Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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#2356
No, there's 3 Ackerman positions. Front, center & rear. All have different affects on turning. The 4 washers on the inside and outside of the tie rods also can be fine tuned to adjust steering.
#2359
Try box stock set up and fine tune from there. The stock set up is very easy to drive on smaller track with small/med size jumps .
#2360
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Lowe's48 is right. We have small tracks in my area and almost everyone that runs tekno is running box stock and having 0 issues with it, nor are they getting the nose dive problems like many seem to have a problem with. I am starting to think a lot of that issue is more driver error than anything. Not to say it's non existent for all tracks or situations, just think it's a tab bit over hyped more than anything.
#2361
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Lowe's48 is right. We have small tracks in my area and almost everyone that runs tekno is running box stock and having 0 issues with it, nor are they getting the nose dive problems like many seem to have a problem with. I am starting to think a lot of that issue is more driver error than anything. Not to say it's non existent for all tracks or situations, just think it's a tab bit over hyped more than anything.
#2362
You just can not copy someone's set ups and expect miracles.
Another thing that's more important than any set ups in the world is take your time and build it correctly. Do not over tighten make sure all moving parts are free.... binding parts are the killer!!
#2363
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Your certainly entitled to your opinion on that as much as I am to mine, but regardless of what you or anyone says about it I haven't seen the issue at all within a whole slu of 410.3s. Not one that I personally run with.
When I bought the SCTE 2.0, I also heard people on here make similar claims to nose dives with that chassis as well. But I found the exact opposite with parachuting effects and nose high angles to be more common occurrence for me in box stock setup.
I do a lot of tweaking on my chassis's to by the way. But I do start off with stock set initially to see what I have to work with.
When I fist started running SCT for the first time, the hardest thing for me was learning to manage my throttle differently than I had previously done with other chassis types of the past. I did nose dive a lot at first, but in short time learned it was just my management error more than anything else. I have no reason to assume a whole lot different here considering all the factors I mentioned, and or have witnessed and felt.
Maybe I will find out different on some different tracks one day. But I sort of doubt it.
#2364
Hey guys. Had a chance to run my truck for the first time last night. Runs great and is much more forgiving than my sc10 4x4.
I run on a indoor clay track, medium to semi high grip. Medium track size. The track is OCRC in Huntington Beach.
I am trying to tune this truck in to my liking. Right now I am running the stock setup. The rear end feels a bit loose coming out of corners. Too much oversteer on power. I had moved the rear shock in completely on the tower and out on the a arm. This definitely made the rear end feel a little more dead and lessened the tendency for the truck to want to come around. I tried to lower the roll center and a slightly longer rear link but I didn't help, probably was a little worse so I went back.
Where should I go from here? I was thinking heavier oil all the way around (35 front, 30 rear). Or should I look at diff fluid? I figure I should start at the rear end and make adjustments there to try and lock it down the best I can. After I get it the best I can on the rear end, I think the approach will be to take away some steering from the front. Heavier sway bar up front, different shock position, etc. to try and balance the car better. I really love the amount of steering it has right now though. I love being able to turn under those losi's at a moments notice.
Am I on the right track? Any help is much appreciated!
I run on a indoor clay track, medium to semi high grip. Medium track size. The track is OCRC in Huntington Beach.
I am trying to tune this truck in to my liking. Right now I am running the stock setup. The rear end feels a bit loose coming out of corners. Too much oversteer on power. I had moved the rear shock in completely on the tower and out on the a arm. This definitely made the rear end feel a little more dead and lessened the tendency for the truck to want to come around. I tried to lower the roll center and a slightly longer rear link but I didn't help, probably was a little worse so I went back.
Where should I go from here? I was thinking heavier oil all the way around (35 front, 30 rear). Or should I look at diff fluid? I figure I should start at the rear end and make adjustments there to try and lock it down the best I can. After I get it the best I can on the rear end, I think the approach will be to take away some steering from the front. Heavier sway bar up front, different shock position, etc. to try and balance the car better. I really love the amount of steering it has right now though. I love being able to turn under those losi's at a moments notice.
