HugolikaBoss

hell i was playing w rc before i was 14. maybe the modern rc's are considered dangerous compared to the speed of the original manual speed controlled 540 brushed motors.. but they could go 50-60kph if you had the money

ANyone tried Tamiya springs?? they have cheap sets

what about you Enrique? - i saw u mentioned the Integy shocks set which went well. ANy chance the springs fit the D3 shocks?

eunique

iTrader: (3)

Yes..they fit well...I got Integy set that I use on my Zero S...which comes withe other red and gold springs. By feeling for stiffness, black ones felt same, gold felt stiffer and I believe the reds were too stiff. Gave gold some practice runs and initially under steered. I moved shock mounts I towards center and made a world of difference. Those are what I use in front now. Stock in rear using 30wt oil all around.

My rear shocks are modded to slow rebound, no mods to front shocks other than the Integy springs

pickled

I think it's just that young kids would do dumb things that could get someone hurt or their car crushed on the road lol.

eunique

iTrader: (3)

that is true...

so went to LHS carpet drift track for some practice runs today...not without some adjustments first.

I lowered by CS down to 1.81CS with help of 20T on the rear center pulley
FDR 7.66 on 8.5T Xerun motor (110T spur, 26T pinion 64 pitch)

also adjuster FRONT lower shock mount and brought it out ONE position towards the wheel...readjusted the ride height...

Then had some practice with 1 1/2 batteries (5300 an 5000 mAh)
I'm again even happier with the performance...able to take faster drifts..getting better with switchbacks. I'm liking the more layed down shock position of front shocks.

twisted concept

iTrader: (4)

pickle...i was looking in that but i have ideas that im looking into...

and is this the part number that you used (#SAK-58/PK)?

...and does anyone recommend what hopsups are needed to make the front end a little more manageable? (ie: spool vs locked)

eunique

iTrader: (3)

spool is ok for the front but a Front One Way Is better IMHO

pickled

Yep I used the SAK-58/PK as the tension post and used the screws with the DRB-BRIP, it comes with its own bearings but the screw that comes with it is too long.
I originally bought the SAK-59/V2/PK but when the SAK-D324 came out I purchased one of those aswell for the hopped up build I'm going to do eventually. You might want to get yourself some wider angle CVD's I use TRF Double Cardins but they are the expensive option 3racing SAK-X27 SSK's cost half as much and do the same job. Also take apart your factory assembled CVD's reassemble with grease and grind a flat on the pins add some thread lock to the grub screw and you shouldn't have any trouble with them.
Next time can you quote me please (no offence intended), I wasn't sure what you were looking into had to go back and read my posts lol. I think you were referring to my link to uras gang body mods? For future reference and my own pedanticity a spool is a locked diff.

I agree the FOW is the way to go you can get the D3 option part now I think its SAK-D324 but it has the same tube as the SAK-59/V2/PK So it doesn't matter which one you use but I'd go the D3 one as it has the logo on it lol.

I've cut the vents out in the front of my shell I'm getting ready to put an intercooler in it

anyway it's good practice I might get another of these shells eventually and redo these mods

pickled

They need to make this into a 1/10 shell

eunique

iTrader: (3)

whoah!!! that's nice and aggressive looking..specially being murdered out black like that

eunique

iTrader: (3)

by the way...anyone have any issues with the FOW?

it seems the left (driver's side) doesn't freewheel as well...seems to get hung up sometimes. so, sometimes it feels like it pulls so slightly to the left.

i'm just afraid that the answer would be to take it out and clean it completely and oil it back up. it's just a lot of stuff to take out to service it.

pickled

I have issues with hair getting wrapped around the axle between the wheel adapter and the bearing but other than that no issue with the 59, but the correct side for the driver is on the right lol. have a look even that R35 nismo is righthand drive lol

eunique

iTrader: (3)

...ahhh...good point. I'll have to check that out...clean the bearings...check for grime. and maybe replace it since I got some upgrade bearings for it. just been sporadically using them and replacing here and there since I haven't done complete tear down yet....waiting until rest of hopup parts come in

pickled

yeah a tear down is something I'm not looking forward too either but I'm going to need to clean my bearings soon! I have the yeah racing bearing kit that needs to be washed and re-oiled before it's used cause the grease slows the bearings down. I didn't do it to the stock bearings either so they will need to be done and kept to one side for when I build the hopped up chassis. Just got to get some brake cleaner that stuff is expensive I think the good stuff costs about 30 bucks here? I have been using a brush to keep the dirt at bay.

eunique

iTrader: (3)

I got that same set of bearings..and have only used a couple of them on and replace one here and there.
but I will use the full set once all options arrive so I can build my carbon chassis D3.
I did same and not soak the new bearings..just installed them. I'll have to tear down clean them up and reoil them.

SerpentCT4S

iTrader: (95)

Hey guys!

I got my D3 in the mail last week. I started slowly building it since then. I am currently building the shocks.

I have a few questions about them. What weight shock oil should I use for front and rear? Also, do I keep the adjuster ring screwed all the way up or is it better to move it down? If so, how much?