Kyosho v-one rrr
08-03-2005, 02:27 PM
#3496
Jeff, you are so right. rubber tire's...i guess if i can get used to driving a loose car i can drive better with a tight one...geez i thought thats why i got into 1/8th scale off road. btw I will definately pass on the Hello to Joe from you. C.
08-03-2005, 08:03 PM
#3497
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
The rear pully that drives the diff on the brake shaft wears out quick. Replace every 2 meetings or better still replace with metal one (it still wears out!)
The front diff drives undercut if you use the kyosho CVJs. Use the 3 racing oners as they have a bigger dia pin through them. Replace the drives every 3 meetings. The CVJ's also undercut and need replacing. Just check for play
The rear diff drives undercut as above. Replace every 3 meetings
The roll centre inserts wear out every 3 meetings. Replace
The steering balls wear out. Replace with titanium
Change the shock mounting balls for bolts
Cheers
The front diff drives undercut if you use the kyosho CVJs. Use the 3 racing oners as they have a bigger dia pin through them. Replace the drives every 3 meetings. The CVJ's also undercut and need replacing. Just check for play
The rear diff drives undercut as above. Replace every 3 meetings
The roll centre inserts wear out every 3 meetings. Replace
The steering balls wear out. Replace with titanium
Change the shock mounting balls for bolts
Cheers
Sheeesh! Are we talking about the same nitro car? What are you doing to that poor, little, dynamo? 
08-03-2005, 08:25 PM
#3498
I agree with kewdawg, parts do not wear out that quickly. I replace the rear outdrive maybe every 5 races now that use tamiya anti-wear grease. I haven't need to replace the rest of the item ever in ziggy's list.
08-03-2005, 11:56 PM
#3499
Ziggy runs at the Ashby track, tight corners, big undulations (about 15ft between highest and lowest points), very bumpy (car airborne most of the time), a real drivers track, but it is heavy on parts with some cars not even lasting a race without breaking.
He even managed to wear out parts on his FW05 that are still original on mine even though mine is now over 2 years old.
He even managed to wear out parts on his FW05 that are still original on mine even though mine is now over 2 years old.
08-04-2005, 12:01 AM
#3500
Originally Posted by NiMo
Ziggy runs at the Ashby track, tight corners, big undulations (about 15ft between highest and lowest points), very bumpy (car airborne most of the time), a real drivers track, but it is heavy on parts with some cars not even lasting a race without breaking.
He even managed to wear out parts on his FW05 that are still original on mine even though mine is now over 2 years old.
He even managed to wear out parts on his FW05 that are still original on mine even though mine is now over 2 years old.
08-04-2005, 01:09 AM
#3501
Heres the link www.rc-champ.co.jp
They are located in Japan and yeah i can forget all that stuff that was said. I used to go there a lot when i lived in tokyo. I wish i bought it b4 i moved back to australia.
They are located in Japan and yeah i can forget all that stuff that was said. I used to go there a lot when i lived in tokyo. I wish i bought it b4 i moved back to australia.
08-04-2005, 02:31 AM
#3502
Tech Adept
Jeff,
So if i were to consider getting a RRR - what would be the consumable parts to stock up on??
Thanks
So if i were to consider getting a RRR - what would be the consumable parts to stock up on??
Thanks
08-04-2005, 04:08 AM
#3503
adjusting the centax of the RRR
hi Guys!
I bought the RRR and i have placed the centax screw at 0.1 at yesterday i was at the track to break in the engine after 3 tanks of the ground i tryed to place the car on track,but the car were hardly moving but the engine never got up to 60 c.(i know that that adjustment of the centax is ok if the engine were breaked in but is there any problem if i break in the engine with this kind of sentax?????) i think that i can t make the centax more smooth...is that correct? what do you guys suggest?
THANKS A LOT
I bought the RRR and i have placed the centax screw at 0.1 at yesterday i was at the track to break in the engine after 3 tanks of the ground i tryed to place the car on track,but the car were hardly moving but the engine never got up to 60 c.(i know that that adjustment of the centax is ok if the engine were breaked in but is there any problem if i break in the engine with this kind of sentax?????) i think that i can t make the centax more smooth...is that correct? what do you guys suggest?
THANKS A LOT
08-04-2005, 08:01 AM
#3504
Originally Posted by coldfusion
Jeff,
So if i were to consider getting a RRR - what would be the consumable parts to stock up on??
Thanks
So if i were to consider getting a RRR - what would be the consumable parts to stock up on??
Thanks
08-04-2005, 08:24 AM
#3505
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Sheeesh! Are we talking about the same nitro car? What are you doing to that poor, little, dynamo? 
08-04-2005, 10:54 AM
#3506
Originally Posted by ziggy12345
Jas1 also has the same problems, if not worse and he runs at Halifax and Tibshelf. The bits wear out if you drive hard!
That's the only way I drive this car! The car loves it!!! (and so do I! 
) Its like the car dares you to push it harder! I can't ever remember having such a rush from my other nitro sedans. This car just flat-out performs! What's happening? Are they doing a lot of hard crashing? 
08-04-2005, 10:57 AM
#3507
rodneybarrett
rodneybarrett, i sent you a pm.
08-04-2005, 03:06 PM
#3508
This may sound like a dumb question,but Ill ask anyways.Ive been looking at this car a little while now.My question is,what makes this car worth the almost 500.00 price tag?Im talking about the WCE.I mean it looks like a nice car,but what exactly are you paying for?
08-04-2005, 03:32 PM
#3509
Originally Posted by fordman500
This may sound like a dumb question,but Ill ask anyways.Ive been looking at this car a little while now.My question is,what makes this car worth the almost 500.00 price tag?Im talking about the WCE.I mean it looks like a nice car,but what exactly are you paying for?
08-04-2005, 04:07 PM
#3510
Originally Posted by fordman500
This may sound like a dumb question,but Ill ask anyways.Ive been looking at this car a little while now.My question is,what makes this car worth the almost 500.00 price tag?Im talking about the WCE.I mean it looks like a nice car,but what exactly are you paying for?
Seriously, the car is phenomenal! It's lightweight, strong and agile. What more could you ask for? The standard kit usually sells for around $335.00 - I paid 439.00 back in March from rcmushroom. That's only an additional one hundred dollars for all these hop-ups: Front & Rear Universals ($40.00 each.), Carbon F-Shock Stay ($16.00), One-Piece Aluminum Engine Mount ($35.00), Aluminum brake hub ($13.00), FRP Battery Plate ($12.00), FRP Middle Plate ($5.00), Lightweight 1st Gear Housing ($21.00), SP Drive belts (3) (12.00 each), Shielded Bearings (for the steering linkage) ($11.00, $13.00). Even at $480.00, your spending less than you would buying these separately. The best thing is, you'll already have all the components used to win the World Championship (sans the driver ) and place EIGHT spots in the final, for that matter! Hey, listen - I'm definitely not the guy, to promote, spending big money on anything unecessarily but I believe this car is well worth it. Truely a "build and win" touring car.