Am I on the right track? Any help is much appreciated!
#2365
I added more rear toe. Dot down and out helped me a lot.
#2366
Tech Elite
iTrader: (33)
Hey guys. Had a chance to run my truck for the first time last night. Runs great and is much more forgiving than my sc10 4x4.
I run on a indoor clay track, medium to semi high grip. Medium track size. The track is OCRC in Huntington Beach.
I am trying to tune this truck in to my liking. Right now I am running the stock setup. The rear end feels a bit loose coming out of corners. Too much oversteer on power. I had moved the rear shock in completely on the tower and out on the a arm. This definitely made the rear end feel a little more dead and lessened the tendency for the truck to want to come around. I tried to lower the roll center and a slightly longer rear link but I didn't help, probably was a little worse so I went back.
Where should I go from here? I was thinking heavier oil all the way around (35 front, 30 rear). Or should I look at diff fluid? I figure I should start at the rear end and make adjustments there to try and lock it down the best I can. After I get it the best I can on the rear end, I think the approach will be to take away some steering from the front. Heavier sway bar up front, different shock position, etc. to try and balance the car better. I really love the amount of steering it has right now though. I love being able to turn under those losi's at a moments notice.
Am I on the right track? Any help is much appreciated!
I run on a indoor clay track, medium to semi high grip. Medium track size. The track is OCRC in Huntington Beach.
I am trying to tune this truck in to my liking. Right now I am running the stock setup. The rear end feels a bit loose coming out of corners. Too much oversteer on power. I had moved the rear shock in completely on the tower and out on the a arm. This definitely made the rear end feel a little more dead and lessened the tendency for the truck to want to come around. I tried to lower the roll center and a slightly longer rear link but I didn't help, probably was a little worse so I went back.
Where should I go from here? I was thinking heavier oil all the way around (35 front, 30 rear). Or should I look at diff fluid? I figure I should start at the rear end and make adjustments there to try and lock it down the best I can. After I get it the best I can on the rear end, I think the approach will be to take away some steering from the front. Heavier sway bar up front, different shock position, etc. to try and balance the car better. I really love the amount of steering it has right now though. I love being able to turn under those losi's at a moments notice.
Am I on the right track? Any help is much appreciated!
#2368
The design of the EB/NB line of vehicles has more steering throw than any other vehicle on the market. Probably by a good 5 or more degrees. At first we thought this was a huge advantage. Lately, through constant testing, we have found the cars are faster and waaaaay more consistent with less steering throw.
So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB (SCT410 uses 4 too) and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.
Here's what goes wrong with too much steering throw:
Rear end washes out when landing jumps
Rear end continues to come around exiting corners
Feels like you are struggling for traction at times
Bump handling is unpredictable
Initial steering is extremely twitchy
And other issues to be sure
Here's what's going on. The last 5+ degrees of steering throw happen very quickly and the servo has very very little leverage on the wheels at full throw. This causes the inside wheel to act erratically and get tossed left/right at the whims of the track surface. Without a positive stop there, the inside wheel is going crazy and causing inconsistencies with the handling. The CV's can accommodate this extreme working angle, but there is more chatter which creates further issues.
Even if you just limit your EPA, the inside wheel is still free to move too far when the conditions arise. So install the washers first, then reset your EPA to match.
There are literally dozens of other adjustments that will result in more steering if desired (shocks, springs, ride height, sway bars, diffs, camber links, toe, etc.). By first limiting the throw, you can focus on creating more 'setup steering'. Think of setup steering as being more consistent vs. mechanical steering (i.e. throw).
Additionally, you won't be fighting the car so you will be spending less time tuning something bad out and more time tuning good stuff in.
#2369
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
So if you're not using the built in steering stops, you're doing yourself a huge disservice. We are using 4 steering limiter washers on the EB/NB (SCT410 uses 4 too) and the results have been awesome. Yes, the turning radius is reduced, but lap times and consistency have proven this is a non-factor.