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Old 03-10-2021, 08:13 AM
  #706  
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
Nope thats about right. I just built a fresh kit this week. I think the slop is by design; but you could add 1mm shim in there if you wanted to take out a little play. I think once you run it, and dirt gets up all in there, and things move about, it won't feel as loose...
+1

I also put extra shims on the front arms which are not included in the kit to take out that slop... but every car I've owned will get slop everywhere, and that can be a good thing to help make a car a little more forgiving in the corners... I feel that a super tight car will tend to be more twitchy.

I found some extra slop on the rear pins that need a spacer too:

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Old 03-10-2021, 08:16 AM
  #707  
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Originally Posted by tobamiester
Nope thats about right. I just built a fresh kit this week. I think the slop is by design; but you could add 1mm shim in there if you wanted to take out a little play. I think once you run it, and dirt gets up all in there, and things move about, it won't feel as loose...
Ok. I thought I was building it wrong. Is there a rc company that makes metal washers/shims to replace the plastic ones that are used on the rear hub??
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Old 03-10-2021, 08:45 AM
  #708  
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Originally Posted by jamsandolina
I don't know if that's what I want. I'm just building the car to manual spec. This is my first true competition buggy. The front arms have almost 2mm of back and forth play after assembled. It seems like alot and I've triple checked that I've done everything right. It seems like alot of play in the front arms....more than the back for sure. I know you want everything moving free but with the least amount of play from my understanding. I've always had 1/8 rtr vehicles and chalked up the slop in them as poor quality and bad assembly. I'm kinda confused...and worried I'm not putting this car together right, like there is something I'm doing wrong throughout the entire build. Thank you to everyone for helping with the advice.
Just trust the instructions and build it to spec. Don't overthink things. Stock the 2.0 is amazing. Way better than most in my experience. If you get bored hop in the 8ight Xe thread and see all the custom mods they're having to do for durability.
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Old 03-10-2021, 09:25 AM
  #709  
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I would advise against taking out all of the play in the car, and especially advise against using fuel tubing. You want the car to be as free as possible. We've tested back to back to back several times, a car with the extra play is better than one with little to no play every time.
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Old 03-10-2021, 12:59 PM
  #710  
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Almost done....just need the shocks and electronics to finish up. I needed to stop over thinking everything and just build it. After I started doing that I was less stressed and things moved along more smoothly. It's so pretty, like a work of art. Almost afraid to race it because I suck at driving and it is going to get tortured tested for sure. Again I want to thank everyone for their help and advice.

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Old 03-10-2021, 01:20 PM
  #711  
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Originally Posted by jamsandolina
Almost done....just need the shocks and electronics to finish up. I needed to stop over thinking everything and just build it. After I started doing that I was less stressed and things moved along more smoothly. It's so pretty, like a work of art. Almost afraid to race it because I suck at driving and it is going to get tortured tested for sure. Again I want to thank everyone for their help and advice.
Absolutely, the kits build really well. And on-track, take a solid beating. You really can maximize your fun with these cars at all skill levels.
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Old 03-10-2021, 01:48 PM
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This why I sold my sons 8ight after last season and got another 2.0. On Monday we were out at the track and as my buddy and I watched my 9 year old chuck his 2.0 into a pipe we both went... "it's ok it's a Tekno".
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Old 03-10-2021, 08:49 PM
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Ok guys and gals....what is the deal with the shock collars???? Why in the hell are they so hard to put on and turn. Does anyone have a tip or easier way to get those little buggers on??? My fingers are soo sore just after the front ones and I still need the rear ones to do. I oiled up the orings but that did little to help with turning them once they are on the shock bodies.
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Old 03-10-2021, 09:26 PM
  #714  
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Originally Posted by jamsandolina
Ok guys and gals....what is the deal with the shock collars???? Why in the hell are they so hard to put on and turn. Does anyone have a tip or easier way to get those little buggers on??? My fingers are soo sore just after the front ones and I still need the rear ones to do. I oiled up the orings but that did little to help with turning them once they are on the shock bodies.
This is probably the worst part of the build. Sometimes it can seem like the collar is crooked and not threading but it's an illusion due to the angle of threads.
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Old 03-10-2021, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Furadi
This is probably the worst part of the build. Sometimes it can seem like the collar is crooked and not threading but it's an illusion due to the angle of threads.
I wonder why Tekno didn't give us a measurement from the top of the shock collar to the lip right under the shock cap to give us stock ride height. That way you wouldn't be struggling with the shock collars if it was screwed on too much or too little. I don't think I will be able to adjust for ride height after the shocks are put on the car. They are just too hard to turn. I have to hold the shock body with a wrench just to turn the shock collar.
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Old 03-10-2021, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jamsandolina
Ok guys and gals....what is the deal with the shock collars???? Why in the hell are they so hard to put on and turn. Does anyone have a tip or easier way to get those little buggers on??? My fingers are soo sore just after the front ones and I still need the rear ones to do. I oiled up the orings but that did little to help with turning them once they are on the shock bodies.
I grease up the orings and I also run a bead of grease all the way up the threads to the top.

Originally Posted by jamsandolina
I wonder why Tekno didn't give us a measurement from the top of the shock collar to the lip right under the shock cap to give us stock ride height. That way you wouldn't be struggling with the shock collars if it was screwed on too much or too little. I don't think I will be able to adjust for ride height after the shocks are put on the car. They are just too hard to turn. I have to hold the shock body with a wrench just to turn the shock collar.
We can't really give a measurement because of the varying weights of batteries, motors, and electronics on the market. Batteries alone can differ by more than 150 grams. This is also why we went with a slightly stiffer box stock setup versus what you see most people race with. A light car with heavy springs is safer than a heavy car with light springs.
Another reason to thread them to the top is so that you can mark the collars. I thread mine all the way up and then dremel a groove aligned with the shock cap. This way I can accurately count the number of turns I give the collar when making ride height adjustments.
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Old 03-11-2021, 11:14 AM
  #717  
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run the collars on reverse for like 3-5 threads oiled, then remove and put them on the right way, way smoother.
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Old 03-11-2021, 03:35 PM
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Anyone try the new Protek shorty in the 2.0?
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Old 03-11-2021, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by gfarb
Anyone try the new Protek shorty in the 2.0?
I'm currently running it in our 2.0 truggy. Works great! It's taller than the Protek 5600 pack so your COG will be a little higher, but the overall weight is less.
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Old 03-11-2021, 05:52 PM
  #720  
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3 fresh new sets of premounted wheels and tires. In both red and blue compounds for when I finish my build. Going to do the rear shocks tonight. Taking my time with the build. Almost done!!!!
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