Trips

iTrader: (16)

That would depend on the gearing, the condition of the car's drivetrain, the condition of the motor, the condition of the batteries... there are so many variables which have an effect, the only way you'll get an accurate idea of the speed is to go out and actually measure it.

Trips

Racer Z

iTrader: (1)

I know that rotating the endbell the opposite rotation of the arm increases timing but what does each mark on the can mean. The question I guess is how much timing each hash mark represents?

Speedo

Wow, you must have had to search pretty hard to find this old thread

Each mark on the endbell is, I believe, 12 degrees.

Josh

pro3racer

no, my paradigm has 9 marks, 4left, 4 right, each mark must be 6 degrees, or like 9, because from last i heard a can goes up to 36 degrees. Oh, duh, 9 degrees.

Speedo

There are no marks for negative timing.

It may vary from motor to motor, I just remember that on my KR, the 12 degree line on the sticker is about where the second line on the endbell is, the first being at 0 degrees. I've never looked at it very closely though.

Speedo

Anybody have some tips for tuning a KR? I bought a 10x2 the other week, and it was trued with new brushes (766) yesterday when I was racing. I started with a 100/29 gearing, and went to a 100/30 when my tire size went down, I also tried anything from 100/25 to 100/30 the last time I raced. I have the motor set with 12 degrees of timing, and my 11x2 Ti, geared at 100/32 was just killing it.

Each motor had 3-4 runs on it when I threw them both on the dyno today. The Ti came up as having about the same numbers I would expect, however the KR had a curve that was all over the place, and wouldn't fully wind up. I did 3 pulls with it and all 3 were like this.

I believe the KR is set up with ppl/ppl springs, and like I said the 766 brushes with 12 degrees of timing. I was gearing 1-2 teeth lower with it. There wasn't a small difference either, the difference was huge. My Reedy 19 turn was doing pretty well, and the Ti only felt marginally faster than that.

Is there something about the KR that I don't know already that I should know?

Thanks,
Josh

edit - the Ti is almost 2 years old also, and a higher wind...The KR is 3 weeks old.

Speedo

New 766's after 3 runs

Mr. MR4

iTrader: (8)

Speedo,

go to http://www.rc10.com/racerhub/techhelp/UsingKRMotors.pdf

There is some very useful info regarding the KR.

Speedo

Thanks, I've read that before and it is why I only use 12 degrees of timing. I experimented with setting the timing to 15 degrees and it drew .7 more of an amp at 2.5 volts.

Anybody know if I was right when I said I thought one notch on the endbell was 12 degrees? Reason I'm saying this is that it doesn't match up very well with the 12 degree mark on the Fantom KR label - the 0 and 0 match perfectly. I'm not inclined to believe Fantom at the moment however, it seems they may have done some strange wind on the arm. I've sent them an email and am awaiting a reply.

Meanwhile, I put an old pair of good-condition 766's in the KR, broke it in at 5 degrees of timing, went to 12 degrees, and put it on the Robitronics. It told me it was too powerful

Based on my past two weekends running the KR, I'm gussing it will be acceptably fast for the first minute of the first run, and then slow down for the rest of the day. I think this may be a problem specific to the Fantom version I bought, as everyone else seems to love theirs.

I'm interested to try the Orion V2. I sent them an email and apparently distributers have had the motors for 3 weeks. Ultimate Hobbies is supposed to have them, but I can't find any motors on their website.

Josh

melnyk

Yeah the KR is a fast motor when you get the gearing however i could never find the sweet spot on mine and it went through brushes terribly they only lasted 3 or 4 runs tops.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Josh, pick up one of those timing guages from either Fantom or Trinity (Matt Francis line) and that should help with the timing. I think each notch is 12.5 degrees but not 100% sure. Good luck!

spdyrc

I have spent some time with my KR, and it is a finicky motor. I have maybe 3 or 4 good runs for every 8 times on the track. I have a 9x1 at a 27/96, and still burn brushes up. I have used real heavy springs, and am now going to try some medium springs and back of on the timing a bit. The dyno shows that it's real sensitive to timing adjustments, but the spring really affects the amp draw a lot.

JR V

iTrader: (1)

I know the Ti's are 12 degrees each notch. I usually run them at 15-18 degrees timing, and Ive also heard the Kr's are also on that same line, but closer to the 15 degree mark. I got a Orion Core that has been sitting forever and am finally trying it out, and I like it, but I dont think Ive found the sweet spot for this motor yet. I love the Ti's, and I hope the Kr's are a step up from them. I just got to pick one up.

Speedo

JR-V - Based on my experience with my Fantom built Kr, I would say not to waste your time with them. I'm probably going to end up buying another Ti, or possibly that Orion V2. Like I've said though, it could just be Fantom.

I just worked on the Kr some more. I tried various timings, 6, 12, and 15 degrees. I also serrated the brushes. The curve on the dyno is jumpy, and the 10x2 Ti is less powerful than the 11x2 Ti, on the dyno and on the track. The Ti is 2 years old, the comm is down below .270, and is chipping along the comm slots.

Before he banned me from his forum, Big Jim said Fantom may have wound the arm in some wierd way, and he thought the brush hoods were way out of alignment.

SlobbaTech

I have a KR also and experienced the same problems with it being finicky but when it's right it's super fast but then it will not be so hot the next run. I think it's just something with the can design and not the wind or wind pattern used b/c I haven't had that problem with any other motor or can from Fantom or other companies. I burned brushes up bad with enduro and sprint compound brushes. I put some quasars in and they were fast and lasted really good, ran 18* timing with a 10x2 and purple Trinity springs, then geared 1 tooth lower than the 2 magnet motors.