I look forward to racing it soon.
This was the last part I expected to have a problem with and it is just about the last part you install before shocks. Good thing too, if I had installed it and had it fall off early in the build I would have given up on it and not finished it right away. This standoff and some final camber and toe adjustments are all I had left to do before racing it today.
The super strong steel 2.0 standoffs are standard size thread and shaft. The 3.0 light weight 22 shocks require metric post. I could drill out the plastic shock pivot bushing on top to fit the standard 2.0 standoffs, but then they would be sloppy on the 3.0 metric post when I get replacement parts. The 3.0 standoffs feel much lighter, but I didn't weigh one yet. Lost interest. This one doesn't look solid inside. Not clean solid metal through and through. I don't know if its just this one or if the other three are the same way. I cant tell what its made of. Looks like what we called pot metal when I was learning to weld years ago. Porous and weak in this one spot for sure. I know they are lighter in wt and that was the goal here. However, using 2.0 steel standoffs and drilling out the top shock pivot bushing may be the permanent fix. More weight, but will not be the weak link.
I'm sure the TLR guys will have a fix and take care of me. Hopefully I'm the only person who has this issue. Do not let this keep you from experiencing this truck. I can't find much negative during the build. The improved parts look great. Something else could crop up,but looks like a great platform update. I look forward to racing it soon.
#239
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
I really think you just got a bad part. The area that broke was 5-40 just like the old mounts. Yes the other side is a little smaller which is for the 2.0 shock bushing and mount and does use 3mm nuts on that side. It was a part that was redesigned and part of the 22 shock conversion many have done to their 2.0's. I don't think this is weak link. I have been running the conversion for months now. Shock posts are not under a lot of stress in full body trucks as they are not stressed in crashes like a buggy with exposed towers. Hope the replacement parts are ok for you and you get get your truck moving. The improvements are great and the truck is solid.
#240
Tech Apprentice
Anyone having issues with lack of rebound in the rear shocks? I rebuilt them twice at the track today. Ride height is set at 26mm. 35wt oil red springs.